500 Lumen - AAA Flashlight (photos) - Work In Progress - Part 2

[Diablo_331]

The more I think about it the more the idea of raw aluminum grows on me. As much I want a torpedo, I want a torpedo in copper or brass even more. So I'll take all five. Anodized, copper, raw aluminum, TI, and brass please.

 

[TooManyGizmos]

~

Guy , while holding the light with one hand and the head facing away from you,

and using the index finger and thumb to rotate the ring to turn it on ,

I would like the ring to rotate in a Clock-wise direction , please .

~

 

[DBCstm]

I have the IllumaTi AAA with an Cree XPE emitter, I believe, and when I keep a Li-ion in it (which is technically against the mfg rec I know but I always do anyway) the hi mode is definately a huge jump over the alkaline or nimh, but the trade off is of course that the Ti can't remove the heat and it gets really hot really fast. Which of course I do know will kill the emitter. So I make the attempt to only use high in brief spurts (15-30 seconds) and force myself to stay with medium (which is still brighter than high with the other power cells)

So as much as I'd love the Torpedo in Ti, I do believe at this output level that al is very prudent, fairly thick aluminum at that!

I can see rotational (heat ) fins being added for playing with it, don't laugh I'm sure someone will do it if I don't beat em to it!!!

 

[Got Lumens?]

I have the IllumaTi AAA with an Cree XPE emitter, I believe, and when I keep a Li-ion in it (which is technically against the mfg rec I know but I always do anyway) the hi mode is definately a huge jump over the alkaline or nimh, but the trade off is of course that the Ti can't remove the heat and it gets really hot really fast. Which of course I do know will kill the emitter. So I make the attempt to only use high in brief spurts (15-30 seconds) and force myself to stay with medium (which is still brighter than high with the other power cells)

So as much as I'd love the Torpedo in Ti, I do believe at this output level that al is very prudent, fairly thick aluminum at that!

I can see rotational (heat ) fins being added for playing with it, don't laugh I'm sure someone will do it if I don't beat em to it!!!

+1
I agree about the heat issues with titanium. I just want to add that the torpedo does have built in thermal regulation. So the light will auto step down to the next lower level to prevent excess heat from damaging the LED and components. Having said that . . . Bring on the Ti when you can Guy. Natural, bead blasted, stone washed for me please
GL

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

I have a couple of Orb Raws which are bare aluminum alloy. They started out beautiful, bright and shiny, but oxidized to a stable dull finish, perhaps in part because I put them away for several years and they were not handled regularly. I'm not going to attempt polishing them. They are perfectly functional. I should note that I do live within a half mile of the seacoast. My outdoor rooftop TV antenna did self destruct and shed rotted pieces on the ground, but nothing like that happened to the lights indoors. IMHO the result is not particularly attractive, but does not look shabby, dirty, or corroded. Just a dull unreflective dullish grey-silverish color.

fnj,
Thanks for the feedback on the raw Al.
I'm guessing the combination of salinity and humidity both play a part in the aging process.

Tgwnn, have you thought of a copper body like the limited edition AAA Maratac? Heat transfer would be better than other metals, and it would look great. Many CPF members would still love to get their hands on the Cu AAA Maratac, now relegated to legendary status.

Hi Julian,
Yes, I have. Copper would be a nice option.
I was wondering if it was going to be hard enough to handle the tight tolerances required for the torpedo?
I'd be willing to make a proto and see though.

Anyone has experience on how copper ages when hooked to a set of keys? It could be a nice keychain option to black, although bare alum. would definitely do the trick for that purpose...

Guy:
Are you still considering neutral / High CRI emitter options? If so, any chance you might include some of those in the first few batches?

Cataract,
neutral/high CRI, yes of course.
Not sure if we can make it in batch #1 but will try.
Once we have the production candidate ready, driver & body wise, I will check on the stock availability.
There may be a small fee for the difference in price but other than that, happy to make it happen.

Add another request for bare aluminum. I think that alu looks excellent after a couple of years of pocket wear - it resembles tarnished silver.

FsTop,
Thanks for the feedback.
Bare Alu is an easy option.
When we are ready to take the orders, I'll add that choice.


tgwnn

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

The more I think about it the more the idea of raw aluminum grows on me. As much I want a torpedo, I want a torpedo in copper or brass even more. So I'll take all five. Anodized, copper, raw aluminum, TI, and brass please.

