A question for my Fenix Friends

thehappyman

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 9, 2006
Messages
189
I currently own a PI D "Premium" (which I have been very, very happy with) and I am considering purchasing the new Fenix PD10 Ti which is apparently the same light except that it has a slightly brighter beam and a titanium housing.... (and gets rid of the usless stobe and SOS modes)

Any recommendations or suggestions out there ????
I thank you ahead of your responses.

The Happyman
 
Until recently, Fenix was my 1st choice in flashlights. About a month ago, I purchased the Quark AA and discovered how very useful the "moonlight" mode can be. I find the build quality comparable to my Fenix lights, as are the beam quality, efficiency and runtimes. I'm still contemplating a TK30, but for "pocketable" lights, I find the Quarks more flexible.

You can just pretend the strobe and beacon aren't there -- that's what I do. ;)

The rather poor heat conductivity of titanium may also be a consideration if you plan to use the light on high for very long.

Good hunting!
 
If you can find one for the original price, go for it. However, the only place I have seen that has it now is Lighthound.com, and they want $150 for it. At that price, I'd look for another option. I have one and it is a great light. The low is very useful for hiking without losing your night vision. The Turbo is about as bright (if not a little brighter) than my P3D Q5. It does get hot with prolonged use on medium and high, so you might want to consider an aluminum light if you want to run it at the brighter settings for a long duration.
 
take a look at the Quark MiNi's if you're looking for a replacement for your P1D. I love my Ti 123
 
I own a pair of P1Ds and EDCed them for some time long ago; If I were buying something to replace one of them now I would probably go with the Quark Mini as it is smaller, brighter, cheaper, and has a better mode setup and beam profile.

The main reasons I stopped carrying the small 1x123 twisty format is because it's too small to operate with one hand, the batteries aren't widely available/affordable, and a twisty takes longer to operate than a clicky. If you're really looking for something above and beyond the P1D-type lights for EDC, I'd recommend a 1xAA clicky.
 
Quark Ti Mini is a good alternative and not a limited run so still available. Also, can run on RCR123, though not recommended due to thermal concerns.
 
Some other lights to add to your dilemma would be the iTP EOS A1 and A2. These lights, especially the A1 are just fantastic! They are bright, ridiculously cheap and build quality is great. There is also an A1 available in stainless steel which sounds great; I'll let you know what it's like when it arrives in a few days :)

If you wanted to stick with a Fenix, then I'd probably suggest the good old PD20. I've got the older version, not the newer rounder body style ones available now, and it has been a great little light. The only thing I did with it was to replace the switch with a forward clicky switch and it's the near perfect EDC.

Regards,
bedazzLED.
 
If you can find one for the original price, go for it. However, the only place I have seen that has it now is Lighthound.com, and they want $150 for it. At that price, I'd look for another option. I have one and it is a great light. The low is very useful for hiking without losing your night vision. The Turbo is about as bright (if not a little brighter) than my P3D Q5. It does get hot with prolonged use on medium and high, so you might want to consider an aluminum light if you want to run it at the brighter settings for a long duration.

Found one for $87.50 including fast shipping. The conductivity issue never occurred to me until you mentioned it - is the housing solid Titanium or plating ????? I have a solid Titanium watch (a Luminox) and am very impressed with the strength and durability of Titanium over the years. Seeing that you have one, is the LED the same as the PID "premium" or is it really brighter. And is the beam quality good ???? The P1D has an "orange peel" reflector so it's beam has no "visible rings" in it.

And to all you others out there with kind suggestions about other good lights - it's too late now - I purchased the Fenix Titanium light last night.
 
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Found one for $87.50 including fast shipping. The conductivity issue never occurred to me until you mentioned it - is the housing solid Titanium or plating ????? I have a solid Titanium watch (a Luminox) and am very impressed with the strength and durability of Titanium over the years. Seeing that you have one, is the LED the same as the PID "premium" or is it really brighter. And is the beam quality good ???? The P1D has an "orange peel" reflector so it's beam has no "visible rings" in it.

And to all you others out there with kind suggestions about other good lights - it's too late now - I purchased the Fenix Titanium light last night.


Where? Do they have more?
 
