Been a while, but I think it was mid to late 70's when I bought it. I'll try dig it out and check the serial number.
Any other SL-20X fans out there?
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Been a while, but I think it was mid to late 70's when I bought it. I'll try dig it out and check the serial number.
I'm an LEO in California and after reading this thread, I would love to upgrade my sl-20x. Are there any resources that anyone can share with me to do so. Thanks in advance...
depusm12
Flashlight Enthusiast
Contact CPF member js, he has the potted bulbs and custom reflectors. I got my custom battery pack from CPF member Mad Maxabeam
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js
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hey guys,
I will indeed be making some more SL60 mod kits soon. I need to cut a new batch of rings, and then pot some 1160's into them, and this takes time and effort, so it won't be tomorrow or anything, but definitely before four weeks from this post, and most likely in two or three.
As for battery packs, www.batterieswholesale.com sells replacement 5 cell sticks for the Mag and SL-20X lights, made from Aero NiMH 4/5D cells.
If you go to this 5 cell pack page at the very bottom is the 5 cell mag/SL replacement pack, model number 1/2D3500HPH5-BT. It may be that they will use the 3.8 AH cells instead, and that's all well and good. Just don't try and get the 4.0 AH cells if you see them. Those aren't made anymore, and any you are likely to find have probably gone bad.
The problem with BWS is that they really gouge you on shipping. Plus, it doesn't look as if they have any of these 5 cell packs for sale via the web page, despite the fact that the sign says they will be available for online ordering in July 2007. But if they are for sale, a group buy of 5 or more really saves on the shipping cost if someone wanted to organize that. (I really don't want to, for the record)
If you'd like to stick with NiCd and go for the very best voltage under load and highest quality construction, then www.powerstream.com has some 1/2D 2.5AH NiCds for sale that will handle INSANE currents! (Although we only need about 4 or so amps
) They don't sell a pre-made 5 cell stick of these, with proper button top and all that, but they could do a custom run for us if there was enough interest, or, failing that, it'd be a piece of cake for me to end-to-end solder together a handful of 5 cell packs for people. The capacity isn't any greater than the latest SL-20X stock pack, but the quality and voltage underload would be a lot better.
So, feel free to consider this a "feeler" thread on the subject and express your interest (if any).
I will indeed be making some more SL60 mod kits soon. I need to cut a new batch of rings, and then pot some 1160's into them, and this takes time and effort, so it won't be tomorrow or anything, but definitely before four weeks from this post, and most likely in two or three.
As for battery packs, www.batterieswholesale.com sells replacement 5 cell sticks for the Mag and SL-20X lights, made from Aero NiMH 4/5D cells.
If you go to this 5 cell pack page at the very bottom is the 5 cell mag/SL replacement pack, model number 1/2D3500HPH5-BT. It may be that they will use the 3.8 AH cells instead, and that's all well and good. Just don't try and get the 4.0 AH cells if you see them. Those aren't made anymore, and any you are likely to find have probably gone bad.
The problem with BWS is that they really gouge you on shipping. Plus, it doesn't look as if they have any of these 5 cell packs for sale via the web page, despite the fact that the sign says they will be available for online ordering in July 2007. But if they are for sale, a group buy of 5 or more really saves on the shipping cost if someone wanted to organize that. (I really don't want to, for the record)
If you'd like to stick with NiCd and go for the very best voltage under load and highest quality construction, then www.powerstream.com has some 1/2D 2.5AH NiCds for sale that will handle INSANE currents! (Although we only need about 4 or so amps
) They don't sell a pre-made 5 cell stick of these, with proper button top and all that, but they could do a custom run for us if there was enough interest, or, failing that, it'd be a piece of cake for me to end-to-end solder together a handful of 5 cell packs for people. The capacity isn't any greater than the latest SL-20X stock pack, but the quality and voltage underload would be a lot better.So, feel free to consider this a "feeler" thread on the subject and express your interest (if any).
Policetacteam
Enlightened
js,
In your honest opinion what would be the best battery to run the SL-60!?! I will be purchasing your mod once they are complete and also purchasing the dimmer tail cap, and probably a new battery but I'm not sure exactly what I need or what would work best. Thanks for the help!
