8AX versus 9AN, your comments please ?

[lightlover]

Thought I'd positively made up my mind on the 8AX, but just as I was about to place my order, started thinking about the 9AN. I've looked at all the specs, and like that the 8AX is re-chargeable, small, but 3-4 times brighter than a 3D Mag-Lite.

Previously I had dismissed the 9AN, mostly because of the (quite small) increase in size, and also for some reason to do with having to replace "both bulbs", even if just one bulb blew. (Is it possible to get around that?) Anyone got any bright comments ?

Lite-lover

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Choose either one. No matter which one you get you will be happy. Most likely your will get the 'bug" and buy more over time. Both of those use the same battery and charger. You can always opt to buy just the other flashlight seperately later.

Brace yourself...the Surefire addiction won't stop there!

 

[lightlover]

Thanks, Flash. I've got the bug already - just double-checking before my Very First SF order ......

Good point about the Batteries / charger !

Lite-lover

 

[JoeyL]

Hello!

I would vote for the 9AN. I have an old 9N and I think it's very versatile. Your point about the replacement of the bulb is possibly a positive point.

If you need a brighter beam all the time, there's no need for the 9N. But if you often need a lower power beam for close up tasks, and the low power beam burns out first, you can replace it with a 5mm white LED. The voltage is perfect, no resistor needed, and it's a simple replacement and solder-in job.

I did it and I really like it.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I have two 9N's and am very interested in the LED replacement idea. I have been fairly unhappy with the beam pattern on the low beam of the 9N (high beam is awsome as usual). Does the LED have a better pattern?

Could you please email me with the appropriate instructions for the replacement of the regular bulb?

By the way, my experience with the two 9N's I have is one bulb failure in about a year (almost right after I got the first one). And it was a high beam. I am betting that there are a ton of lamp modules out there with perfectly good low beams and burnt out high beams. Even so I wouldn't trade this light for any other.

 

[blackz28]

I know that the 9AN comes with the tailcap lock-out (highly recommended by Al

, not sure if this is availble in the 8 series. But there is a new high power bulb in the works for the 8 series. You have a tough decision broh. I hope that SF will come out with a higher power option for the 9 series.
Anyway, I love my 9AN

 

[BKO]

Henry,regarding SF 9N low beam led replacement...here`s what i did.

First, cut off low beam lamp assembly at the base.

Second, drill out remaing lamp holder in base..Its plastic,I used a small die grinder,a drill bit about a 1/4" should work fine..Remove remaining lead`s from low-beam lamp...AH H%ll!!!!..this could go on and on, heres some pic`s.

Notice that the led is shorter than the incandescent.

Before permenantly placing the diode I played around with the focus and mounted it
where it would provide the best output for my uses.

The led is affixed in 1/4" acrilic tubing.

I solderd wire extentions onto the led and
affixed them onto there appropriate polarity.

I used a green led ,as it was the only "loose" one I had around,I belive it`s out of a Photon II.

.

Not as bright as the 20 lumen lamp,but much more durable,And much better beam quality.

Later,Bill

 

[JoeyL]

Hi Folks!

The LED replacement casts a better light than the low power lamp, but it isnt perfect.
BK's info sounds good, but I did it a little differently.
If you take out the low power lamp by snipping the leads where they are welded to the assembly, the old bulb should slide out.
I took the LED, and used a file to remove the plastic flange so it could slide into the reflector easily.
I don't know if it's needed, but I put heat shrink tubing on the LED wires to prevent a short.
One helpful point: check the polarity of the LED before you solder them in. The center contact on the assembly is positive. It wont work in reverse. The good thing is that the voltage is correct. No resistor needed.

this is a view of the light image.
Let me know if I can help. I think you'll like this modification.

 

[Size15's]

Totally Cool!

Do you think lots of people would prefer a red LED?
I think green or turquiose is cool. You can something a bit different from an LED over a bulb. White would be great as a long runtime light for great colour definition of course.

What is the runtime for these custom LED conversions?

BTW,
Yes, I do think the LockOut TailCap is a very significant feature.

Al

 

[Brock]

Hey Al, wasn't Surefire going to start making the replacement lamps with an LED instead of the little one? Or was that a newer model?

 

[BKO]

I forgot to mention,as JoeyL pointed out the base flange of the led need`s to be filed off in order to fit in the reflector assembly.
Al,
Run times?? I hardly have the time to post here, let alone time a batteries (rechargeable no less..everyones results would vary)run time.

Honesty,I can say "I`ve never ran a light just to test the run time",I`ll leave that to you guy`s

But you could do the math.If you want to bother.

Spec`s.
Option 1.Photon II green led,SF b92 pack,I beleive it`s around 1400ma.
Option 2.Same led with Panasonic 3000ma NiMh sub-c cell`s.

Wait a minute, I have done a run time test.
this was on a Niterider 13v NiMh 32 watt bike set-up that had a led "run time left" indication monitor,.It was way off.

Bill

 

[Size15's]

Brock,

Yes, I believe that Mr PK has been working on some proto-types himself. There are some photos on his site (maybe Protoz I ??)

It would be great to have them in a wide range of colours (IR would be great for those that need it?)

A point here:
Would an IR LED be mroe effective then a bulb at illuminating better through a SureFire IR BeamFilter?

Anyway, not a problem I need to worry about right now.

FYI:
Today, I got sunburnt playing tennis. I can't say that very often here in England!

Al