Exploring Power Option for M@g623

[supasizefries]

My first mod project is a ROP Hi 2D Mag with the Sandwich Shoppe 2D to 6AA battery adapter. It's an awesome mod but I want to step up to the 623. Maybe I'm being dumb but, my question is, does anyone know if it's possible to mod this adapter to fit the 12 2/3 NiMH cells required for a M@g 623? I'm asking because I'd like to keep costs down if possible and to utilize parts that I already have. I have the rest of the needed components in transit. :naughty:

 

[fivemega]

My first mod project is a ROP Hi 2D Mag with the Sandwich Shoppe 2D to 6AA battery adapter. It's an awesome mod but I want to step up to the 623. Maybe I'm being dumb but, my question is, does anyone know if it's possible to mod this adapter to fit the 12 2/3 NiMH cells required for a M@g 623? I'm asking because I'd like to keep costs down if possible and to utilize parts that I already have. I have the rest of the needed components in transit. :naughty:

Don't even think pulling 9 amps from that holder.
64625 bulb won't fit in standard switch.
Cost of 12 or 13 2/3A are not cheap either.
You also need Boro lens and aluminum reflector.
Lastly, they won't fit in 2D M*g unless tri bore it and this is another cost to above.
So, I'd like to keep costs down is not going to happen.
My suggestion is look for an used and ready to use M*g623 which is usually cheaper than cost of all mentioned parts.

 

[supasizefries]

FM thanks for the advice! Forgive my ignorance about the battery holder. I think I will be picking up one of L. Luthor's battery packs. As far as the other components you have mentioned, I do have the metal reflector and boro lens. I actually have the 2" deep bezel you have made as well (but is for another project). The KIU high temp socket and Osram bulbs are on order. All I need is the tri-bore to be performed.

 

[ANDREAS FERRARI]

As far as I know Lux doesn't make battery packs anymore.If you need a 14.4V pack to fit in a tri-bored 2D you might try one of these.

 

[AKDoug]

Here is one in the market place.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=189335

 

[supasizefries]

As far as I know Lux doesn't make battery packs anymore.If you need a 14.4V pack to fit in a tri-bored 2D you might try one of these.

Thanks for the tip! This might be the option I go with. Can anyone verify if that pack will fit in a tri-bored 2D mag? Also, anyone know what cells they use in that pack?

 

[BSBG]

$19.99? Sounds too good to be true.

 

[supasizefries]

$19.99? Sounds too good to be true.

Shipping from China is more than the pack itself.

 

[Alan B]

Four (not three) A123 cells sleeved in pvc pipe in a 4D M@g might be a better option (if they'll fit, they may be a bit long). Sleeves are most always easier and cheaper than battery holders, especially at these high currents. The A123 cells love the high current.

 

[LuxLuthor]

As far as I know Lux doesn't make battery packs anymore.If you need a 14.4V pack to fit in a tri-bored 2D you might try one of these.

I took a break from the public thread, but I have made a number of packs for people since then. Just don't want incorrect information posted.

 

[ANDREAS FERRARI]

Shipping from China is more than the pack itself.

If you order 1-3 packs the shipping price is still the same.But the quality of these packs are nowhere as reliable as those made by Lux!

Three A123 cells sleeved in pvc pipe in a 3D or 4D M@g might be a better option. Sleeves are most always easier and cheaper than battery holders, especially at these high currents. The A123 cells love the high current.

Can you really run a '623 on only 3 A123-I thought you would need at least 4.I have several laying around(harvested from power tool packs) just waiting to be used when your switch arrives.

I took a break from the public thread, but I have made a number of packs for people since then. Just don't want incorrect information posted.

Glad to hear your making packs again Lux-I won't mine buying a couple after AlanB starts to offer his regulated drives.I was really disappointed when you closed your sales thread.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Can you really run a '623 on only 3 A123-I thought you would need at least 4.I have several laying around(harvested from power tool packs) just waiting to be used when your switch arrives.

That bulb really needs 15-18V to look decent. The 12 or 13 cell NiMH would give a direct drive peak (with resistance losses) gives you that range.

The A123 has the amp power, but its running voltage is only 3.3V which means you need at least 4 of them to get in the neighborhood.

 

[supasizefries]

If you order 1-3 packs the shipping price is still the same.But the quality of these packs are nowhere as reliable as those made by Lux!

Yeah I agree with you. I'm sure they don't go through the same QC process that Lux describes in his thread on battery packs. They also don't say what cells are used in that pack. Plus I'd rather have 13 cells rather than 12.

The A123 cell solution is intriguing but I'd like to stay with the 2D form factor. I already have a host stripped down just awaiting boring.

 

[Alan B]

...

Can you really run a '623 on only 3 A123-I thought you would need at least 4.I have several laying around(harvested from power tool packs) just waiting to be used when your switch arrives.

...

Sorry, right. Four, not three A123. Might be too long for a 4D even.

 

[zehnmm]

For several years now, I have used a Mag623 setup. Spent quite a bit of money, but I get some 8 minutes of retina-searing-light-up-the-night-HID-like joy. FYI, my setup is as follows:
o FM quad-bored 3D Mag
o FM 12aa-3d battery holder
o Titanium 1800 AA batteries
o FM dual function reflector
o Boro lens
o Kiu high temp switch
o Osram 64623 100W bulbs

As others have posted, I limit runtime to no more than 2 minutes. I live out in the country and if I think there is something out there, like a critter that I need to see, I get out this light. If a prowler ever tried to be up to no good around my place, he would get a dose. I imagine that could ruin his day.

