Are CPFers starting to lose interest in AA based lights?

[JCup]

Not me.

I like my Fenix L2D, and the Jetbeam Jet1 Pro with one AA is comparable to my old 9P. I made the investment in a bunch of Sanyo Eneloops, and a MAHA C-9000. I had a lot of NiMH AA's for cameras, so it was a good switch, my cameras stay ready to use, too. I have cycled a lot of batteries in the past two months, and they work like a champ.

My estimation is that with improved LED efficiencies from here, and with highly miniaturized buck/boost circuits, a rechargeable AA with 2.4 Watt hours delivering a strong output for several hours will be market winner. We should see hi-rel component grade 1.2V power controllers in a 14 mm overmolded packages to drive these new LED's.

I've bought my last CR123 based light, even at the mythical $1 each - it's too much, and they are NOT easy to find in a pinch. I have paid the Walmart ripoff too many times. AA lithium primaries are already cheaper in retail stores, and probably headed lower (I wonder why there is no competition yet for Energizer lithium AA/AAA's).

And the little AAA based Fenix LOD with Eneloops is my new EDC. That's where battery chemistry and semiconductor based miniature lamps are headed, IMHO.

 

[Handlobraesing]

Get a P3D and a spare L1D body (1xAA) and you're good to go

Does it remain fully functional with a single alkaline/NiMH though?

 

[Marduke]

AA lithium primaries are already cheaper in retail stores, and probably headed lower (I wonder why there is no competition yet for Energizer lithium AA/AAA's).

Energizer has a US patent on them for now, there are only a few chinese knockoffs available, and their quality is iffy at best. Good for us places like Sam's Club have them 12 for $20

 

[Marduke]

Does it remain fully functional with a single alkaline/NiMH though?

He was talking about using it with 14500

 

[NA8]

All you really need to know:

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/123burst.htm

Be sure and check out all the links at the bottom of the page.

 

[jerry i h]

Get a P3D and a spare L1D body (1xAA) and you're good to go

Wait...P3D needs 2xCR123, so is only one 14500 going to give enough voltage to properly run the P3D, or are you going to lose the turbo mode, because the circuit thinks low voltage?

 

[Handlobraesing]

He was talking about using it with 14500

It would be one thing if it was able to function with either regular NiMH/alkaline or 14500. 14500 for maximum runtime/performance and NiMH/alkaline for compatibility.

Is there a benefit from using 14500 over CR123 form factor Li-Ion?

 

[Crenshaw]

I would say the slimness. Thats the reason i dont EDC mt P1D on my keys, but i will an LOD or ARC-AAA.

jerry i h, thats what im wondering too. even 4.2v hot of the charger is no where near close to 6v...

Crenshaw

 

[Curious_character]

Wait...P3D needs 2xCR123, so is only one 14500 going to give enough voltage to properly run the P3D, or are you going to lose the turbo mode, because the circuit thinks low voltage?

I tried a hot-off-the-charger 17670 in a P3D, and got a run time of only around 20 minutes on turbo before it dropped into flickering low-battery mode. The P3D quite evidently uses a buck regulator so it isn't really happy with a single Li-ion cell. The P2D, on the other hand, has the same (boost regulator) head as the L1D and L2D, so it does just fine with a single NiMH, two NiMH, one CR-123A, or one 3.0 volt rechargeable cell like a LiFePO4. It also works with a single 3.7 volt Li-ion cell but you lose the lower modes until the voltage drops quite a bit. You really need a buck-boost regulator for good performance and regulation with a single 3.7 volt Li-ion cell because its voltage is both above and below the LED voltage during part of the discharge period. I don't know of any Fenix lights that use one, and not many other lights do. They tend to be more complex and expensive and less efficient than straight boost or buck.

c_c

 

[Brasso]

I'd rather use RCR123's. At only about $8 a piece they are pretty cheap over their life. I keep 2 on the charger and replace as needed. I run a McKinley, a Mediteranean, and a McLux-PD. I've never had one die on me. When it starts getting dim I just switch them out. Now if I could only find a cheap source of RCR2's for my CR2 Pacific.

