HDS Systems EDC # 19

[Mobileschoney]

I have Sapphire in quite a few of my lights. In this case I don't know if there is a right or wrong answer. I guess the sapphire is only 36 more dollars so no real biggie. For me In reading the forums I concluded that the lens is so far recessed that most folks hadn't seen many lenses scratched up. I personally don't carry a light in a pocket with other things and can't imagine how I would scratch or break this lens so i went the standard route.

 

[eraursls1984]

Sapphire would be more scratch resistant, but if they are the same thickness it would crack easier. I don't see see cracks being an issue unless it fell on something that fit inside the bezel, or from very high. I didn't go with Sapphire and I don't have any issues with scratches, but I have 3M magic tape on to smooth out the beam.

 

[Mobileschoney]

Good point on the Sapphire being easier to break, probably wouldn't happen but can. As an example I recently got a Reactor Titan watch. This brand of watch is often used my Law Enforcement and Military folks. Reactor decided to go with K1 hardened high-ceramic glass instead of Sapphire for the crystal. Their reasoning was that although the K1 was somewhat less scratch resistant than Sapphire it was much harder to break than Sapphire. Not sure this equates here but kind of helped in my decision.

 

[redryder]

There was a limited run of 4k XPL lights that had 325+ lmns. I don't remember the CRI but it was <90.

According to HDS this only leaves 1 option: the Nichia 219b 4k 93CRI 200lm emitter. Is this in fact the only option?
I thought I saw someone say something about a higher output 4k NW emitter, maybe that was an older version, idk I think the CRI was lower as well

Thanks for any help/info

 

[Hondo]

Back to the UI differences, the only thing the Tactical lets you do that you can't with the regular Rotary is pre-select between a brightness (default is max) and a flash mode (default is strobe) before turning on, and it only does this as momentary. Now, pure momentary for tactical use is a big feature in itself. If you use the "psuedo momentary" of the regular Rotary, you have to hold it for around a second on for it to go back off, a quick press is interpreted as "turn on, and stay on".

So half the dial gets used for pure momentary function, max travel and anything less than max but less than half way around for the two modes, and they can be any mode you want. So the other half is 12 increments, the full range hitting every other brightness.

You can have pure momentary on the regular Rotary, but then the only way to get out of it is to do a soft reset (turn on, loosen battery tube until it goes out, and re-tighten - and remember you are holding the button to keep it on, or you can open it while off and wait 1 minute to reset). So not something you do on the fly.

Sounds like you want a regular Rotary 200 HCRI with flush button.

Bezel color is personal, but I like silver because I can buff out "indiscretions", and I'm not worried about "giving away my position" with a reflection off my light. I don't use clips, I use a lanyard looped over my belt, suspending it in my pocket, or one of Thor's holsters.

 

[Mobileschoney]

This is exciting, I ordered my Rotary Hi Cri on Tuesday January 3rd and I got a shipping notice today [emoji3]
Only bummer is I had it shipped to where I work in case there was no one home when it arrived. So if it arrives Saturday I won't be able to get it until Tuesday, we are off work Monday and it's a USPS holiday as well.
Patience Grasshopper.

 

[emarkd]

That's awesome, congrats! Super fast shipping right there.

 

[Mobileschoney]

That's awesome, congrats! Super fast shipping right there.

I know right?
Very cool that Henry was able to get this out so quickly, I've missed having a HDS.
Looks like the light will beat my new Thor's Hammer Holster here. I guess that's good, I think I'd rather have the light and no holster rather than the holster and no light.
I may try and figure out how some of you have added a TEC P7 clip on a lanyard, better fire up YouTube soon.

 

[thermal guy]

Many moons ago I bought a kydrex holster for my hds u60xrgt. Had a spot for a spare cell god I loved that thing any idea as to where I can get one of them now? I have checked out different sites but no luck.

 

[Mobileschoney]

Many moons ago I bought a kydrex holster for my hds u60xrgt. Had a spot for a spare cell god I loved that thing any idea as to where I can get one of them now? I have checked out different sites but no luck.

There is a Kydex Holster on the HDS site but I don't believe it has a spare battery holder.

You can get a Thor's Hammer Holster with a spare battery holder. Here's one I had with the spare battery at the bottom. You can also get one on the side. If you already knew all this sorry, I know I didn't quite answer your question.

 

[FroggyTaco]

Both Henry & Hogo don't use Sapphire in any of their lights if that helps the decision any.

My understanding is that it's offered for those whom "demand" it & it's a legacy product from when the beZel was much shallower & the lens was more prone to being scratched.

