$5.50 Ristoft from DE is a GREAT Cree host!
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FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Brento said:
That's with the regular AAA's (I used NiMh's). Quite a bit brighter in both hotspot and spill...plus the hotspot is almost twice as large. I was seeing around 800-900 mA current draw at the battery, and I think the light is direct drive so the LED should be seeing all of that current. The Elly's LED gets about 250 mA to it. I'll have to take apart the pill on one of the Ristofts to verify if it's direct drive.
The 18650 conversion is even brighter yet. A fresh charged battery will show about a 1500 mA draw!
A bit much for the Cree. I use the battery when it's at about 3.9V, which drops the current down to about 1100 mA.
2xTrinity
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think you were referring to the Elly -- I believe they are referring to the Elly with just the emitter swap, not running LiIon. Any LiIon direct drive light will be pushing the LED at its rated maximum current, at least initially.
mmmflashlights
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Hi, total noob to modding here, had a few questions regarding this mod. I have one of these Ristoft lights and I just ordered an 18650 and Cree to use with it (so it'll be a couple weeks before they arrive). The original flashlight isn't bad considering the price, looking at the photos I've seen they seem to vary a little in construction/design (mine's about a year old). Anyway, I've got mine mostly disassembled but I need some help on the tailcap. For starters, I can't even figure out how I should remove the plastic casing - how should this be removed without destroying the whole thing? And once I've gotten it out, does anyone have any specific advice on how to alter it to work with the longer 18650?
Also, my initial plan would just be to do a straight swap of the original LED/star with the Cree. But if I was to add anything, any resistors, to the circuit, what would be advisable to add and what would the benefit be? As I said I'm a noob to this so any suggestions would be welcome. Also, when putting the Cree star in, is there anything that I need to do to ensure that it stays cool, or is it simply a matter of swapping it with the original LED star? On my Ristoft, immediately behind the original LED star there is no visible circuitry, just a blank, flat aluminum surface with two holes drilled into it for the wires that lead to the star. Apparently they're not all designed this way from the way it sounds.
Anyway, any specific advice regarding my questions would be helpful. BTW, the LYCKEBY flashlight tailcap is a working replacement for the Ristoft tailcap. Just by looking at it, it appears as though it may possibly be easier to modify to work with an 18650 compared to the original Ristoft tailcap. It just has a flat metal 'spring', it looks like it may be possible to just bend it back and boar out some of the plastic insert and then bend the spring back in place. I guess it just depends on how much extra length the 18650 is going to require. The switch is not inset like the original tailcap though, so you can't really stand the flashlight on its end with this tailcap.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Also, my initial plan would just be to do a straight swap of the original LED/star with the Cree. But if I was to add anything, any resistors, to the circuit, what would be advisable to add and what would the benefit be? As I said I'm a noob to this so any suggestions would be welcome. Also, when putting the Cree star in, is there anything that I need to do to ensure that it stays cool, or is it simply a matter of swapping it with the original LED star? On my Ristoft, immediately behind the original LED star there is no visible circuitry, just a blank, flat aluminum surface with two holes drilled into it for the wires that lead to the star. Apparently they're not all designed this way from the way it sounds.
Anyway, any specific advice regarding my questions would be helpful. BTW, the LYCKEBY flashlight tailcap is a working replacement for the Ristoft tailcap. Just by looking at it, it appears as though it may possibly be easier to modify to work with an 18650 compared to the original Ristoft tailcap. It just has a flat metal 'spring', it looks like it may be possible to just bend it back and boar out some of the plastic insert and then bend the spring back in place. I guess it just depends on how much extra length the 18650 is going to require. The switch is not inset like the original tailcap though, so you can't really stand the flashlight on its end with this tailcap.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ok, here it goes!
You have your protected 18650 below.
When you replace the LED you must make sure the heat sink is screwed into the head as much as possible. Of course you will want the best focus to be your first priority here.
Next, you will want to cut down the switch holder even with the two tabs on each side.
Mine is 6mm after the cutdown.
Place the switch back into the holder and bend the tab over like this.
Here's another shot of the switch.
This is what the switch looks like placed back into the tail cap. To make sure this does not pop out during battery changes I would recommend epoxying the switch in.
Here is the finished light with the protected 18650 inside and screwed together with no gaps.
You have your protected 18650 below.
When you replace the LED you must make sure the heat sink is screwed into the head as much as possible. Of course you will want the best focus to be your first priority here.
Next, you will want to cut down the switch holder even with the two tabs on each side.
Mine is 6mm after the cutdown.
Place the switch back into the holder and bend the tab over like this.
Here's another shot of the switch.
This is what the switch looks like placed back into the tail cap. To make sure this does not pop out during battery changes I would recommend epoxying the switch in.
Here is the finished light with the protected 18650 inside and screwed together with no gaps.
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FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Looks great in black!! Great work!
