10 Amp Mag Tail switch

[zambai]

I've looked everywhere for info on this. I'm looking for a 10 Amp tail switch similar to those on Mac's Torch. Where can I buy one, or how can I make my own?

Also, I need a ligher-duty tail switch, like 2-4 Amps. How are you making these, or where are you buying these?

 

[DonShock]

I've made tailcap switches using these 10A rated switches but my results were nowhere near as nice as Mac's. Just drill a hole and leave the ugly button sticking out. But they work.

 

[LuxLuthor]

That is the Judco 10A switch, that you can also get for $1.50 at Digikey here.

They do make a short and longer pushbutton.

 

[zambai]

Thanks! You guys are awesome. :bow:

One more thing:

When these are usually wired, they're put in series with the batteries between the negative battery terminal and the host tailcap (which I'm also assuming is kept at ground potential), right? ...or am I way off here?

 

[unnerv]

Check with modamag, I picked up some premade ones from him a while back.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Thanks! You guys are awesome. :bow:

One more thing:

When these are usually wired, they're put in series with the batteries between the negative battery terminal and the host tailcap (which I'm also assuming is kept at ground potential), right? ...or am I way off here?

You can put it in the circuit anywhere you want. I put mine in the exact switch location, and make sure it is seated so the rubber switch cover works it like normal...then it is between the positive contacte below switch, and going up to leg of bipin

 

[DonShock]

...When these are usually wired, they're put in series with the batteries between the negative battery terminal and the host tailcap........right? ..........

When I build them I use a piece of PCB that is copper clad on both sides. I just solder a switch wire to each side and sand the copper back from the edges a little on the one side where I install the tail spring.

 

[zambai]

When I build them I use a piece of PCB that is copper clad on both sides. I just solder a switch wire to each side and sand the copper back from the edges a little on the one side where I install the tail spring.

Wow, excellent! :rock: Those shots are worth a thousand words for sure.

Just out of curiosity's sake, are there any other modders out there that use a design that is much different than this? I love seeing creative solutions to any problem.

 

[fivemega]

Same switch mentioned by DonShock and LuxLuthor mounted in "C" size M*g tail cap.

 

[cat]

When I build them I use a piece of PCB that is copper clad on both sides. I just solder a switch wire to each side and sand the copper back from the edges a little on the one side where I install the tail spring.

Thanks, Don. Why the solder around the side that contacts the tail cap, instead of the copper?

 

[DonShock]

Thanks, Don. Why the solder around the side that contacts the tail cap, instead of the copper?

Just trying to improve the contact area. It worked fine without the solder on the tailcap side but I was afraid there might be some uneveness and it might just be making contact on the high spots. I added a thin layer of solder to the rim that I figured would be fairly soft and malleable enough to push away from the high spots and fill in the low ones. I figured it might help maximize the electrical contact between the parts. I don't know for sure if it actually helped but it took all of 30 seconds and couldn't hurt. I guess I'm just a belt AND suspenders type of person.
Actually, I know I am because I wear both at work.

 

[rolling]

I don't know for sure if it actually helped but it took all of 30 seconds and couldn't hurt. I guess I'm just a belt AND suspenders type of person.
Actually, I know I am because I wear both at work.

Pictures?

 

[cat]

Probably because of all the torches in your pockets.