1D SSC P7 maglite questions

[ipfreeze]

Hello everyone!

I am very new to flashlights and I had a few questions.

I am very sorry if this is a double post and or if the information is already here. I have done searches and such but I couldn't find the "best" solution for a setup of a 1D P7 maglite.

I wanted to build another modded maglite. This time though, while I finish off my incan, I wanted to start researching the LED option.

I really like the form factor of the 1D maglite.
However, I am not sure what kind of "boring" I would need?

I was thinking of getting the SSC P7 D***I bin.
What would be best battery setup for this LED in a 1D host?

I have read of people using 18650 and or 4 AA?
Just looking for the best setup so I can have the host bored.

I would rather go brighter then longer run times.

One more question, what exactly is a driver for? :thinking:

If anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be great!

Thanks!

 

[bigchelis]

I have a 1D P7 on direct drive...You don't need a driver with these because with 4.2v input you are at the ideal power level for these and you will get 2.8A to 3A at the tail.


Here are my results, and I have real out the front lumens as tested by MrGman himself.

1. A 1D P7 direct drive with IMR 18650, IMR C cell, AW 18650 2600mAh = 700ish out the front..., but 650 after 2 or 3 minutes and it will continue to drop untill the cell reaches 3.7v: at which point you have to charge it.


2. You could use a 1C Mag, but it requires boring to accept the IMR C cells. This is a better form factor than even the 1D Mag. It is shorter and thinner handle.

3. If you purchase a 2D Mag and run it with 3 NiMH C cells you can get up to 870 instant peak out the front lumens, but will be at 750 lumens after 3 minutes. This is longer, but you get 100 plus more lumens then using li-on cells.

bigchelis

 

[ipfreeze]

I have a 1D P7 on direct drive...You don't need a driver with these because with 4.2v input you are at the ideal power level for these and you will get 2.8A to 3A at the tail.


Here are my results, and I have real out the front lumens as tested by MrGman himself.

1. A 1D P7 direct drive with IMR 18650, IMR C cell, AW 18650 2600mAh = 700ish out the front..., but 650 after 2 or 3 minutes and it will continue to drop untill the cell reaches 3.7v: at which point you have to charge it.


2. You could use a 1C Mag, but it requires boring to accept the IMR C cells. This is a better form factor than even the 1D Mag. It is shorter and thinner handle.

3. If you purchase a 2D Mag and run it with 3 NiMH C cells you can get up to 870 instant peak out the front lumens, but will be at 750 lumens after 3 minutes. This is longer, but you get 100 plus more lumens then using li-on cells.

bigchelis

Interesting, so, using NiMH would be the best bet.
What kind of NiMH C cells would you recommend?

How long is the run time on your 1D?


Thanks!


Edit: Oh and thanks for your help!

 

[bigchelis]

Interesting, so, using NiMH would be the best bet.
What kind of NiMH C cells would you recommend?

How long is the run time on your 1D?


Thanks!


Edit: Oh and thanks for your help!

I used NiMH "C" Tenergy 5000mAh cells, but when MrGman tested my Mag P7 build with 3 "D" Titanium 12,000 NiMH Cells we got the same 750 out the front lumens. I have an extention I purchased from fivemega that allows me to use my 2D Mag with 3D cells. The 2D with 3 "C" NiMH cells is the best. When the NiMH cells are topped off I get 2.8A at the tail. After 2 hours of non-stop use I get 2.8A at the tail and the cells are at 1.1V NiMH cells are 1.4V fresh off the charger and I re-charge them as soon as I get home. You can discharge them all the way down to .8v. The P7 Mag builds rocklovecpf


I use my 1D and 2D Mag P7's for 2 hours at a time without turning them off. The indoor shooting range I go to has very little light and I use my P7 Mag builds to help light up the range.


bigchelis

 

[ipfreeze]

Is it possible to run two 18650's in parallel in a 1D mag for longer run time?

Thanks for all this great info!

 

[Chodes]

Is it possible to run two 18650's in parallel in a 1D mag for longer run time?

Thanks for all this great info!

Yes , but you would need to bore the tube and need a battery holder.
I don't know of any available 2 x 18650 holders and you'd need a 1.5D approx.
3 x 17670 in a holder with radially bored mag tube is the multi cell option - you'll need a parallel holder and boring for a total of 4800mAH.

Easier choices for direct drive in 1D mag are:
KD D LION 5000mah
AW 26500 IMR 2300mAH
Battery space 26650 4000mAH
Emoli 26700 3000mAH

How long is your 1D? Do you already have it? 2 x AW IMR 26500 fit in approx 1.25D. You'll need a driver to handle around 7.4V input , but should give you around 90 minutes runtime for full power P7.
Or just use MC-E and then you can direct drive at 7.4V.

 

[ipfreeze]

Yes , but you would need to bore the tube and need a battery holder.
I don't know of any available 2 x 18650 holders and you'd need a 1.5D approx.
3 x 17670 in a holder with radially bored mag tube is the multi cell option - you'll need a parallel holder and boring for a total of 4800mAH.