Regards.

 

[supasizefries]

For several years now, I have used a Mag623 setup. Spent quite a bit of money, but I get some 8 minutes of retina-searing-light-up-the-night-HID-like joy. FYI, my setup is as follows:
o FM quad-bored 3D Mag
o FM 12aa-3d battery holder
o Titanium 1800 AA batteries
o FM dual function reflector
o Boro lens
o Kiu high temp switch
o Osram 64623 100W bulbs

As others have posted, I limit runtime to no more than 2 minutes. I live out in the country and if I think there is something out there, like a critter that I need to see, I get out this light. If a prowler ever tried to be up to no good around my place, he would get a dose. I imagine that could ruin his day.

Regards.

Thanks for the info. With your power source, how long do you need to rest the batteries before you power up the 623?

 

[zehnmm]

Hi supasizefries. I usually wait at least 30 min. before I run the light. FYI, I would say to run this bulb in direct drive mode, without something like a PWM switch, the voltage should not be over 16.5V. (See LuxLuthor's testing thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179748) His testing shows the bulb blew at 16.9V.

I just went and tested the battery pack voltage a few minutes ago and it was 15.5, after about 1 or 2 minutes of runtime and last charged some 3 or 4 days ago. After charging it can get up to about 16.8 or so, so I have been waiting until it drops. Just use my multimeter to measure the voltage.

Another note is that when I first starting using this light several years ago, I had not been aware of (and I think it was not even out yet...) Lux's testing. I was relying on various posts by the numerous hotwire champions around these forums and info from the now-disgraced-forever AWR. Since the bulb is a 2000 hour bulb, it can take quite a bit of initial voltage. I sure would not try direct drive on a bulb like the 62138. LuxLuthor's tests show it blowing at 15.0V.

Hope all this helps!

Regards.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Hi supasizefries. I usually wait at least 30 min. before I run the light. FYI, I would say to run this bulb in direct drive mode, without something like a PWM switch, the voltage should not be over 16.5V. (See LuxLuthor's testing thread: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179748) His testing shows the bulb blew at 16.9V.

I just went and tested the battery pack voltage a few minutes ago and it was 15.5, after about 1 or 2 minutes of runtime and last charged some 3 or 4 days ago. After charging it can get up to about 16.8 or so, so I have been waiting until it drops. Just use my multimeter to measure the voltage.

Another note is that when I first starting using this light several years ago, I had not been aware of (and I think it was not even out yet...) Lux's testing. I was relying on various posts by the numerous hotwire champions around these forums and info from the now-disgraced-forever AWR. Since the bulb is a 2000 hour bulb, it can take quite a bit of initial voltage. I sure would not try direct drive on a bulb like the 62138. LuxLuthor's tests show it blowing at 15.0V.

Hope all this helps!

Regards.

Guys, keep in mind when using my destructive charts, that my testing platform had virtually no resistance losses (19 milliohms). So if you have a more typical stock Mag setup (switch and springs), that is going to give 175-250milliohms of resistance which acts to lower the voltage seen by the bulb. AW has verified that his Multi-Level Soft Starting Mag Switch has 125 milliohms including all parts, if you are using that.

As electrons pass through various materials there is a certain amount of resistance to their flow depending on many factors.

How much does the resistance in your setup lower the voltage, you ask? Good question!

You use Ohm's Law V=IR (voltage = current x resistance) If you know your stock Mag flashlight has say...200milliohms of resistance (= 0.2 ohms), then you can look at my destructive testing (in sig) to see what my actual measured amps were for a given bulb.

The 64623 has a range of current (amps) drawn by that bulb shown by this chart, but let's pick 10 amps to make the math easy. To find out how many volts are dropped using a 0.2 ohm (Ω is symbol of Ohms) setup running the 64623 bulb at 10 amps, we simply multiply:

V = 10A x 0.2 Ω
V = 2V lost to this amount of resistance.
​

That means that the battery voltage in your stock mag setup could be almost 19V and not flash the 64623 that I show went at 16.9V (I repeated bulb tests at least twice in all but a few cases to verify all numbers).

 

[zehnmm]

LuxLuthor: Well said! Definitely sticky material.

 

[supasizefries]

Well gentleman, I just completed my 2D M@g623 build, and I'm a little giddy school boy right now. lovecpf I'm using a MOP from the Shoppe that I bored out with a Dremel. This thing is just a wall of light. It just illuminates my whole bedroom. This thing is a firestarter indeed!!:wow: It'll light a piece of newspaper just as fast, if not faster than a match. :green: I have to give thanks for all the teachers here on CPF. This place is truly a wealth of flashaholic knowledge.

@ Andreas Ferrari: THANK YOU:thumbsup: for showing me that link to the battery pack!!! Without that, I wouldn't have been able to complete this build. I was hesistant to buy it but I had no choice but to pull the trigger on it when I couldn't find an appropriate power source. The pack works! I will have to report back on longevity of it when I've had a few cycles.

@ Lux: Thanks for all the physics info. Even with resistance fixes to the switch and tail, there is enough of it to prevent insta

I will post pics later. But not much to look at since it's an unassuming looking black 2D Mag. :thumbsup: