*2016* ZebraLight SC63 and variants like the SC63w

[Tachead]

Some CPF members and moderators have suggested that battery talk is beginning to go in circles on the regular threads for the new SC600 Mk. III and SC63. I started a new thread so the conversation can continue. Let's take all the battery discussion over there.

Here is the link: ZebraLight's new 12-volt models require an **Unprotected Battery**

We had moved on but, thanks for bringing it up again

The battery compartment size is a feature of these models so, I dont see why we cant talk about it in a thread about these models. If you have an issue, then why dont you just not read the thread? Or skim over the stuff that doesnt interest you? A lot of the recent talk hasnt even been about unprotected vs protected it has been about the exact tolerances for this model(exactly 65mm + or - 0.0mm). A lot of bare cells dont fit either. That and the end cap contact design has been talked about(another new feature on this model). Some important/interesting info has come up through theses discussions. These threads always go in circles you must notice. Are we going to make a sub thread for tint circles, reflector circles, emitter circles, clip circles exc? I dont think your keeping it very light(pun intended) man. Just chill out and skim over what doesnt interest you like the rest of us:thumbsup:

 

[Tachead]

If it does change the CRI it's probably minimally.
Mainly u just see a yellowish-sometimes green shift.
Also, the tint shift between spot and spill is minimized to almost none.

The Cree hi intensity models have a thin coating that keeps the tint from shifting and I'd assume keeps the tint more uniform spot-to-spill-wise.

I don't have any hi intensity emitters myself but quite a few dedomed reflector and optic based lights.

I like yellowy tints myself more than roses for outdoor use as it helps in the fog and with overall contrast discerning mud from rock from roots etc.

I think I am leaning towards liking yellowy tints over rosey/magentas myself too. It will be interesting to see what a 90+ CRI XHP35 will look like. Hopefully ZL will be able to source some and offer us them in one or more of their models.

 

[Tachead]

I know you are only joking! After all, that's what LOL means. Nevertheless, let me toss in my two cents.

My own preference is for neutral tint and high CRI. When another states a different preference, however, saying that they see better under a cool white flashlight, I accept them at their word. The only "fact" that I care about is that they are better at judging how well they see than I am.

I somewhat agree, like I said "I respect personal preferences" but facts are facts. The colour rendering index doesnt lie and NW hi CRI emitters are superior at all the things I stated, its scientifically proven. That said, one can prefer whichever they like; CW or NW, low or hi CRI and there is nothing wrong with either personal preferance.

 

[snowlover91]

We had moved on but, thanks for bringing it up again

The battery compartment size is a feature of these models so, I dont see why we cant talk about it in a thread about these models. If you have an issue, then why dont you just not read the thread? Or skim over the stuff that doesnt interest you? A lot of the recent talk hasnt even been about unprotected vs protected it has been about the exact tolerances for this model(exactly 65mm + or - 0.0mm). A lot of bare cells dont fit either. That and the end cap contact design has been talked about(another new feature on this model). Some important/interesting info has come up through theses discussions. These threads always go in circles you must notice. Are we going to make a sub thread for tint circles, reflector circles, emitter circles, clip circles exc? I dont think your keeping it very light(pun intended) man. Just chill out and skim over what doesnt interest you like the rest of us:thumbsup:

I think the point being made is that we've spent most of this thread discussing the battery more than the light itself and all the pros/cons have been covered thoroughly in this thread already. No need to further continue the discussion here. Also when a mod asks us to stop the discussion regarding something it's generally a good idea to do so.

I for for one am excited about the prospect of ZL potentially offering the 90+ CRI for this model. To my knowledge there is no 18650 light out there putting out 900+ lumens with 90+ CRI from a light like this, unless it's a custom light. To have all this in a light the size of the SC63 would be great. I am also curious how the new design will feel in the hand.. Part of me is skeptical and the other part curious.

 

[SG Hall]

If it does change the CRI it's probably minimally.
Mainly u just see a yellowish-sometimes green shift.
Also, the tint shift between spot and spill is minimized to almost none.

The Cree hi intensity models have a thin coating that keeps the tint from shifting and I'd assume keeps the tint more uniform spot-to-spill-wise.

I don't have any hi intensity emitters myself but quite a few dedomed reflector and optic based lights.

I like yellowy tints myself more than roses for outdoor use as it helps in the fog and with overall contrast discerning mud from rock from roots etc.

Thanks psychbeat. I understand what you mean. I'm assuming it affects it a bit, because high CRI seems to synonymous with NW rather than CW, but they are not the same.

 

[psychbeat]

Thanks psychbeat. I understand what you mean. I'm assuming it affects it a bit, because high CRI seems to synonymous with NW rather than CW, but they are not the same.

Cheers

CRI also doesn't necessarily mean more contrast in my experience.

I have 219a lights & xpg HiCRI lights that don't show as much contrast in wet/fog as my lower CRI dedomed mtg2 for example which is quite yellowy.

I wish we could dedome zebralights more easily as I like the uniform spill to spot and yellowish tint shift (as long as it's not green - ick) but zebralight pressfits their bezels so they are VERY tough to mod.



On another note

I'm down to argue about whether this thread should TALK about batteries ... Just not the batteries themselves

 

[fnsooner]

I dropped my SC62w yesterday, from about six feet and bezel down, straight onto a hard tile floor. I cringed and prepared myself for the worse but thankfully, no broken lens or functioning problems.