Easier choices for direct drive in 1D mag are:
KD D LION 5000mah
AW 26500 IMR 2300mAH
Battery space 26650 4000mAH
Emoli 26700 3000mAH

How long is your 1D? Do you already have it? 2 x AW IMR 26500 fit in approx 1.25D. You'll need a driver to handle around 7.4V input , but should give you around 90 minutes runtime for full power P7.
Or just use MC-E and then you can direct drive at 7.4V.

Thanks for this great info!
No, I have not gotten my 1D mag yet. I wanted to know what the best cut size and bore type would be, before I had one ordered. Quick question, if the mAH number is higher would that mean it will last longer? If I run batteries in parallel, would I double the mAH number?

I wanted to try to run it DD first as I am new to all of this. I was thinking of using a driver but it started getting confusing after reading so much on these forums about different ones etc... I guess from what I have been reading, the best bet would be to run the 2D with 3 NiMH C cells. Although, I really like the 1D host look.... I wanted to know what the best battery setup for a P7 would be in a 1D, DD. I was looking for highest output and long run time. Not sure if this is even possible, but if it was, I'm sure you guys would know how its done. Then I will order my host and start having some fun

Thank you for all the help and suggestions!
I really appreciate it. These things cost so much and I didn't want to order the wrong thing...

 

[wildstar87]

You also have the option of going with a 1D/3AA adapter, and just use Ni-MH, which you can comfortably get a 2700ma batteries for.

 

[d1337]

Does anyone have any idea where I could buy a 1D body? Are there any good places to buy a complete P7 l D?

 

[tx101]

A 1D Mag P7 is a great way to introduce yourself to modding lights :twothumbs

I used this tutorial to build my first one, look here
This one is a direct drive P7 with a D2Flex board, which will give you multiple
outputs
If you go the li-ion route, member Wquiles can supply you with a 1D Mag host and
the appropriate sleeve for whatever cell your using

Another tutorial by Wquiles is this one, it uses a bored 1D Mag with 4 x AA cells

A more advanced build, would be to use a regulator board, which will maintain a
constant current to the P7. Use StefanFS's tutorial which is found here

 

[ipfreeze]

What would the maximum voltage be for a P7 D***J bin be if over driving?
The 4 AA solution looks like a good one to me. I could run eneloops as my primaries and if stuck somewhere I could always buy AA alks. Do you think the run time would be similar on 4XAA NiMH as compared to the 3C cell NiMH 2D solution?

Thank you!

 

[Chodes]

What would the maximum voltage be for a P7 D***J bin be if over driving?
The 4 AA solution looks like a good one to me. I could run eneloops as my primaries and if stuck somewhere I could always buy AA alks. Do you think the run time would be similar on 4XAA NiMH as compared to the 3C cell NiMH 2D solution?

Thank you!

First:4 x AA Eneloops Direct will likely blow the LED.
That light Will built uses 3 x AAs.

The vf of the LED will make a difference. Resistance of light makes a difference too. Not as important as a high power incan , but it does change the volts that gets to the LED. Unless all my P7s have very similar vf , I found cells are the biggest factor in current to the LED.
I don't know what J bin vf is, should be easy to find out. What you also need to know is how many volts your cells and light will deliver to the LED. Or just build and find out :twothumbs

My experiences:

DD P7 using 3 x AA Eneloops.
2.2A at startup , dropping off to just below 2A for most of the run. Getting about 40 mins close to constant brightness then tapering off.Still usefull light at 1 hour.

With 3 x C Nimh: Expect to be overdriving most LEDs for a little while. Probably 3-3.4A. The cells don't sag much , so the LED gets more volts.
Cells will vary , expect about 2.5A after 1 hour , maybe 1.8-2A after 2 hours.

Using 3 x D 10,00maH cells , similar to the C cells. (I was expecting even lower voltage sag - not so in this case)

AW C 3300maH , KD D LION , AW IMR26500 , any 18650 - will all have varying voltage sag, and result in different current to the LED.

The drop in current over time I have stated is not nearly as noticeable to the humane eye. I can't pick up any of my P7s and judge how full the batts are , I need a meter / charger for that unless the cells are really low.

 

[ipfreeze]

First:4 x AA Eneloops Direct will likely blow the LED.
That light Will built uses 3 x AAs.

The vf of the LED will make a difference. Resistance of light makes a difference too. Not as important as a high power incan , but it does change the volts that gets to the LED. Unless all my P7s have very similar vf , I found cells are the biggest factor in current to the LED.
I don't know what J bin vf is, should be easy to find out. What you also need to know is how many volts your cells and light will deliver to the LED. Or just build and find out :twothumbs

My experiences:

DD P7 using 3 x AA Eneloops.
2.2A at startup , dropping off to just below 2A for most of the run. Getting about 40 mins close to constant brightness then tapering off.Still usefull light at 1 hour.