Found one for $87.50 including fast shipping. The conductivity issue never occurred to me until you mentioned it - is the housing solid Titanium or plating ????? I have a solid Titanium watch (a Luminox) and am very impressed with the strength and durability of Titanium over the years. Seeing that you have one, is the LED the same as the PID "premium" or is it really brighter. And is the beam quality good ???? The P1D has an "orange peel" reflector so it's beam has no "visible rings" in it.

And to all you others out there with kind suggestions about other good lights - it's too late now - I purchased the Fenix Titanium light last night.

The light is solid titanium, which heatsinks about 1/10 as well as aluminum. The l.e.d. is a R5 bin Cree XP-G (135+ lumens/watt). The P1Ds and P2Ds have only been upgraded to Q5 or R2 bin Cree XR-Es or XP-Es (about 100 lumens/watt). I have a P2D Q5 which is rated at 180 lumens, but it's more like 150 lumens. The PD10 R5 Titan is about as bright as (if not a little brighter than) my P3D Q5 which I remember being tested at 200-205 out the front lumens. 216 lumens seems about right for this light. Low has been my most used setting. However, I don't think it stays at the exact same brightness on low throughout the battery life. I think mine started at about 30 lumens for about a minute, then dimmed down to around 12 lumens. After I used it for longer durations, the low seemed dimmer and at around 7 lumens at which point the brightness stayed constant. The light is pretty easy to turn on with one hand, but if you put it in your pocket, lock it out well because it can turn itself on and get hot quickly. I have found that the easiest way to change levels is to have the head turned to where it is almost on: push down on the head, let go of the head. Repeat these two steps until it's at the level you want. When at the level wanted, keep pressure on the head and twist the head into the on position. I think you'll like this light. The beam pattern works great for the outdoors. It has a tight brighter hotspot inside a large hotspot, with bright spill light. At close range on low, it still lights up the trail and shines a good 30 feet ahead. Due to it's beam pattern, It is useful for close, midrange, and far distances.
 
The light is solid titanium, which heatsinks about 1/10 as well as aluminum. The l.e.d. is a R5 bin Cree XP-G (135+ lumens/watt). The P1Ds and P2Ds have only been upgraded to Q5 or R2 bin Cree XR-Es or XP-Es (about 100 lumens/watt). I have a P2D Q5 which is rated at 180 lumens, but it's more like 150 lumens. The PD10 R5 Titan is about as bright as (if not a little brighter than) my P3D Q5 which I remember being tested at 200-205 out the front lumens. 216 lumens seems about right for this light. Low has been my most used setting. However, I don't think it stays at the exact same brightness on low throughout the battery life. I think mine started at about 30 lumens for about a minute, then dimmed down to around 12 lumens. After I used it for longer durations, the low seemed dimmer and at around 7 lumens at which point the brightness stayed constant. The light is pretty easy to turn on with one hand, but if you put it in your pocket, lock it out well because it can turn itself on and get hot quickly. I have found that the easiest way to change levels is to have the head turned to where it is almost on: push down on the head, let go of the head. Repeat these two steps until it's at the level you want. When at the level wanted, keep pressure on the head and twist the head into the on position. I think you'll like this light. The beam pattern works great for the outdoors. It has a tight brighter hotspot inside a large hotspot, with bright spill light. At close range on low, it still lights up the trail and shines a good 30 feet ahead. Due to it's beam pattern, It is useful for close, midrange, and far distances.

Thanks for all the info - I think I will love it !!!!
> Thehappyman
 
As I rarley keep my flashlights on even "medium" for more than a minute or two I dont think the Titanium Fenix light is going to bother me, heatwise.

But, only time will tell - I will be the first one to complain if I think the light is getting too hot. But I must say that my EDC Fenix P1D "premium" has picked up more than it's share of "knicks" even though it is hard anodized and even though I always keep it in it's black cloth carry case. At this point I just use a black "Sharpie" to cover up the scratches.

So we will see - I am expecting the light to arrive this week. Thank you all for your comments and help.

Thehappyman
 
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i would like to purchase a fenix pd10 titan. does anyone know where i can? thx in advance!
 
The Fenix PD10 Ti arrived and I just love it - there are a few rings in the beam but it's NOTICEABLY brighter than my P1D Premium (though they are the same size) and the case is a work of art !!!!!!
 
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