 

[srvctec]

I ONLY use AA based lights for EDC. I can't see me ever using any other type of light for EDC for reasons already mentioned in this thread. I'm currently EDCing a NDI and don't see replacing it for at least a year, probably more like 2 or more- unless it dies or something. It's the perfect EDC for me- easily adjustable user level (whenever you want as often as you want) and super bright high on a 14500 with the ability to use ANY AA sized battery. Plus, it has strobe if I need it, but I never have to cycle through it. Like someone already said, there's not much they could improve on with this light.

 

[Monocrom]

I ONLY use AA based lights for EDC. I can't see me ever using any other type of light for EDC for reasons already mentioned in this thread. I'm currently EDCing a NDI and don't see replacing it for at least a year, probably more like 2 or more- unless it dies or something. It's the perfect EDC for me- easily adjustable user level (whenever you want as often as you want) and super bright high on a 14500 with the ability to use ANY AA sized battery. Plus, it has strobe if I need it, but I never have to cycle through it. Like someone already said, there's not much they could improve on with this light.

A good pocket-carry clip would be one improvement.

My favorite AA light is the 1watt River Rock model found at Target. It's not the output or runtime, and certainly not the blue tint of the LED. It's the clip that allows this light to be so comfortable to carry.

1xAAA lights like the Fenix L0D are great for key-chains. But 1xAA lights are often too bulky, even in a pants pocket. But stick a good clip on the barrel, and it's a different story.

 

[bigfoot]

I would really like to see Surefire come up with a AA-powered light. Or Arc. Or HDS/Ra.

Maybe it wouldn't have the massive lumens and runtime, but for a good emergency or all-around basic light it would be near perfect.

Barring that, I don't mind using my 123 cell lights, especially those that just take 1 cell (E1L, E1B).

 

[Patriot]

Not loosing interest...just waiting for the next interesting one to come along. I especially like single AA lights. Hopefully we'll see some more high performance ones soon.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I tried a hot-off-the-charger 17670 in a P3D, and got a run time of only around 20 minutes on turbo before it dropped into flickering low-battery mode. The P3D quite evidently uses a buck regulator so it isn't really happy with a single Li-ion cell. The P2D, on the other hand, has the same (boost regulator) head as the L1D and L2D, so it does just fine with a single NiMH, two NiMH, one CR-123A, or one 3.0 volt rechargeable cell like a LiFePO4. It also works with a single 3.7 volt Li-ion cell but you lose the lower modes until the voltage drops quite a bit. You really need a buck-boost regulator for good performance and regulation with a single 3.7 volt Li-ion cell because its voltage is both above and below the LED voltage during part of the discharge period. I don't know of any Fenix lights that use one, and not many other lights do. They tend to be more complex and expensive and less efficient than straight boost or buck.

c_c

P3D's description clearly states that its circuit needs 6.0v to 8.4v, so it's either 2xCR123 or 2XRCR123. But there's quite a lot lights that can run on just one li-ion with great efficiency and excellent flat regulation: Tiablo A8, Dereelight CH1L, Dereelight DBS, Raidfire Spear, SureFire L4 and L5, Lumapower MRV, HDS EDC, Novatac. Not to mention the custom lights.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

I'd rather use RCR123's. At only about $8 a piece they are pretty cheap over their life. I keep 2 on the charger and replace as needed. I run a McKinley, a Mediteranean, and a McLux-PD. I've never had one die on me. When it starts getting dim I just switch them out. Now if I could only find a cheap source of RCR2's for my CR2 Pacific.

In general, it is NOT a good idea to leave them on charger unless the charger is extremely smart. RCR123A can be left outside the charger and will keep their charge for a quite a while.

- Vikas

 

[etc]

I do a lot of work in the field and have made an effort to ensure that nearly all of my electrical field gear uses NiMH rechargeable AA batteries to ensure that I always have batteries for any device I need at the moment without having to carry multiple types of spare batteries.

If it doesn't take AA's, it has to be an incredible piece of equipment with no alternative AA version for me to justify carrying special batteries.

Plus one

 

[LightWalker]

Has anyone tried a P3D with two 14500's?

 

[Monocrom]

How would you get two 14500 cells to fit inside a P3D?

 

[LightWalker]

How would you get two 14500 cells to fit inside a P3D?

You could put the P3D on a L2D body with two 14500's.