Sold/Expired 1450L M*g 2-1/4D 8x14670

[Lips]

I got a chance to play with my 1450L last night and your right, it's a throw demon with the 3 inch head. Very happy with this combo... Like you said not as much light as the 100watters but with the tighter filament it has a great hot-spot. I need another one of these in HAIII!


The 700L and 900L have great throw and hot-spots too with the larger head.


I'd like to see Bob G's 1160 over-driven with the Hot Driver on a 3 inch head. I bet it has the tightest spot of all...



Have you confirmed the Torch has different than stock threads on the front...

 

[LuxLuthor]

I'd like to see Bob G's 1160 over-driven with the Hot Driver on a 3 inch head. I bet it has the tightest spot of all...

Have you confirmed the Torch has different than stock threads on the front...

Not sure what Bob G's 1160 setup is.

Yes, I confirmed his custom threading is not stock on the Torch, so FM3H-2 will not thread easily, and I didn't try to force threads. Not sure if Delghi's 3" heads will fit the Torch.

 

[Nebula]

Oh how cool are those things!!! Which one did you get from their link here?

Lux - I just got in and saw your question. My unit is the Craftsman model 50466. I think that it was $74.00, but I picked it up on sale for something in the neighborhood of $50.00. The unit at the web site that looks identical to mine in shape and features is the Sper Scientific High Temperature Infrared Thermometer (12:1). However, Sears has the 8:1 unit so it is a little cheaper. If you have a Sears nearby you should check it out. They seem to go on sale once a month. Good luck. KK

BTW - I should add that this thing is like WD40 in that I continue to find uses for it. I check the heat and a/c registers for temp, car radiator, lighting, you name it. It is well worth the money if you use it for more than batteries.

 

[LuxLuthor]

OK, thanks. I'm looking at this model which appears to do what the other one you mentioned....with a similar high end temp, and a little less accuracy, but mostly at lower temps which I don't care about. $99

I didn't see much on Sears' website to choose from, but they did have that model you mentioned for $50 here. You can't tell what it's temp ranges that it reads or its accuracy, so I'll probably splurge for the above one.

 

[Nebula]

Lux - Yes, that is the one I purchased. I got the same sale price as well. One thing that I like about the one that I have is that I can thumb the on/off for the laser beam. I can use less juice with the beam off but only when I am aiming at a large object. With everything small I turn on the beam for better targeting. Also, I can thumb C anf F in and out. For me one handed use was important as I often find myself checking something that is in a space too tight to turn the unit to a point where I can then see the buttons. With the thumb buttons I just have to remember the location. The screen then lights and I can see my change or temp reading.

If you go with the more expensive model please post your impressions, as I may sell the one I have and go for a more feature ladden model.

Good luck. Kirk

 

[Geologist]

FIVEMEGA - I would be interested in one of these in red or chrome if they were to magically become available again.

Thanks

Geo

 

[LuxLuthor]

Kirk, I did get this one the other day, and it really works well. I think the main feature is increased accuracy and thermal ranges....the 12:1 means it will register a 1" spot from 12" in terms of describing how the cone expands out less than a 8:1

Like you say, I'm using it all over the place. Correlates with all the normal thermometers I use....and also tells me the weather forcast of low temps outside are full of crap. Not only can I see the frost on my car, but this says a much more accurate 25°F rather than the weather prediction of 36°F overnight low.

Lux - Yes, that is the one I purchased. I got the same sale price as well. One thing that I like about the one that I have is that I can thumb the on/off for the laser beam. I can use less juice with the beam off but only when I am aiming at a large object. With everything small I turn on the beam for better targeting. Also, I can thumb C anf F in and out. For me one handed use was important as I often find myself checking something that is in a space too tight to turn the unit to a point where I can then see the buttons. With the thumb buttons I just have to remember the location. The screen then lights and I can see my change or temp reading.

If you go with the more expensive model please post your impressions, as I may sell the one I have and go for a more feature ladden model.

Good luck. Kirk

 

[Nebula]

Lux - Excellent choice on the 12:1 unit with NIST calibration. I really wish that I had done a little more research b/4 I bought mine, as mine has only the 8:1 ratio and I don't believe that it is calibrated. My next one will probably be the same unit you bought.

BTW - I knew that you would find new uses for this gadget. I have not tried testing the outside temps yet. Great idea. I have used it when working on the car. I find that I don't burn my hands as often now.

Cheers.

Kirk

 

[fivemega]

[size=+1]Few more of these available. Please see post #1 for color/number availability.[/size]

 

[LED Zeppelin]

I'll take the red HA if it can be sold with a 4 X 18650 (2S/2P) cell holder.
PM sent.

EDIT: No go, interest withdrawn.

 

[tanasit]

I'll take the last red one.

 

[Quickstrike]

If I am reading the 1st page correctly, there are still a few more Gun metal gray lights available?

Soo...

I could get :

Gun Metal 2-1/4D M*G
DF aluminum reflector
2-bi pin 14.8v bulbs
boro lens

But I would still need a bulb socket of some sort and batteries? Gold Plated sockets are all sold out, so what is a good replacement for this?

After I buy all of these -- simply put the bulb in its socket, install the socket into the light... change out the stock reflector and lens for the more durable versions that I purchased... and load the charged batteries into its respective holder?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am a flashlight noob.

Will the aluminum reflector provide decent enough throw? I noticed the 3" head is almost as much as the light itself.

I want this light to fill the void between my P3D R100 and Sam's Club 35W HID.
I thought the L600M would fit the bill, but the thing is *all* flood and definitely not 600 lumen's.

