Not true! There's a lot more of us here than you might think! Just buy a used one instead of one of your new pedals! Really nice to be able to see things onstage where the lights are making shadows that need some lumens to cut through.I'll maybe never order an HDS (too much $ for a musician haha)...
Not true! There's a lot more of us here than you might think! Just buy a used one instead of one of your new pedals! Really nice to be able to see things onstage where the lights are making shadows that need some lumens to cut through.
Why do we start new threads? What's wrong with the old one? As I understand it the forum software used to require it because there was a maximum post count for threads, but that's been gone for a while now and no longer an issue. Or am I wrong?
I am using CRC Technician Grade Di-Electric Grease.
I know the manual says to use non-conductive grease, but I'm not sure of the reasoning behind that. I would think as long as it isn't gooped on so that it's bridging contacts, conductive grease would be desirable.
I know the grease I'm using is correct. In the picture I posted it shows grease on the green part (sorry, I have no idea what that's called), should I be doing this as well?
Anyone know where the pictures of some super abused HDS are located in #18. I think in the 50s pages. I saw last week but couldn't find it again =\
It was a bit daunting, but I did manage to read them all while waiting for my HDS in the last canceled manufacturing change.If nothing else, at 209 pages (!), HDS #18 was probably a bit daunting to new readers. Maybe this'll help keep things fresh with up-to-date info.
The green part of the PCB isn't (under normal operation anyway) making contact with anything, so it won't hurt anything, maybe just collect extra dust over time as you open the head changing batteries. The ring around the outside edge of the PCB is what the tail switch wire makes contact with, so I would think that would be a lubrication point.