In your honest opinion what would be the best battery to run the SL-60!?! I will be purchasing your mod once they are complete and also purchasing the dimmer tail cap, and probably a new battery but I'm not sure exactly what I need or what would work best. Thanks for the help!
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
Unless you're really really jonesing for the most brightness and/or want a stick that will last longer and tolerate sitting around better, then go for the 3.5 or 3.8 AH Aero NiMH stick from www.batterieswholesale.com. Someone should call or email them to see what's up with the 5 cell 1/2D NiMH packs.
Anyway, you'd get about 35 minutes of runtime with the powerstream cells, but with exceptionally good voltage over that time, and you'd get about 50-55 minutes of runtime from the 3.5 or 3.8 AH cells, I suspect. So the NiMH stick is definitely the way to go for runtime! The 4.0AH sticks used to run for pretty much 60 minutes. Rather impressive runtime for a 450 lumen light, in my opinion. Although, you pay for it with the length and weight. Still, as I've said in the un-suck your SL-20X thread, the SL-20X definitely has some stuff going for it, and the flasher/dimmer cap is high up on the list in my book!
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
Oh, and one more thing:
If BWS is not selling the SL-20X sticks right now, but is selling the loose 1/2D cells (either 3.5 or 3.8 AH), then if someone sent me a bunch of them, I could end-to-end solder them up into sticks without too much trouble and expense. I just love end-to-end soldering 1/2D cells! Talk about a seriously high current low resistance joint! RC people use this method to make packs capable of 50 to 100 amps output!
I could do the pack building for around $10 over the cost of the cells, but I wouldn't want to do more than, say, 6 or 8 of these. It starts to get really tedious to make dozens and dozens of packs, to say the least.
But one or two or three or even six or so is no problem, and would be enjoyable.
If BWS is not selling the SL-20X sticks right now, but is selling the loose 1/2D cells (either 3.5 or 3.8 AH), then if someone sent me a bunch of them, I could end-to-end solder them up into sticks without too much trouble and expense. I just love end-to-end soldering 1/2D cells! Talk about a seriously high current low resistance joint! RC people use this method to make packs capable of 50 to 100 amps output!
I could do the pack building for around $10 over the cost of the cells, but I wouldn't want to do more than, say, 6 or 8 of these. It starts to get really tedious to make dozens and dozens of packs, to say the least.
But one or two or three or even six or so is no problem, and would be enjoyable.
depusm12
Flashlight Enthusiast
To echo what js has said the dimmer tail cap for the SL20X rocks. I use it on mine with the orange traffic cone and flashing mode for direction traffic. :devil:
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
Not possible with the 450 lumen 1160 upgrade.
With the Aero NiMH 3.8 AH stick, you'll get close to 60 minutes, but no chance of 90. You'd have to go to the SL-35X or 20X LA to reach those runtimes, with the corresponding loss of total light output.
The stock stick will run the 1160 for maybe 35 minutes, but it does a decent job of it in those minutes--not as good as the Powerstream cells, of course, but not bad considering its a stock pack. Those usually suck pond water when trying to drive the high output WA lamps.
Walt175
Enlightened
Sl-60's coming soon???? 
:rock:
:rock:
qarawol
Enlightened
I think I may have one or two... I forgot. Can you see the SL20X(s)?
I prefer the older SL20/35 for the fact that the switch assembly has no electronics to be concerned about and that the basic design of two metals touching can't be beat. It also self cleans itself when inserted and removed from its charger. I do still like to use the SL20X, though I don't know if I want to get the LED version.
Chalk up one more to the list.
Njoy...
I prefer the older SL20/35 for the fact that the switch assembly has no electronics to be concerned about and that the basic design of two metals touching can't be beat. It also self cleans itself when inserted and removed from its charger. I do still like to use the SL20X, though I don't know if I want to get the LED version.
Chalk up one more to the list.
Njoy...