I really don't want a light that is all throw. I am impressed with the P3D, and am hoping the 1450L will provide similar qualities -- ie. bright hot spot and manageable throw... not a dim hot spot and 120 degree spill like the R600M.




TIA for your help,
-Quickstrike

 

[LuxLuthor]

Oh, this is one of my favorite lights, using those custom Carley lamps that FiveMega had made.

Let me grab GM-Gray HA #10

$145 sent



Then I'll answer Quick's questions

 

[LuxLuthor]

But I would still need a bulb socket of some sort and batteries? Gold Plated sockets are all sold out, so what is a good replacement for this?

See if FiveMega has an extra bipin squirreled away. If not, post a thread "WTB FiveMega bipin bulb holder" and someone will likely contact you. Otherwise you might be able to contact member "Northern Lights" who was making a few of his own custom bulb holders, or another alternative is to try and get a "KIU Bulb holder shown here" An advantage of the KIU is it holds up to the heat of these brighter bulbs. Over time even this 43W Carley bulb can damage the stock plastic Maglite bulb holder (if you use a FiveMega bipin holder), so check it every so often...especially if you keep this bulb on for longer run times.

After I buy all of these -- simply put the bulb in its socket, install the socket into the light... change out the stock reflector and lens for the more durable versions that I purchased... and load the charged batteries into its respective holder?

Yes. But make sure you use PROTECTED 14670 Li-Ion cells, and have a safe way to charge them...that is another hurdle, and you guessed it, more $$$.

Sorry for all the questions, but I am a flashlight noob.

Nothing to apologize for. I was in your exact same position not too long ago.

Will the aluminum reflector provide decent enough throw? I noticed the 3" head is almost as much as the light itself.

I recommend you start out with this reflector. After using the light a while, you can decide if you want a larger reflector. They are more expensive, and they do have benefits, but I think it is good to take this hobby in steps.

I want this light to fill the void between my P3D R100 and Sam's Club 35W HID.
I thought the L600M would fit the bill, but the thing is *all* flood and definitely not 600 lumen's.

I really don't want a light that is all throw. I am impressed with the P3D, and am hoping the 1450L will provide similar qualities -- ie. bright hot spot and manageable throw... not a dim hot spot and 120 degree spill like the R600M.

It will accomplish what you want. I can guarantee that....you may find that you prefer it over the HID from a practical use. The flood beam is one of the general limitations of flat-mounted LED's that cannot be slid in and out of the focal length of a reflector.

 

[Quickstrike]

#11 HA Gun metal gray $135
Bi pin socket $30
Dual function reflector $30
14.8v bulbs x 5 $50
Boro lens $5.50
International shipping $14

Total = $264.50

 

[Action]

I'll take:
#12 HA Gun metal gray for $135
Bi pin 14.8V bulb $10 each
Boro lens $5.50 each
Shipping $10 for 1 set

Total of $160.50

Paypal sent

 

[tanasit]

Is the greyed out #18 HA Red 2-1/4D M*g available????
If so, I'll take it.
Thanks,
Tanasit

 

[fivemega]

Is the greyed out #18 HA Red 2-1/4D M*g available????
If so, I'll take it.
Thanks,
Tanasit

Grayed out items are not available yet (uncomplete) and possibly will be available if I can replace missing parts.

 

[Quickstrike]

I just received my light! It looks and feels like a quality light. The cross machined finish sticks to the hand like sand paper!

I got it working pretty quickly and was amazed by the output. Later on, I showed my dad the light and took out the batter holder to show him what it looks like.
Ever since that, I can't seem to get it working again. The batteries appear to be seated properly, but the light isn't turning on!

I noticed whenever I unscrew the tail cap, the contact point/spring seems to grind quite a bit against the battery holder. As a result, the finish is wearing away from both parts pretty readily.
Is this normal?

Some pics of the scratches:

Also, I noticed in some pictures that the Bi-pin seems to be flush with the piece that it sits in. But if the Bi-pin holder is screwed in all the way, the bi-pin will rest higher.
Should the bi-pin holder be screwed in all the way, or should it be up to where the bi-pin sits flush?

Bi-pin holder screwed all the way down -- Bi-pin elevated:

Bi-pin holder screwed part way -- Bi-pin flush w/ holder:

Thanks!
-Adam.S

 

[LuxLuthor]

Adam, couple answers for you. First, great pictures!!!

Second, your bipin needs to go entirely under the retaining ring....so unscrew the serrated ring, drop the bipin holder inside the nickel tube, then put the ring over the top so that it is holding down the entire top flange of the bipin holder, and tighten it all the way down. If you don't have your bulb focussed in the reflector, then you need to screw out the head, and/or use a cammed stem.

Third, that is a sign that your battery pack is either not sliding inside all the way, or the switch assembly is a bit too far down, or most likely, the spring is "too much" for this mod.

Here let me take a couple pictures of my exact same light and will post them in a minute.....

Edit: First, you can always send this back to FiveMega and have him fix it, but IMHO, the fix is so easy it's not worth the postage back to him.

OK, now that I look at my gray and red versions of this same light....this is one that has a 'bit too much spring.' Note how I cut mine down on the red one vs. new gray. I used a dremel cutter disc to cut through the spring....if you don't have one you may need to use a hacksaw, and then sand down the sharp metal point on the spring. You can also see the parts of the switch/bulb holder which I have a couple that were removed from other lights to see how the bipin holder should go. (click on thumb images)