I modded my switch before exactly as you've shown here. I'm also using the same XTAR battery! I still can't screw my tailcap all the way down, there's about a 1/16 of an inch gap. My Ristoft is the version that has the module that screws into the body (like the Elly), not the head. There must not be as much room to be had in this version, as I even have the module backed out a few threads. Still works though, just that little bit of gap.
I did order some more, and also one of the DX ones with the red body. Has a compass on the tailcap, not too happy about that. Maybe it's removable. Overall, this is one of the best under-rated mods in my opinion!
I modded my switch before exactly as you've shown here. I'm also using the same XTAR battery! I still can't screw my tailcap all the way down, there's about a 1/16 of an inch gap. My Ristoft is the version that has the module that screws into the body (like the Elly), not the head. There must not be as much room to be had in this version, as I even have the module backed out a few threads. Still works though, just that little bit of gap.
I did order some more, and also one of the DX ones with the red body. Has a compass on the tailcap, not too happy about that. Maybe it's removable. Overall, this is one of the best under-rated mods in my opinion!
FlashCrazy said:
Thanks!
I had some of the old ones with the heat sink that screwed into the body.
On a batch of the Ristoft's I had the reflectors fit really tight around the Cree ring and made a really tight hot spot. I wish they all had that reflector now.
I have something special planned for one of these lights. :devil:
mmmflashlights
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Thanks for taking the time to go into such details with the photos included, greatly appreciated. After seeing your photo, I realized how to take out the switch casing, simply by removing the rubber button and pushing it out (I was worried about tearing the button but obviously it isn't an issue). Anyway, back to the mod - there are some design differences in these lights, for one my LED heatsink assembly is actually threaded into the battery case instead of the head, so the only form of adjusting its depth would be by not threading it in fully. Also, the tailcap appears quite a bit different on mine, for one thing it looks like your tailcap is more deeply threaded into the battery tube vs. mine, and also my switch holder is designed differently than yours. Mine has a conventional spring attached to the switch's clip, though the rest of the switch holder is designed differently as well.
It's confusing to explain the apparent differences and my camera isn't very good with closeups, but it's near to physically impossible after the measurements I just took on mine. With just the switch set into the tailcap with no holder and no tab/battery contact, the measurement to the LED's heatsink from the back of the switch is about 67-68mm. Zero margin to work with even not including the tab on the switch or any holder for the switch. I do think it can (and will
) be done but it will be a very tight fit. If any holder for the switch is used, it will have no more depth than the switch itself so it would just serve to keep it centered basically, and the tab on the switch will be folded flush with the back of the switch. So to summarize, basically just the back of the switch w/no holder or contact/spring puts you at approximately 67mm on my Ristoft. Using my LYCKEBY tailcap with just the switch gave me maybe 1 extra MM.
Talk about cutting it close. Where did you buy your Ristoft? Mine is silver, I'm pretty sure I bought it from Fifthunit and it was at least a year ago I'd say. Maybe the current Ristoft from DE is designed more like yours and would be easier to mod. If anyone can confirm if their recent Ristoft sounds/looks more like mine or Nitroz design, I'd be interested in hearing what you think.
Thanks again Nitroz, hopefully this at least proves helpful for others doing this mod.
A couple other quick questions from my first post - should I be concerned about putting anything on the back of the Cree star to keep it cool, or do I just swap them out and be done with it? And is there anything simple that I could add to the circuit in the positive or negative leads that will improve the performance, or should I simply swap the stars, resolder the leads, and nothing more? I guess if there was anything I'd be concerned about it would be overdriving the Cree, or if something added to the circuit would improve battery life without costing anything in output/brightness. I'm clueless when it comes to these circuits and what would be beneficial though, which is why I ask. Or would a straight swap be a good enough mod right off the bat?
Sorry for the ridiculously long post.....
It's confusing to explain the apparent differences and my camera isn't very good with closeups, but it's near to physically impossible after the measurements I just took on mine. With just the switch set into the tailcap with no holder and no tab/battery contact, the measurement to the LED's heatsink from the back of the switch is about 67-68mm. Zero margin to work with even not including the tab on the switch or any holder for the switch. I do think it can (and will
) be done but it will be a very tight fit. If any holder for the switch is used, it will have no more depth than the switch itself so it would just serve to keep it centered basically, and the tab on the switch will be folded flush with the back of the switch. So to summarize, basically just the back of the switch w/no holder or contact/spring puts you at approximately 67mm on my Ristoft. Using my LYCKEBY tailcap with just the switch gave me maybe 1 extra MM.Talk about cutting it close. Where did you buy your Ristoft? Mine is silver, I'm pretty sure I bought it from Fifthunit and it was at least a year ago I'd say. Maybe the current Ristoft from DE is designed more like yours and would be easier to mod. If anyone can confirm if their recent Ristoft sounds/looks more like mine or Nitroz design, I'd be interested in hearing what you think.
Thanks again Nitroz, hopefully this at least proves helpful for others doing this mod.
