One handed AAA super compact light

kaichu dento

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Hi Jake.
Also take a look at the ARC-AAA lights. They are top quality and built to last....
I messed up my right hand the other day and even left handed I have no problem using my Arc's. Easiest one-handed twisty made, not to mention smallest form factor, best knurling and tightest threads! :thumbsup:
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Check out the Leatherman Serac S2. It is like the LD01 but offers only 2 modes and has a clicky switch. It's the only clicky switch light I know of. I wrote a review earlier, check the reviews forum.

+1 it is a great light. I got the S1 on sale for something like 20 bucks and like it too. The S2 is my EDC as I can give it a small tap just like my L2D to move up to high and another to jump back down. I think these lights are over looked here despite they are made by Fenix and have a stainless bezel. Just a great light. Bigger than my E01 however it is EDC not a key chain light for me. For Keychain it is one of those button cell jobs as I only need that for a few seconds at most.

EMS has the S2 listed now on sale for 38.50 and the S1 for 21. So the S2 is cheaper than the LD01 I think and offers a clicky. However there is no Med mode but this has not been an issue due to the fast mode up-down semi press clicky.
 
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p1fiend

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deranged_coder

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Here is a size comparison pic of the Gerber Tempo, Streamlight Microstream 1xAAA and Fenix E01, flanked by some Energizer AAAs:

P1040550.jpg
 

elumen8

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Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Their is one funny thing about the S2 beyond a fast flash if timed just right when going between high and low modes. Sometimes the light will flicker on low or high for a short time when first turned on but other times not. Seems to be time issue too between when it was last turned off. Also a bit of a flicker when the battery is getting low I think. Hard to put a finger on something that happens every now and then. I wonder if this issue is common with LOD type lights. It does not change modes or anything like what I have read about the new SS LD01 in a few defective lights. So far this has not been a show stopper for me as it does not happen all the time. Also a few clicks between modes seems to clear this up. No issue with the S1

Edit.

All my lights are clean and lubed.

Edit again.

My OCD just forced me to clean the contacts of the S2. Looked clean to me however but never did a real good job on the negative contact so used a Q tip again. Come to think of it I have never cleaned my L2D....Or the E01 for that matter. So much for all my lights are clean. However they are lubed.

Edit once again.

Just went on an AAA light cleaning madness adventure. Just finished. I hate what you people have done to me. LOL!
 
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davidt1

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I have a Microstream, but I never use the clicky. I twist the head instead. I never understand the practice of keeping the light so close to your body while turning it on, as you must do in the case of a tail-end clicky switch.

The only lights where a clicky switch makes sense are Zebra lights.
 
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Marduke

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I have a Microstream, but I never use the clicky. I twist the head instead. I never understand the practice of keeping the light so close to your body while turning it on, as you must do in the case of a tail-end clicky switch.

The only lights where a clicky switch makes sense are Zebra lights.

Huh? What is the difference between a twisty and a clicky for how close you hold the light to your body? Don't you have to hold a twisty closer, since it can sometimes require two hands, where a clicky can be done at arm's length?
 

davidt1

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Huh? What is the difference between a twisty and a clicky for how close you hold the light to your body? Don't you have to hold a twisty closer, since it can sometimes require two hands, where a clicky can be done at arm's length?

I never had to use two hands for a twisty. With a twisty, I am able to extend my hand as far away from my body as possible.
 

davidt1

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There is no such thing as a one finger operation. Both methods take a whole hand to operate. The twist method lets the fingers extend comfortably in a natural path along with the hand and arm to allow the user to point the light precisely at the target while keeping the light secured in the hand.
 
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Woods Walker

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I think a twisty would be harder with very cold hands. Next time I am camping this winter will play with my E01 and see.
 
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kaichu dento

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I have a Microstream, but I never use the clicky. I twist the head instead. I never understand the practice of keeping the light so close to your body while turning it on, as you must do in the case of a tail-end clicky switch.

The only lights where a clicky switch makes sense are Zebra lights.
For one thing you don't have to keep the light close to your body to use the clicky, and even if you did, it's the right choice for those who choose it.

What is really hard for me to understand is how people of such advanced intellect are incapable of simple comprehension outside their own range of preferences/habits.
 

Marduke

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There is no such thing as a one finger operation. Both method take a whole hand to operate. The twist method lets the fingers extend comfortably in a natural path along with the hand and arm to allow the user to point the light precisely at the target while keeping the light secured in the hand.

Well, twisty is minimum of 2 fingers, clicky is only ever 1 finger to actuate it. Less fingers holding the light means greater chance of dropping it. If the light is stationary, yes, a single finger can operate a clicky (desk or wall bounce). When holding, the cigar grip means you need a minimum of 3 fingers to actuate a clicky, where any twisty requires 4 minimum.

A twist tailcap means you can't point it where you need it as you turn it on unless you grip the tailcap with your pinky and twist the whole light. The natural position of your hand means the light is turned on when pointed towards your body. Two out of the 3 of the primary modes of actuating a tail switch clicky keeps the light aimed where you need it with no position change.

Both a head twisty vs side clicky both keep the light in the same position, but you have the added option of doing an underhand style activation with your middle finger with a larger Mag style clicky light.

But in the end, using the cigar grip, you can activate a tactical clicky much further away from your body than any sort of twisty, so I don't get how they "have to be kept close to you body when turned on"??
 

carrot

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I'm not sure I understand what we're arguing over here. It all seems pretty trivial to me. Clickies are easier to actuate one handed, but it's not impossible with twisties and twisties are less prone to accidental activation.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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I'm not sure I understand what we're arguing over here. It all seems pretty trivial to me. Clickies are easier to actuate one handed, but it's not impossible with twisties and twisties are less prone to accidental activation.


Arguing over nothing is one of the little joys of the net. :popcorn:

I cleaned the little S2. Flickering issue seems to have stopped for now but who knows. Maybe too much lube covering the contacts. I lubed the thing once a week and feel this was overkill. I will keep an eye on it. Have 4 or 5 little single AAA lights. I am a sucker for them. Cheap battery and now with these updated LEDs they can put out some real light. Before CPF I used a Mag AAA and upgraded to a Garrity AAA and a Dorcy AAA. The Garrity was so much better than the Incan Mag but had nearly zero spill. Throw is ok for a cheapo AAA weak light. The Dorcy is smaller but very sad output. Thinking of using the S1 in the daypack as I like the clicky and runtime with 1XAAA. Going to toss the E01 on my hiking neckchain with firesteel etc. EDC the S2. I wonder what will be next? Like the Stainless LD01 but money is a bit tight these days.
 
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