With 3 x C Nimh: Expect to be overdriving most LEDs for a little while. Probably 3-3.4A. The cells don't sag much , so the LED gets more volts.
Cells will vary , expect about 2.5A after 1 hour , maybe 1.8-2A after 2 hours.

Using 3 x D 10,00maH cells , similar to the C cells. (I was expecting even lower voltage sag - not so in this case)

AW C 3300maH , KD D LION , AW IMR26500 , any 18650 - will all have varying voltage sag, and result in different current to the LED.

The drop in current over time I have stated is not nearly as noticeable to the humane eye. I can't pick up any of my P7s and judge how full the batts are , I need a meter / charger for that unless the cells are really low.

This is just the info I needed!!
Thank you so much!
Now im debating to my self which form factor to get.
1D or 2D.... I wish I had the money to just buy one of each
I sacrifice run time and power with 1D but gain the coolness.
Hmmm.. choices, choices.....

I hope that I am making the right decision in choice of LED.
The SSC P7 is the brightest that can be direct driven in a 1D right?
Sorry, I've been searching these awesome forums and it seems like the P7 is talked about the most. I hope I am on the right track.

Thanks again!

lovecpf

 

[ipfreeze]

Ok, I'm ready to start ordering.
I was wondering if you guys could help me with just a bit more questions please.

My list contains the following:

1. 2D maglite host.

2. Batteries - 3 Nimh C Size 5000mAH
From: (all-battery.com)
Q: Is there a better place?

3. Battery PVC tube
From: (HomeDepot)
Q: What size should I get?

4. SSC P7 DSX0J Bin combo w/heat sink
From: (CPF-Mem)

5. Two-part thermal epoxy
Q: Where do I get this and what is it called?

6. Arctic silver for heat sink to host.
Q: Is this the one used on computer processors? If not, where should I get this?

7. Wire 24 gauge
Q: stranded or solid?
Q: is 24 ga enough?
Q: Any preference on type or brand?

Am I missing anything else?
Ok, I know its not a "bit" more questions after seeing what I am typing.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Drewfus2101]

Ok, I'm ready to start ordering.
I was wondering if you guys could help me with just a bit more questions please.

My list contains the following:

1. 2D maglite host.

2. Batteries - 3 Nimh C Size 5000mAH
From: (all-battery.com)
Q: Is there a better place?
That is as good as anywhere. You can use the coupon code 'tenergydeals' there to save on shipping. I also use Battery Space, but they are just about the same.

3. Battery PVC tube
From: (HomeDepot)
Q: What size should I get?
I had to take a measuring tape in there with me to find the right stuff. Just measure a C and D cell before you go. Make sure the PVC OD is the same as a D cell OD, and the PVC ID is the same as the C cell OD.

4. SSC P7 DSX0J Bin combo w/heat sink
From: (CPF-Mem)

5. Two-part thermal epoxy
Q: Where do I get this and what is it called?
Most guys that sell the emitters will also sell this. That is where I have gotten mine before. Although, I know my local computer specialist store sells it as well. You want Arctic Alumina 2 part adhesive, or Arctic Silver 2 part adhesive.

6. Arctic silver for heat sink to host.
Q: Is this the one used on computer processors? If not, where should I get this? Yes. See above.

7. Wire 24 gauge
Q: stranded or solid?
Q: is 24 ga enough?
Q: Any preference on type or brand?
That sounds too small to me. The local Radioshack wire I use is the solid type (single strand) and as large as I can get through the holes in the heatsink. I bought a variety last time I was in, but I think 20 AWG. The best stuff is the teflon PTFE 22-24 AWG. Can be found on Ebay.

Am I missing anything else?
Ok, I know its not a "bit" more questions after seeing what I am typing.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Your also going to have to remove the anodizing on the Mag tailcap and modify the spring to connect to the back of the batteries. I have used some Naval Jelly (rust remover) to do this and let it sit overnight.

You can cut the stock spring with a diamond cut off wheel and a Dremel.

You'll have to cut the stock switch tower off and solder wires to the stock connectors.

Thats all I can think of.

 

[ipfreeze]

Your also going to have to remove the anodizing on the Mag tailcap and modify the spring to connect to the back of the batteries. I have used some Naval Jelly (rust remover) to do this and let it sit overnight.

You can cut the stock spring with a diamond cut off wheel and a Dremel.

You'll have to cut the stock switch tower off and solder wires to the stock connectors.

Thats all I can think of.

Cool! Thank you so much for your help!
You have just made it easy and clear for me.

This info is awesome!
And thanks to everyone else that has helped me!

Time to start shopping!

 

[tx101]

Might want to add the following to your shopping list

1. UCL glass lens
2. Orange peel metal reflector (makes the beam smoother )

If you can stretch your budget, get a D2Flex board ($25 shipped in the US)

 

[ipfreeze]

Might want to add the following to your shopping list

1. UCL glass lens
2. Orange peel metal reflector (makes the beam smoother )

If you can stretch your budget, get a D2Flex board ($25 shipped in the US)

ahhhh, forgot about those things as well. Thank you!