Policetacteam
Enlightened
I was going to ask the same thing. I have a custom battery for my 8AX Commander and it has to be charged until the light turns solid green, then pull it out and put it right back in until the green light is blinking. Its kind of a hassle but worth the trouble! Just curious if something similar would have to be done with a custom stick or not!?!
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
stock charger will work just fine, although you have to leave it on the charger for longer due to the higher capacity.
When I had phaserburn's SL-20X I looked into increasing the charge rate, and it can be done, but it's not simple (like with a TL charger), and we just decided to leave well enough alone. It would take modding both the switch core AND the harness in order to change the charge rate and turn the charging circuit into something respectable. As it is, it's not even a constant current setup. It's just a couple resistors in series with the wallwart. All of the ripple just goes right into the battery. And when the battery starts to die, the circuit just makes it worse by pumping MORE current in, causing it to die more, cause even more current, and so on.
Also, it's a helluva lot of power to dissipate, which is why the switch core gets so damn hot and why that part fails frequently--mostly in LEO situations where they leave the lights on constant charge when not in use.
DON'T DO THIS, by the way!
Anyway, short answer is:
YES. Stock charger will work just fine, but it may take 12 or even 16 hours instead of 8 to fully charge the 3.8 AH stick.
When I had phaserburn's SL-20X I looked into increasing the charge rate, and it can be done, but it's not simple (like with a TL charger), and we just decided to leave well enough alone. It would take modding both the switch core AND the harness in order to change the charge rate and turn the charging circuit into something respectable. As it is, it's not even a constant current setup. It's just a couple resistors in series with the wallwart. All of the ripple just goes right into the battery. And when the battery starts to die, the circuit just makes it worse by pumping MORE current in, causing it to die more, cause even more current, and so on.
Also, it's a helluva lot of power to dissipate, which is why the switch core gets so damn hot and why that part fails frequently--mostly in LEO situations where they leave the lights on constant charge when not in use.
DON'T DO THIS, by the way!
Anyway, short answer is:
YES. Stock charger will work just fine, but it may take 12 or even 16 hours instead of 8 to fully charge the 3.8 AH stick.
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
OK. Everyone, I will start looking into the Aero NiMH replacement battery situation and post back here sometime next week.
I just cut a bunch of fixture rings, so with that obstacle down, I can probably make up a half dozen or so SL-60 kits in the next two or three weeks, but at this point I can't guarantee anything. Anyway, hang tight and I'll post back here next week.
I just cut a bunch of fixture rings, so with that obstacle down, I can probably make up a half dozen or so SL-60 kits in the next two or three weeks, but at this point I can't guarantee anything. Anyway, hang tight and I'll post back here next week.
NotRegulated
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2004
- Messages
- 1,358
I'm still using my SL-20. It's 25 years old.
JS, I believe I PM'ed you 6 to 9 months ago asking about an SL-60 kit. I am still interested in one.
JS, I believe I PM'ed you 6 to 9 months ago asking about an SL-60 kit. I am still interested in one.
LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
JS: thanks for keeping us updated on the 20X.
js
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well guys,
I haven't found any way to contact www.batterieswholesale.com. The contact info page says their website will be down until "June 18th". Doesn't look good, does it? Let me see what else I can dig up in the way of 1/2D cells or packs.
I haven't found any way to contact www.batterieswholesale.com. The contact info page says their website will be down until "June 18th". Doesn't look good, does it? Let me see what else I can dig up in the way of 1/2D cells or packs.
TxShooter
Newly Enlightened
I dealt with Batteries Wholesale back in March (they're a local business). I found this contact info in an old e-mail from them.
Victor Tan
RP Batteries
PO Box 2152 Brookside Centre
Brisbane, QLD 4053
Australia
Tel (61-7) 3351 0700
Fax (61-7) 3351 0800
[email protected]
Victor provided the following on the Aero rechargeable stick:
Victor Tan
RP Batteries
PO Box 2152 Brookside Centre
Brisbane, QLD 4053
Australia
Tel (61-7) 3351 0700
Fax (61-7) 3351 0800
[email protected]
Victor provided the following on the Aero rechargeable stick:
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