A couple other quick questions from my first post - should I be concerned about putting anything on the back of the Cree star to keep it cool, or do I just swap them out and be done with it? And is there anything simple that I could add to the circuit in the positive or negative leads that will improve the performance, or should I simply swap the stars, resolder the leads, and nothing more? I guess if there was anything I'd be concerned about it would be overdriving the Cree, or if something added to the circuit would improve battery life without costing anything in output/brightness. I'm clueless when it comes to these circuits and what would be beneficial though, which is why I ask. Or would a straight swap be a good enough mod right off the bat?
Sorry for the ridiculously long post.....
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FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Mmmflashlights,
Sounds like you have one like my two. I very recently received mine from DX (formerly fifthunit). The LED module screws into the body of the flashlight. I had to back it out a couple of threads to make room for the protected 18650. My switch also had a spring. You have to remove it and grind down the housing like shown above. If yours is different, that might not be possible. Adding a resistor will keep the current to an acceptable level. I just don't fully charge my 18650 (which would be 4.2V)...I keep it around 3.9V, and that allows a current of 1200 mA or so. That's overdriving the Cree just a little, the Cree is rated for 1000 mA continuous so I don't think I'm pushing it. I only use the light for seconds at a time.
Sounds like you have one like my two. I very recently received mine from DX (formerly fifthunit). The LED module screws into the body of the flashlight. I had to back it out a couple of threads to make room for the protected 18650. My switch also had a spring. You have to remove it and grind down the housing like shown above. If yours is different, that might not be possible. Adding a resistor will keep the current to an acceptable level. I just don't fully charge my 18650 (which would be 4.2V)...I keep it around 3.9V, and that allows a current of 1200 mA or so. That's overdriving the Cree just a little, the Cree is rated for 1000 mA continuous so I don't think I'm pushing it. I only use the light for seconds at a time.
mmmflashlights
Enlightened
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Thanks FlashCrazy and thanks again Nitroz. Nitroz mentioned a 2 Watt, 1 ohm resistor so I'll probably go with that if I can locate them cheap. Now we just need variable output and we're set. Regarding the holder for my switch, filing it down in the same way as shown in the above photos won't help on my light, I won't gain any depth doing it that way. I'll figure out a solution one way or another though, it's just going to be a very close fit (the holder probably cannot be used at all in my case, if measurements are correct).
Regarding the holder for my switch, filing it down in the same way as shown in the above photos won't help on my light, I won't gain any depth doing it that way. I'll figure out a solution one way or another though, it's just going to be a very close fit (the holder probably cannot be used at all in my case, if measurements are correct).
thefish
Enlightened
On the latest versions is the pill screwed into the head or into the body? I have an idea for a mod that would work well with this.
FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
The ones I got in from DealExtreme a couple of weeks ago have the pill screwed into the body.
zeeexsixare
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I just got my Ristoft today and it screws into the head. What a pain.
FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
zeeexsixare said:
Where did you order yours from?
zeeexsixare
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DX
FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Arghh!!! I just just ordered some more from them a few days ago. I hope I'll get the same type as I received a couple of weeks ago.
vinsanity286
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Here is how to make room for the protected 18650 in the ritsoft with the heatsink that screws into the body.
First, take out the tail switch assembly and put back only the switch itself, not the plastic holder. You will have to make a litle spacer to keep the switch centered and then glue the whole thing in. Without the switch holder, the switch will be able to come out the back of the tail cap a little. The rubber cover will protrude from the tail cap making tailstanding more dificult(It will still tailstand on a flat surface)
Then unscrew the heatsink. On the bottom side you will see the board with the positive contact. pop out the board and clip it down untill it is small enough to fit inside the heatsink. You will need to isolated it from the heatsink with a small piece of tape. Put a small solder blob on the positive contact, just enough for the battery to make contact.
Assemble the light with the cree star and be amazed at the light output. It really is an awsome light. If only the body was meant for 18650's, it could be alot skinnier.
I also do not use a resistor and even with the fresh cells drawing 1500ma, the cree does not get overly warm when held in hand and moving around. Make sure to put a dab of thermal compound under the star.
First, take out the tail switch assembly and put back only the switch itself, not the plastic holder. You will have to make a litle spacer to keep the switch centered and then glue the whole thing in. Without the switch holder, the switch will be able to come out the back of the tail cap a little. The rubber cover will protrude from the tail cap making tailstanding more dificult(It will still tailstand on a flat surface)
Then unscrew the heatsink. On the bottom side you will see the board with the positive contact. pop out the board and clip it down untill it is small enough to fit inside the heatsink. You will need to isolated it from the heatsink with a small piece of tape. Put a small solder blob on the positive contact, just enough for the battery to make contact.
Assemble the light with the cree star and be amazed at the light output. It really is an awsome light. If only the body was meant for 18650's, it could be alot skinnier.
I also do not use a resistor and even with the fresh cells drawing 1500ma, the cree does not get overly warm when held in hand and moving around. Make sure to put a dab of thermal compound under the star.
moon lander
Enlightened
got another ristoft in the mail today (from dx), again got the wrong kind. it will tail stand but the pill screws into the head. :scowl: bummer. 4 out of 4
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