Ever since the beZel was re-engineered to be much deeper the lens scratching has been an insignificant issue. However will willingly take your sapphire money if you request it.

Thank you. I prefer the flush button option as well for the same reason. I have to be able to tail stand, unless its a big light, then I don't care.

I knew I forgot to ask about something else, thanks for bringing it up.

I was going to ask about the lens. Is it worthwhile to get the sapphire lens? maybe for the long haul, otherwise a glass lens should last nearly a lifetime depending on abuse

Don't go sapphire. There is absolutely no advantage and you get LESS light. The Lens is recessed, it will not get scratched.

The sapphire lens is a lot stronger than the glass lens. In the case it does get scratched, it's much more resistant too. Basically if you want the utmost in durability.

 

[INFRNL]

Sapphire would be more scratch resistant, but if they are the same thickness it would crack easier. I don't see see cracks being an issue unless it fell on something that fit inside the bezel, or from very high. I didn't go with Sapphire and I don't have any issues with scratches, but I have 3M magic tape on to smooth out the beam.

Thank you and the 3m tape thing sounds interesting. Haven't heard of anyone putting tape over the lens. Is the factory beam not quite adequate or am I missing what you are sayoing about smoothing out the beam?

There was a limited run of 4k XPL lights that had 325+ lmns. I don't remember the CRI but it was <90.

Thank you for the clarification

Back to the UI differences, the only thing the Tactical lets you do that you can't with the regular Rotary is pre-select between a brightness (default is max) and a flash mode (default is strobe) before turning on, and it only does this as momentary. Now, pure momentary for tactical use is a big feature in itself. If you use the "psuedo momentary" of the regular Rotary, you have to hold it for around a second on for it to go back off, a quick press is interpreted as "turn on, and stay on".

So half the dial gets used for pure momentary function, max travel and anything less than max but less than half way around for the two modes, and they can be any mode you want. So the other half is 12 increments, the full range hitting every other brightness.

You can have pure momentary on the regular Rotary, but then the only way to get out of it is to do a soft reset (turn on, loosen battery tube until it goes out, and re-tighten - and remember you are holding the button to keep it on, or you can open it while off and wait 1 minute to reset). So not something you do on the fly.

Sounds like you want a regular Rotary 200 HCRI with flush button.

Bezel color is personal, but I like silver because I can buff out "indiscretions", and I'm not worried about "giving away my position" with a reflection off my light. I don't use clips, I use a lanyard looped over my belt, suspending it in my pocket, or one of Thor's holsters.

Thank you for this info. I'll have to read it a couple times (not sure if it's helping or confusing me) I think I will be fine with the standard rotary though but I will reevaluate before placing my order

This is exciting, I ordered my Rotary Hi Cri on Tuesday January 3rd and I got a shipping notice today [emoji3]
Only bummer is I had it shipped to where I work in case there was no one home when it arrived. So if it arrives Saturday I won't be able to get it until Tuesday, we are off work Monday and it's a USPS holiday as well.
Patience Grasshopper.

Congrats! I hope it arrives during work hours, glad they were able to get it out so quickly for you too

Both Henry & Hogo don't use Sapphire in any of their lights if that helps the decision any.

My understanding is that it's offered for those whom "demand" it & it's a legacy product from when the beZel was much shallower & the lens was more prone to being scratched.

Ever since the beZel was re-engineered to be much deeper the lens scratching has been an insignificant issue. However will willingly take your sapphire money if you request it.

Thank you and everyone that posted about the sapphire lens. Sounds like i will just stick to the standard lens. I appreciate everyone that has posted comment/input on all my questions. Looking forward to getting one. This should be like when i bought my first Sebenza

 

[the0dore3524]

Hey, is the cerakote worth it? I read somewhere that it's a lot stronger than anodizing I think. Henry is currently offering the orange for $20. Catch is that it's "blemished seconds only". Can anyone who's gotten one recently in orange cerakote comment on the quality of it?

 

[defbear]

Sigh. I now own five HDS lights. Thank you for the encouragement everyone I got a 325 4000k from Hogo from the special buy-in late last year. Mine has a hint of yellow in the tint. Everything looks gorgeous in it. Earlier I got a rotary with flat button, sapphire lens and 200 hcri. The works! It has the most natural tint. Better than the 4000k. The 200hcri is the one on my hip, in a Hogo holster, every day. All my other lights have a raised button. Just easier to press. The programming remains with the head so swapping battery tubes gives me both types. I will say if I was going to use a HDS in a dangerous situation it would be the 250 tactical. It is utterly foolproof in it's UI. No clicking to get into momentary mode. A slight back off on the dial gives you strobe. It has a tighter, brighter beam than my 325 tactical. You can buy a 250 tactical on Amazon even. Looks like they restocked from Henry recently. And OMG I just got a small Sebenza!

