100 watt Mag build

[RickB]

Hi All,

I would like to put together a 100 watt modded Mag. I think I've got a handle on it, but would appreciate a sanity check and any thoughts you might have.

Here's what I have so far:
-Fivemega quad-bored Mag 3D with 12aa-3d holder
-Fivemega 3 inch turbo head
-Triton battery charger and power supply for Triton

What I think I need:
-Osram 64623 bulb(s): It looks like this is a good choice for a 12-cell light, right? Any others worth considering?
-12 NiMH AAs: I think I've read that the CBP 1650s are unavailable; and the new "standard" is a 1800mah cell from ??? Any suggestions?
-Bipin switch/socket adaptor: Should I go with Kiu or are there any alternatives?

Thanks as always for any advice!

-Rick

 

[FILIPPO]

I want to know the same things:naughty:

 

[zehnmm]

RickB: You are on target so far, ihmo.

You do not necessarily need the FM 3 in. head. I am not saying it is not good; on the contrary, while I do not have one, I understand it to be very good. You can use the standard Mag head, where you have substituted a glass lens (such as boro from Lighthound) for the plastic one; moreover, you will need a metal reflector in place of the plastic stock one. I have 3 of FM's cammed/camless reflectors and they are excellent. I have two Mag heads that FM "finned" for heat dissipation. You will get runtimes in the 8 minute area, but runs of just 1 to 2 minutes will cause the light to get very hot.

The 64623 is a great choice. You could also use either the 62138 or the 64625, but with 11 AA's and a dummy. I have gotten my Osram bulbs from bulbconnection.com.

For my setup, I have been using the CBP1650s. The studies done by Silverfox suggest that the Titanium 1800s hold up decently at the higher amp draws, such as 8 and 10 amps. Check the thread at:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/79302

Should I replace my 1650s, I would get these. Possible source: http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1176

I have several of the KIU sockets on the stock Mag switch assembly and heartily recommend that approach.

Best wishes and good luck!

 

[jimjones3630]

These have had a good deal of discussion among others.

http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1176

12 cell bulbs I have played with are Osram 50w 64610, very white and double the run time of 100Wer.

Osram 100w 62138 very white it's the USL bulb.

WA 30W 1166 close to it instantflash point and very white.

Osram 100w 64623 have pushed on the bench to 17v so it's somewhat hard to instantflash it with 12, or 13 cells. It's color is warmer and pleasant.

Drop one cell to 11 and I have direct drived Osram 100w 64625 it instanflashs at or over 13V. Now driving it regulated with AWR's HD and use the 64619 as low bulb with great run time.

Jim

 

[frogs3]

I'm waiting on FM's decision to make another run of bored M@g 3D, but if he does, then I will be putting together a similar light. Before the question, I plan to use the light for some realistic runtimes, like 30 to 45 minutes, but a bit brighter than the M@g85, which with Eneloops goes for nearly 45 min. without burning anything down (bipin, KIU, etc. FM battery holder, stock switch). In short, not a "wow" light. I'm trying to reproduce the output of FM's 1450.

My questions:

What bulbs to consider for the 12AA-3D setup? I may use Eneloops again, as they handle the load well, and don't die in a few weeks if not used. I have a FM Throwmaster 2.5 in. head that makes a nice tight hotspot on the M@g85 and may get another for this light.

I would prefer a 40 watt FM custom Carley bulb or 50 watt Osram if they provide better runtimes.

Second question: should this be powered by Protected Lithiums (with approriate charger, etc.) to get the desired runtime?

I appreciate the advice of the experienced members.

=HAK

 

[jimjones3630]

All the 100w bulbs will draw more than the 5 amp discharge rate and trip the protection circuit in protected C cells.

The 50w Orsam 64610 may pull too many amps at start up and trip the 4.5-5A circuit.

 

[LuxLuthor]

I just got back from my trip today, but you should use the high current Elite 2/3A NiMH cells or Amondo 1800mAh AA NiMH cells to power a 50-100W hotwire.

 

[zehnmm]

Ditto what jimjones3630 and LuxLuthor said.

Also, I am powering my Mag610 + AWR High Temp Hot Driver with Eneloops. This is a great setup. My favorite light. 1300 torch lumens for 20 - 22 min. IMHO, the Eneloops do quite well up to the 6 amp area. If you look at the graphs that Silverfox did, the Eneloops hold at or above 1.1V at the 6 amp discharge level up to about the 1.3 amp hour point. This means that for a 12aa-3d solution, a HD set for 13.0V gets about 13.2V from the batteries for a significant portion of the run.

At the higher discharge rates, such as 8 amps or more, I believe that is too much for the Eneloops.

 

[RickB]

Thanks for the advice. I think I'll order up some Titanium 1800s, a few 64623s, and a socket from Kiu.

I know I don't strictly need to use the 3 inch head, but I have it, so why not? I do actually have some borofloat lenses, and a medium stipple aluminum reflector for the standard head, but the reflector bulb hole is too small for the big Osram bulbs. Anyone have a good source for 2 inch aluminum reflectors with a half-inch or so bore?

-Rick

 

[LuxLuthor]

One thing you will find is that the 623 is an ugly duckling with lots of artifacts. Mac and MadMaxabeam used a medium Orange Peel/stipple to smooth out the pattern, but it becomes an almost useless flood of light....but does put out a crap load of light, and heat if you have a fire that needs starting.

I believe the FM 2.5 Throwmaster heads does the best job at giving a nice spot with minimal artifacts. FM3H-2 is next best.

I have kind of moved to the 64625 or 64458 because they have a whiter color and less artifacts than the 64623.

The 64458 has an axial filament (others are transverse) which really looks nice and can be pushed hard. We are driving it with 16 x 2/3A Elite 1500mAh NiMH (23-24V hot off the charger), and it is incredible. If you use 17 cells, you have to rest them to avoid flashing the bulb.

 

[RickB]

One thing you will find is that the 623 is an ugly duckling with lots of artifacts. Mac and MadMaxabeam used a medium Orange Peel/stipple to smooth out the pattern, but it becomes an almost useless flood of light....but does put out a crap load of light, and heat if you have a fire that needs starting.

I believe the FM 2.5 Throwmaster heads does the best job at giving a nice spot with minimal artifacts. FM3H-2 is next best.

I have both so I will be able to try each one.

I have kind of moved to the 64625 or 64458 because they have a whiter color and less artifacts than the 64623.

The 64458 has an axial filament (others are transverse) which really looks nice and can be pushed hard. We are driving it with 16 x 2/3A Elite 1500mAh NiMH (23-24V hot off the charger), and it is incredible. If you use 17 cells, you have to rest them to avoid flashing the bulb.

I have to say I'm really intrigued by the 64458 "Deathblaster," but I don't have a tri-bored host to fit in the 2/3A cells. Is that necessary? I'm also not quite ready to invest in the equipment for building the packs you are using for it. But I was kind of thinking that a 64458-powered light might be my next build after the 64623.

By the way, does anyone know if there's any rhyme or reason to the Osram bulb part numbers? They seem to be all over the map in terms of voltage, wattage, etc. Is there a magic decoder ring someplace?

-Rick

 

[LuxLuthor]

I don't have a tri-bored host to fit in the 2/3A cells. Is that necessary?

Yeah because the 2/3A diameter is 0.67" (vs. AA diameter of 0.56") three of them are just a couple mm too large to fit in unbored Mag.

By the way, does anyone know if there's any rhyme or reason to the Osram bulb part numbers? They seem to be all over the map in terms of voltage, wattage, etc. Is there a magic decoder ring someplace?

-Rick

Good question.