A20 EDC - SSC P7 3 mode MOD!!

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w0w! that p7 is sweet! the grass just goes BLING! :)... thanks 4 sharing
 
whta is the originalboard diameter?
how is the switch is holding up?

TNX, kostas

A 17mm board can be squeezed in .. Switch should be ok .

Info update :

Lo - 0.12A current draw
Med - 0.64A current draw
Hi - 1.76A current draw
Batt = AW RCR123A 3.7v
 
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I wonder if that driver could supply full 2.8A with something beefier like an IMR?
 
I wonder if that driver could supply full 2.8A with something beefier like an IMR?

No , its a 2500mAh driver , its limited to 2500mA .

With a CR123A 3.7v I dont think you would see over 2A ..

1.7 to 1.8A is the CR123A region . With this LED .

This is the same combo I had in a P60 pill , driven by 18650 , and it was driven around 1.8A , the 18650 IMR took that close to 2A .

+ This is an excellent level of performance for such a small light , it easily blows away my best R2's and leaves them in the dust for light output on High . It cant compete for throw , but it was never intended to do so , I just wanted a true pocket rocket that wont melt on Hi .


The only driver I have used that can do 2.8A with a single 18650 is the one in my MTE .. Sure wish I could buy some of those ..
My 2.4A sandwich driver does 2.4A , and I hope the next one will do 2.6A [ 1.2 + 1.4 ]
 
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FYI, a CR123A isn't 3.7V, even open circuit. OCV is closer to 3.2V. Under a 1A load, it is probably closer to 2.5V-2.75V.

Does that driver use the usual AMC7135 LDO regulator? If so, I see 8 of them, which would mean 2.8A out. An IMR could help. Or the reason the board outputs 2.5A instead of 2.8A could be that the PWR controller IC is programmed that way for High mode. Or the board uses a different LDO regulator. Or it's the usual lousy spec'ing of these cheap Chinese drivers.

Assuming an 8xAMC7135-based driver, Vbatt > Vf + AMC7135 drop (=0.12V) for the board to run in full regulation. Let's assume Vf=3.50V (the high end of an I voltage bin P7 and the low end of a J voltage bin P7). Then, Vbatt > ~3.62V. Should be easily achievable using one Li-ion for most of its run time. However, if you are unlucky, and the P7 Vf is 3.75V (high end for a J-bin), then Vbatt > ~3.9V. Now, voltage sag could get you and an IMR, with its lower internal resistance, could help.

If you can put your DMM probes across the P7's terminals while under load to measure Vf, that would help narrow the possibilities.
 
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FYI, a CR123A isn't 3.7V, even open circuit. OCV is closer to 3.2V. Under a 1A load, it is probably closer to 2.5V-2.75V.

Does that driver use the usual AMC7135 LDO regulator? If so, I see 8 of them, which would mean 2.8A out. An IMR could help. Or the reason the board outputs 2.5A instead of 2.8A could be that the PWR controller IC is programmed that way for High mode. Or the board uses a different LDO regulator. Or it's the usual lousy spec'ing of these cheap Chinese drivers.

Assuming an 8xAMC7135-based driver, Vbatt > Vf + AMC7135 drop (=0.12V) for the board to run in full regulation. Let's assume Vf=3.50V (the high end of an I voltage bin P7 and the low end of a J voltage bin P7). Then, Vbatt > ~3.62V. Should be easily achievable using one Li-ion for most of its run time. However, if you are unlucky, and the P7 Vf is 3.75V (high end for a J-bin), then Vbatt > ~3.9V. Now, voltage sag could get you and an IMR, with its lower internal resistance, could help.

If you can put your DMM probes across the P7's terminals while under load to measure Vf, that would help narrow the possibilities.

LED is J-bin so higher vf , which is why I chose it for this application .
It takes a full 2 minutes on high before it starts warming up , Im not really looking to improve current draw on this one , its right the way it is ..
@ 1.75A on Hi , :thinking: I really dont want to go higher than that in such a small host , Im just glad the A20 is built heavy duty , or it would get real hot real fast .
 
With the J voltage bin P7 lottery pick you have and 1xLi-ion, most likely you aren't running in full regulation (Vbatt<Vf + 0.12V), and thus you get your tail current measurement of 1.75A instead of 2.8A. Based on the AMC7135 dropout voltage specs, you are probably at about Vf+0.07V for Vbatt, instead of at least Vf+0.12V.

IMO, depending on a high Vf is probably not a reliable method to keep the current draw low for this case. Vf decreases with junction temp and you are looking at Vf dropping by only 0.05V to get back into regulation. What is probably helping more than anything else is you are using a small Li-ion cell that has a lot of voltage sag at the relatively high current load.

You are using an RCR123A? At 1.75A draw, you are far exceeding the recommended 2C discharge rate, but we've been through that before.
 
You are using an RCR123A? At 1.75A draw, you are far exceeding the recommended 2C discharge rate, but we've been through that before.

Yes we have .. Lo 0.12A Med 0.64A well within capacity of the RCR123A ..
And yes 1.75A is a lot , for such a small cell , but its the price you must pay .
If it shortens the life from 500 recharges to 10 , its still cheap power .

I will see how long this AW lasts , it will be solely used in this light .
Lo and medium are the primary levels I use , and Hi is usually 30 seconds or less if I use it .
:D
 
But hypothetically dropping an IMR 16340 would solve the overdraw concern.
I've got a single imr 16340 and looking for a decent use for it, unfortunately it seems respectable incans want two at least. seems I should drop it in my similar (but mc-e) 16340 pocket blaster.
 
You have got to be kidding me! Is nothing sacred? Will you rebuild or on the the next great thing?
 
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