Diablo,
Thanks for the vote of confidence

~
Guy , while holding the light with one hand and the head facing away from you,
and using the index finger and thumb to rotate the ring to turn it on ,
I would like the ring to rotate in a Clock-wise direction , please .
~

TMG,
Thanks for the feedback on that.

I have the IllumaTi AAA with an Cree XPE emitter, I believe, and when I keep a Li-ion in it (which is technically against the mfg rec I know but I always do anyway) the hi mode is definately a huge jump over the alkaline or nimh, but the trade off is of course that the Ti can't remove the heat and it gets really hot really fast. Which of course I do know will kill the emitter. So I make the attempt to only use high in brief spurts (15-30 seconds) and force myself to stay with medium (which is still brighter than high with the other power cells)

So as much as I'd love the Torpedo in Ti, I do believe at this output level that al is very prudent, fairly thick aluminum at that!

I can see rotational (heat ) fins being added for playing with it, don't laugh I'm sure someone will do it if I don't beat em to it!!!

Hi DBC,
Yes, I will need to check on the heat issue, but at least with the auto-thermal step down,
we can limit any overheating, even in Ti.
Fins could be cool :thumbsup:

+1
I agree about the heat issues with titanium. I just want to add that the torpedo does have built in thermal regulation. So the light will auto step down to the next lower level to prevent excess heat from damaging the LED and components. Having said that . . . Bring on the Ti when you can Guy. Natural, bead blasted, stone washed for me please
GL

Thank GL,
Trying to get the Ti on route,
waiting for replies,
then straight to a proto.


tgwnn

 

[stickx]

+1 for copper. It has great heat transfer properties and I like the way it ages - just look at an old penny in you pocket (doesn't turn green like some people think).

I have been following this project from when the first page was posted. Just never had anything to add until now. Waiting patiently on the side lines, but will jump fast whey the torpedo is ready for sale.

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

+1 for copper. It has great heat transfer properties and I like the way it ages - just look at an old penny in you pocket (doesn't turn green like some people think).

I have been following this project from when the first page was posted. Just never had anything to add until now. Waiting patiently on the side lines, but will jump fast whey the torpedo is ready for sale.

Welcome stickx and thanks for posting

Looks like copper is popular!


btw, I have a lux meter on the way,
hopefully I can get some relative readings compared to similar sized lights.
I might just have to make a simple integrating sphere.

tgwnn

p.s.
got to use the Torpedo this evening.
dude see's it and asked where I got it
me says "I kind of invented/created it".
dude says "no seriously, .. I want one"
me just smiles...

and I was only running it on NiMh's.

 

[Cataract]

+1 for copper. It has great heat transfer properties and I like the way it ages - just look at an old penny in you pocket (doesn't turn green like some people think).[...]

Nice, so it gets darker with time, like an oooold thing that's been on your keys for decades (but burns like daylight)... I like that. How about scratch handling?

~

Guy , while holding the light with one hand and the head facing away from you,

and using the index finger and thumb to rotate the ring to turn it on ,

I would like the ring to rotate in a Clock-wise direction , please .

~

I'm pretty sure everyone would agree this makes more sense, even I - a lefty. The original plan was to have a light that would be off when screwing the head in completely.

Although, if there's enough room in the driver, it could be interesting if the direction we turn from ELO to on would dictate the rotation direction...

[...]
Cataract,
neutral/high CRI, yes of course.
Not sure if we can make it in batch #1 but will try.
Once we have the production candidate ready, driver & body wise, I will check on the stock availability.
There may be a small fee for the difference in price but other than that, happy to make it happen.
[...]

Let us know on the price and output difference. I'm definitely buying the regular blalck/red stripe torpedo, but I also really like the idea of having one in high CRI... and I'm definitely starting to like the idea about copper...

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

I'm pretty sure everyone would agree this makes more sense, even I - a lefty. The original plan was to have a light that would be off when screwing the head in completely.

Although, if there's enough room in the driver, it could be interesting if the direction we turn from ELO to on would dictate the rotation direction...


Let us know on the price and output difference. I'm definitely buying the regular blalck/red stripe torpedo, but I also really like the idea of having one in high CRI... and I'm definitely starting to like the idea about copper...

Thanks Cataract,
I gotta admit, I was using it left handed earlier and it was actually pretty cool knowing I could turn either way.
(in my left hand, turning the ring anti-clockwise was just easier so I did)

I have submitted about half the issues back to the lab, still writing up the other half but the multi-direction thing is in there.

Will let you know on the CRI options of course, as they become available.

tgwnn

 

[Helmut.G]

Copper + High CRI

 

[jabe1]

Copper and High CRI here also.

 

[scottyhazzard]

Oooh, copper and High CRI- me three!

 

[JulianP]

Ok, I'll take credit for being the one who first suggested copper in this thread :naughty:

but High CRI is a great combination, making the Torpedo even more unique (more unique? I must be getting really excited about this, because my grammar is slipping).

 

[Got Lumens?]

p.s.
got to use the Torpedo this evening.
dude see's it and asked where I got it
me says "I kind of invented/created it".
dude says "no seriously, .. I want one"
me just smiles...

and I was only running it on NiMh's.

OMG,
That has got to be the first actual Master Card commercial moment that I have ever seen posted.
I would have wanted to be a fly on the wall for that one, thanks for sharing that Guy. ROTFL.
GL

PS You mentioned you want to build an HMIS. I got you covered on that, will talk about that soon.

 

[flashflood]

I might just have to make a simple integrating sphere.

Here's a simple solution that you may find "good enough". There's an iPhone application called Pocket Light Meter that uses the phone's camera as a light sensor. I have no idea how accurate its absolute lux readings are, but it doesn't really matter: its readings are consistent, which is the key. I shine a flashlight at the ceiling of my fully integrating interior bathroom, measure the lux off a piece of white paper on the floor, and multiply by 1.56 to get lumens. The factor of 1.56 is of course specific to the room I'm using. I arrived at this value by measuring several reputable lights with known ANSI lumen ratings, and then computing ANSI lumens divided by measured lux. The ratios were all in the range 1.5 - 1.6, with light sources ranging from 50 to 800 lumens. That's pretty darn consistent, and certainly good enough for my needs.

 

[Got Lumens?]

Here's a simple solution that you may find "good enough". There's an iPhone application called Pocket Light Meter that uses the phone's camera as a light sensor. I have no idea how accurate its absolute lux readings are, but it doesn't really matter: its readings are consistent, which is the key. I shine a flashlight at the ceiling of my fully integrating interior bathroom, measure the lux off a piece of white paper on the floor, and multiply by 1.56 to get lumens. The factor of 1.56 is of course specific to the room I'm using. I arrived at this value by measuring several reputable lights with known ANSI lumen ratings, and then computing ANSI lumens divided by measured lux. The ratios were all in the range 1.5 - 1.6, with light sources ranging from 50 to 800 lumens. That's pretty darn consistent, and certainly good enough for my needs.

That's a very innovative solution. Guy mentioned he is buying a lux meter. They are more accurate, and can also be factory certified for accuracy. There is a key factor that the iPhone doesn't have, and that is photropic filtering. There are errors trying to read the frequencies of light that are output from various LED lights using standard sensors like those you speak of. The factory ratings of any specific LED light can vary by as much as 5-15% between each sample. You can increase the accuracy of your Home Bathroom IS by using some known test lights. When I say known, that means using control lights that have been officially measured for lumen output in an actual sphere. 6-7% on a 60lm light =~4lm, 6-7% on a 500lm light=~33.5lm. I am not trying to say you are wrong, I think your solution is very innovative, but I think that Guy who has invested >$10K and a years worth of time developing a product would want to list the most accurate results, even to the point of just publishing the lux values vs lm values. Just My opinion. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
GL

 

[flashflood]

That's a very innovative solution. Guy mentioned he is buying a lux meter. They are more accurate, and can also be factory certified for accuracy. There is a key factor that the iPhone doesn't have, and that is photropic filtering. There are errors trying to read the frequencies of light that are output from various LED lights using standard sensors like those you speak of. The factory ratings of any specific LED light can vary by as much as 5-15% between each sample. You can increase the accuracy of your Home Bathroom IS by using some known test lights. When I say known, that means using control lights that have been officially measured for lumen output in an actual sphere. 6-7% on a 60lm light =~4lm, 6-7% on a 500lm light=~33.5lm. I am not trying to say you are wrong, I think your solution is very innovative, but I think that Guy who has invested >$10K and a years worth of time developing a product would want to list the most accurate results, even to the point of just publishing the lux values vs lm values. Just My opinion. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
GL

Thanks for the kind words, GL. The nice thing is that if you've already shelled out for an iPhone, Pocket Light Meter is free.

I agree that real equipment (even a true integrating sphere) is great if you've got the coin. Like Festivus, this is for the rest of us.

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Copper + High CRI

Copper and High CRI here also.

Oooh, copper and High CRI- me three!

Ok, I'll take credit for being the one who first suggested copper in this thread :naughty:

but High CRI is a great combination, making the Torpedo even more unique (more unique? I must be getting really excited about this, because my grammar is slipping).

Copper, copper, copper.
Ok, I got it.

I'll check on supplies and see if we can get a proto made in copper too :thumbsup:


JulianP,
Can I humbly offer you the credit for re-invigorating the copper option?
Copper Part 1 goes to scottyhazard unless there was one before that?

In any case, you all get the credit for everything in my book!
I'm very very grateful to have you all share in this journey of creation.

tgwnn

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

OMG,
That has got to be the first actual Master Card commercial moment that I have ever seen posted.
I would have wanted to be a fly on the wall for that one, thanks for sharing that Guy. ROTFL.
GL

PS You mentioned you want to build an HMIS. I got you covered on that, will talk about that soon.

Pleasure is mine.
About the HMIS, thanks.

Here's a simple solution that you may find "good enough". There's an iPhone application called Pocket Light Meter that uses the phone's camera as a light sensor. I have no idea how accurate its absolute lux readings are, but it doesn't really matter: its readings are consistent, which is the key. I shine a flashlight at the ceiling of my fully integrating interior bathroom, measure the lux off a piece of white paper on the floor, and multiply by 1.56 to get lumens. The factor of 1.56 is of course specific to the room I'm using. I arrived at this value by measuring several reputable lights with known ANSI lumen ratings, and then computing ANSI lumens divided by measured lux. The ratios were all in the range 1.5 - 1.6, with light sources ranging from 50 to 800 lumens. That's pretty darn consistent, and certainly good enough for my needs.

flashflood,
Thanks very much.
Actually I have both P.L.M. & another app called MegaMan Luxmeter installed.
I was wondering how accurate either of them were.

Your integrated bathroom approach is very cool.
I'll have to give that a try

That's a very innovative solution. Guy mentioned he is buying a lux meter. They are more accurate, and can also be factory certified for accuracy. There is a key factor that the iPhone doesn't have, and that is photropic filtering. There are errors trying to read the frequencies of light that are output from various LED lights using standard sensors like those you speak of. The factory ratings of any specific LED light can vary by as much as 5-15% between each sample. You can increase the accuracy of your Home Bathroom IS by using some known test lights. When I say known, that means using control lights that have been officially measured for lumen output in an actual sphere. 6-7% on a 60lm light =~4lm, 6-7% on a 500lm light=~33.5lm. I am not trying to say you are wrong, I think your solution is very innovative, but I think that Guy who has invested >$10K and a years worth of time developing a product would want to list the most accurate results, even to the point of just publishing the lux values vs lm values. Just My opinion. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
GL

Thanks GL,
For now, just something to give me an idea so I can keep the manufacturing partners honest,
and make sure we are getting the right power output, etc.
There are alot of factors though:
driver efficiency, led bin, heat dissipation, lens, reflector

which all affect the final lumen output so I'm hoping we can tweak things as much as possible,
without taking any any extra time.

...besides, its just an excuse to buy some more flashlight related "stuff"

it would be great to have a homemade calibrated IS
(especially seeings I'm going to be doing this for the foreseeable future)
but for accurate results I might need to buy a real one.

Thanks for the kind words, GL. The nice thing is that if you've already shelled out for an iPhone, Pocket Light Meter is free.

I agree that real equipment (even a true integrating sphere) is great if you've got the coin. Like Festivus, this is for the rest of us.

Free is always a good start.
I was playing around with those apps last night but I did not yet calibrate my bathroom

tgwnn