This got me to thinking about the new spring configuration and how well it works as a shock absorber. I was pleased when ZebraLight started using a double spring set up a few years ago. Does the new gen lights(SC63 and SC600 MK III) still use a spring on the positive end?

 

[Tachead]

I dropped my SC62w yesterday, from about six feet and bezel down, straight onto a hard tile floor. I cringed and prepared myself for the worse but thankfully, no broken lens or functioning problems.

This got me to thinking about the new spring configuration and how well it works as a shock absorber. I was pleased when ZebraLight started using a double spring set up a few years ago. Does the new gen lights(SC63 and SC600 MK III) still use a spring on the positive end?

Yeah I worry about this too. My guess is the new design will be much less forgiving when it comes to shock. It is definitely an inferior design in my opinion and a step backwards. The only real plus to the new design is slightly shorter body length. Not worth the trade off imo.

The positive end doesnt have much of a spring either. I believe it is a flexible tab of sorts. Maybe somebody could post pics?

 

[lampeDépêche]

Who is able to modify an SC63w by cutting down the tube to accept 18350 cells for me?

I have had the same thought about the H600 line--it would be cool to see what it looks like if shortened for an 18350.

I'm not sure it would be that easy, though--the current designs do not leave a lot of metal to work with for cutting new threads. Might be easier to cut 30mm out of the middle and weld the threaded end back on? But not being a welder myself, I don't know.

 

[Tixx]

I have had the same thought about the H600 line--it would be cool to see what it looks like if shortened for an 18350.

I'm not sure it would be that easy, though--the current designs do not leave a lot of metal to work with for cutting new threads. Might be easier to cut 30mm out of the middle and weld the threaded end back on? But not being a welder myself, I don't know.

Yeah, I was guessing a cut out of the middle would be the way. I hope I can find someone with this ability!

 

[Tachead]

Yeah, I was guessing a cut out of the middle would be the way. I hope I can find someone with this ability!

You just need someone with a band saw or metal lathe and a tig welder really. It would not be that difficult. It would not look pretty however without stripping the electronics and having it re-anodized as the tig welding would burn the anodizing and leave an obvious weld line.

 

[Tixx]

You just need someone with a band saw or metal lathe and a tig welder really. It would not be that difficult. It would not look pretty however without stripping the electronics and having it re-anodized as the tig welding would burn the anodizing and leave an obvious weld line.

I would take that for sure. I may even stop hunting for the perfect pocket edc for a little while.

 

[Fireclaw18]

You just need someone with a band saw or metal lathe and a tig welder really. It would not be that difficult. It would not look pretty however without stripping the electronics and having it re-anodized as the tig welding would burn the anodizing and leave an obvious weld line.

Cut and weld the middle of the battery tube. That way you can cover the weld with something (grip tape, gaffer's tape, a rubber sleeve taken from a cheap flashlight, etc.)

 

[Tixx]

Cut and weld the middle of the battery tube. That way you can cover the weld with something (grip tape, gaffer's tape, a rubber sleeve taken from a cheap flashlight, etc.)

That would be perfect!

 

[RIX TUX]

I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......what does anybody think of the design of sc63? I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.

 

[Fireclaw18]

I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......what does anybody think of the design of sc63? I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.

Needs knurling.

If I were designing it I'd have eliminated the ribs at the edges of the battery tube and the smooth section at the center replaced both with knurling over the entire battery tube except for a strip below clip.

As-is, the SC63 looks like a throwback light.... like an SC60 ate part of an SC62. It looks messy and without knurling, not very functional.

 

[fnsooner]

Yeah I worry about this too. My guess is the new design will be much less forgiving when it comes to shock. It is definitely an inferior design in my opinion and a step backwards. The only real plus to the new design is slightly shorter body length. Not worth the trade off imo.

The positive end doesnt have much of a spring either. I believe it is a flexible tab of sorts. Maybe somebody could post pics?

Good to know that there is still a spring on the positive end of things. This would seem to be the most important spring placement to protect the potted electronics. Can't wait to get mine to check it out.

 

[Tachead]

Needs knurling.

If I were designing it I'd have eliminated the ribs at the edges of the battery tube and the smooth section at the center replaced both with knurling over the entire battery tube except for a strip below clip.

As-is, the SC63 looks like a throwback light.... like an SC60 ate part of an SC62. It looks messy and without knurling, not very functional.

+1

 

[snowlover91]

I am sorry if there already posts about this but too many battery size jabber to look through it all......what does anybody think of the design of sc63? I am not sold but if the emitter is spectacular I may be interested.

At first I didn't like the design however after looking at it more I actually like it and think it might prove quite functional. I'm thinking the smooth and concaved center portion will provide a nice grip while the ribbing on either end will help prevent slipping. The smooth area will also make it easier when clipping it on. The new LED I don't have any experience with but it is rated at 80cri versus the 75cri for the previous emitter. In theory it should be a little bit better than the XM-L2 version but until I receive mine I won't know for sure.

 

[18650]

If we want to be fair, all of this cool white/neutral white, regular/high CRI talk of the past few pages is about as related to the topic as the forbidden protected/unprotected battery talk that was shunted off elsewhere.