5 mode # 7135 circuit board

[Lighthouse one]

I just got a 7135 board- and am quite satisfied with the result
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190

Runs at 1 amp with a fresh 18650....

I don't care for strobes- but the UI works great.

I built my own with one of the reflector kits...

should I pot the board? And what would you use?

Still can't figure an easy way to ground the board to the assembly.

I tried it in my huntlight..and it's excellent. I actually like the reverse clicky better- since I can change modes after the light is one- by just pressing the tailcap.

 

[StefanFS]

I have used a number of these boards with D-mini, 3D mags etc. I don't pot or heatsink them since they don't seem to get hot. I checked this before starting to use them in my 3D mag mods.

 

[taschenlampe]

I am also pleased with the one I tried: link

Were the leads soldered to the board at the boards you received from DX?


tl

 

[mjzraz2]

I just got a 7135 board- and am quite satisfied with the result
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190

Runs at 1 amp with a fresh 18650....

I don't care for strobes- but the UI works great.

What is the difference between the strobe and the SOS Mode? How often does it flash on and off? I mean is strobe like multiple on/off many times per second and SOS is like one second on, one second off?

I am looking to put it in a DIY light housing, not a flashlight so I am wondering how/where to attach the battery + and -. Would I solder directly to the bottom? then I would be concerned about a short circuit inside my housing if I didn't cover it somehow.

 

[Lighthouse one]

Raz2 A strobe is fast...like 8 times a second... sos is just that ...---... done slowly. A real waste, but the flashlight makers seem to think we like these gimmicks!
For some reason the two wires are not attached to the driver, so if you don't like soldering real small ...don't get this board! You have to look closely at the photo in the DX site to see where to solder the wires. There are two very small pads to attach the wires to.

 

[alphazeta]

I am looking to put it in a DIY light housing, not a flashlight so I am wondering how/where to attach the battery + and -. Would I solder directly to the bottom? then I would be concerned about a short circuit inside my housing if I didn't cover it somehow.

That's correct, you would solder the input wires directly to the bottom of the pad.

As a practice, I think it's always wise to cover up any exposed wires. You could pot the bare connections with epoxy or even just tape up the entire driver with electrical tape. A lot of times, I personally like to use a hot glue gun to encase the connections. That way it's also waterproof.

Hope that helps.

 

[taschenlampe]

On mine strobe is about 11 flashes per second (11Hz).

SOS is (approximate) "three flashes in one second - one second delay – three flashes,
one second each – one second delay - three flashes in one second – four seconds
delay" then it starts again.


Solder points:




tl

Imageserver: www.imagenetz.de

 

[shakeylegs]

I wanted to make a poor man's mule so I put one of these circuits in a minim@g with a seoul P4 u bin star mounted just under the lens. Driven with 2 energizer lithium e2's the results were underwhelming - something like .35 amp on high. Side by side with my Zebralight, the Zebra was at least twice and perhaps quadruple the brightness of the minim@g mod. I was expecting a constant current regulator but seems it might be a linear regulator.

BTW, Kai seems to be selling the same circuit but he is showing voltage range of 2.6V to 6V rather than DX's 2.6V to 4.5V. Kai's also offers 3 different mode groupings. Does anyone know if these are the same circuit?

 

[StefanFS]

You need to feed the driver more than the leds forward voltage to get good results. The driver do not boost voltage. One LiION cell, three alkalines or NiMH. It does get hot quick on 6 V. Best to keep in the 3.7-4.5 Volt region

Same driver with different programming of the microcontroller, the pic.
Stefan

 

[MatajumotorS]

I also had tried theese boards, it is ok if you like the "memory effect", me not.
But now i am able to reprogram them (it adds brightnes setting modes, strobe setting modes, no memory effect etc...) and make them every time go from first mode and then it comes out "FluPic like" but not so complicated.

 

[johnny13oi]

I also had tried theese boards, it is ok if you like the "memory effect", me not.
But now i am able to reprogram them (it adds brightnes setting modes, strobe setting modes, no memory effect etc...) and make them every time go from first mode and then it comes out "FluPic like" but not so complicated.

How do you reprogram them? Could you show me the diagram on how to make the programmer and where to get the program to program? (if its run on the computer)

 

[MatajumotorS]

How do you reprogram them? Could you show me the diagram on how to make the programmer and where to get the program to program? (if its run on the computer)

www.google.com search for "PIC programmer"
and about the programm, you must write it Yourself

 

[StefanFS]

I also had tried theese boards, it is ok if you like the "memory effect", me not.
But now i am able to reprogram them (it adds brightnes setting modes, strobe setting modes, no memory effect etc...) and make them every time go from first mode and then it comes out "FluPic like" but not so complicated.

You still need to put the pic into the programmer socket. Do you desolder it from the driver? Or do you have a way to program pics when attached to the driver pcb?
Stefan

 

[MatajumotorS]

You still need to put the pic into the programmer socket. Do you desolder it from the driver? Or do you have a way to program pics when attached to the driver pcb?
Stefan

Yes, i desoldered, but there is way to program in circuit too, but then i would need other programmer.

 

[bluecrow76]

I'm mildly familiar with pic microcontrollers. Most of them support in-circuit programming and debugging, meaning you shouldn't have to remove it from the pcb to reprogram it.

I'm curious if this little guy has the code protection turned on. If it doesn't, that means you could download the code that is currently on the microcontroller, "update it" (meaning change the code) and then put it back. I'll try and wire it to my starter kit (if it supports this chip) and see what happens! (Fingers crossed)

MatajumotorS, were you able to reprogram the same chip that was on the board?

 

[MatajumotorS]

I'm mildly familiar with pic microcontrollers. Most of them support in-circuit programming and debugging, meaning you shouldn't have to remove it from the pcb to reprogram it.

I'm curious if this little guy has the code protection turned on. If it doesn't, that means you could download the code that is currently on the microcontroller, "update it" (meaning change the code) and then put it back. I'll try and wire it to my starter kit (if it supports this chip) and see what happens! (Fingers crossed)

MatajumotorS, were you able to reprogram the same chip that was on the board?

I reprogrammed it with my own written code :tinfoil:

 

[PEU]

Its called ICSP (In circuit Serial Programming) and most circuits can be programmed this way with little or no modifications.


Pablo

 

[Lighthouse one]

I an humbled that guys from all over the world can reprogram...and write codes...and I'm lucky to solder the board without ruining it!!

Congratulations guys!!

 

[AlexGT]

Can this fit a Lumapower M1 cree without too much modifications?

Thanks!
AlexGT

 

[StefanFS]

Can this fit a Lumapower M1 cree without too much modifications?

Thanks!
AlexGT

Yes. There's also an 1.2 A version available from KD. You pop the old circuit out and solder the new driver into the original brass contact ring. Then hammer it (delicately) back into the light engine.
Stefan