 

[INFRNL]

Hey, is the cerakote worth it? I read somewhere that it's a lot stronger than anodizing I think. Henry is currently offering the orange for $20. Catch is that it's "blemished seconds only". Can anyone who's gotten one recently in orange cerakote comment on the quality of it?

I do not know how cerakote is on a flashlight but i had it on a benchmade knife once and i did not like it. I think it will come off or get damaged a lot easier than the anodizing. For me personally, i would skip it.

Sigh. I now own five HDS lights. Thank you for the encouragement everyone I got a 325 4000k from Hogo from the special buy-in late last year. Mine has a hint of yellow in the tint. Everything looks gorgeous in it. Earlier I got a rotary with flat button, sapphire lens and 200 hcri. The works! It has the most natural tint. Better than the 4000k. The 200hcri is the one on my hip, in a Hogo holster, every day. All my other lights have a raised button. Just easier to press. The programming remains with the head so swapping battery tubes gives me both types. I will say if I was going to use a HDS in a dangerous situation it would be the 250 tactical. It is utterly foolproof in it's UI. No clicking to get into momentary mode. A slight back off on the dial gives you strobe. It has a tighter, brighter beam than my 325 tactical. You can buy a 250 tactical on Amazon even. Looks like they restocked from Henry recently. And OMG I just got a small Sebenza!

Congrats on the new additions. yeah my sebenza is a small as well. Great knives, great quality w/ extreme tolerances. This is the feeling I am getting from these HDS lights, which is why I want to order one. I also appreciate the comparison between both neutral emitters.


EDIT: I just went to cerakote firearms coating site and they claim cerakote from them is double the wear resistance of black oxide. Not sure where anodizing falls in to this (pretty sure the anodizing is quite a bit better than black oxide as well. On a flashlight it would most likely hold up better than a on a knife blade, but for me i will just stick to the anodized finish until I hear something different. Also keep in mind that not all cerakote coatings are created equal. I imagine Henry would only have a high quality coating done on his products though

What would be really nice is a Titanium version, I'd be all over that, although that would probably put us in the $500+ range

 

[eraursls1984]

What would be really nice is a Titanium version, I'd be all over that, although that would probably put us in the $500+ range

There was a small run. They currently sell for around $900. There's one currently available http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...i-Ra-HDS-with-Unique-Wvaltakis-Custom-Ti-Clip

 

[nbp]

Hey, is the cerakote worth it? I read somewhere that it's a lot stronger than anodizing I think. Henry is currently offering the orange for $20. Catch is that it's "blemished seconds only". Can anyone who's gotten one recently in orange cerakote comment on the quality of it?

I got one of the orange blem Rotaries. Personally, I couldn't figure out where the blems were. It looks great to me! Cerakote is not as tough as HA, and is more prone to chipping. That said, it looks cool.

 

[the0dore3524]

I got one of the orange blem Rotaries. Personally, I couldn't figure out where the blems were. It looks great to me! Cerakote is not as tough as HA, and is more prone to chipping. That said, it looks cool.

Haha I see, as usual Henry's idea of "flawed" is of another premise.

On another note, I'm trying to find a new primary light for EDC. I'm currently debating between the BOSS 35 and the Rotary. The way I see it, the Rotary simply has the best interface out there; all the programming in the world doesn't matter much when you have a variable brightness control. The main reason why I would go with the BOSS is because it's simply a boss! The output is insane on it even on one cell and a lot of people seem really happy with theirs in the BOSS 35 thread. I'm leaning toward the BOSS, but the HDS seems much more practical not to mention cheaper. What's your guys' opinion on the two?

 

[Croquette]

I have a couple of Rotaries, several years old, used and abused, and the rubber boots seem to be holding up fine. I prefer raised boots as opposed to the flush design, so I don't know if that makes a difference.

I have three HDS and had a flush tailcap on my rotary that was really crackled.

Took my courage yesterday and changed it for a raised one.

Everything has been fine and now my rotary has a new raised tailcap.

 

[defbear]

For me, the raised button is easier to push than the flat one. I mean how hard is it to push either button lol. I got the flat one one on the 200 hcri just so I could tailstand and use candle mode. To tailstand the raised button version...check out Hogo's Youtube video on the subject.