appliance repair

knot

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Will someone recommend a good online repair site. I have 17 views at another site but no replies.

So far, I have replaced the control board and the door switch. There is 120v after the door switch going to the relay board.


There was a brown wire leading from the door switch that I fixed with solder and heat shrink because it was pinched and had a bad intermittent connection.

It seems the site I was going to specializes in "replace-a-part" troubleshooting and ran out of parts to replace so no more help was offered.

The bottom line is, this is my 82 year old mother's dishwasher and she needs it fixed ASAP and we only have the ability to DIY. I have no problem with working on appliances and I prefer to do it myself. I just need a little guidance in troubleshooting. It's been several weeks and we still don't have any parts recommended that are a solution.
 
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these things can always be tricky!! DIY sometimes leads to "replace eveything you can think of" and still not have a solution!!! I tend to do that with my auto's :)


I don't know of a site but.... at what point would a pro's services or (eeeek replacing) the applience worth it to you? I know it's not an option but from the outside looking in had to throw it out there.


One thing I can think of is to buy the same model from Craigslist or something and then you'll have all the spares you bought incase something goes...

I know it is not what you need 100% but hope this may help in some way!! I wish you the best!!!
 
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what kind of problem are you having? what kind of dish washer?
 
what kind of problem are you having? what kind of dish washer?

It won't start. For a while the "operating" light would flash but nothing else would work. Now no lights flash and it doesn't work.

It's a frigidaire dishwasher. It's 10 years old and about six months ago I had to replace all the plastic parts that attach to the motor because they were cracked and leaking.

Never having even taken an appliance apart before, I am finding myself being my mother's senior club friend's fix-it man for their computers and appliances more and more often. They usually make me a nice lunch or a box of chocolates - but I won't accept labor payment from them - only for parts. Dryers, built in icemakers, and mechanical parts on dishwashers are easy. It's when something involves electronics, it's hard to troubleshoot.
 
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I have a kitchenaid - I had some problems with the cycle/timer - on mine it is a stepper motor with a plastic cam and about 20 contact points. turns out one was pitted and not making contact. I don't know your setup - do you have an electrical schematic?
there are usually a few interlocks - full basin, water temp and the like. maybe one of those is acting up.
 
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http://www.repairclinic.com/0003.asp

http://fixitnow.com/samurais-staber-store/
 
I have a kitchenaid - I had some problems with the cycle/timer - on mine it is a stepper motor with a plastic cam and about 20 contact points. turns out one was pitted and not making contact. I don't know your setup - do you have an electrical schematic?
there are usually a few interlocks - full basin, water temp and the like. maybe one of those is acting up.

I don't believe there is a timer motor on this machine. I don't have a schematic and the "repair guy" that I have issue with said he doesn't have access to one and there isn't any online.

As I stated earlier, one wire leading to, or leaving, the door latch was corroded or burned. There must be some reason for this.
 
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00184294.jpg


grid is 1" square -- look familiar??

http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp?PageNum=2

Frigidaire Dishwasher
door latch switch
$42.30

I was directed to buy the whole assembly for $70 which I don't need. The wire that was burned was after the plug - part of the whole wiring harness. There is nothing wrong with the original switch or latch.

Thanks for your help though. I do appreciate it.
 
I am at a loss - without a wiring diagram or schematic it is difficult to trace the problem.
 
This is the wire I repaired. It supplies 120v from the door latch to the relay board that feeds the control board and etc. I cut a section out and soldered two wires together and used heat shrink tubing.




I might have to order a new relay board as I was trying to take off one of the plugs which is located just below one of the relays and I heard a crack as I was using the relay to pry against. One post broke free of the solder. I tried to push it back on with a mutitester probe - only to make a hole in its paper thin case. I figured I better look to see if I needed to fix it then upon gently pulling on it the whole relay broke off it's solder points without breaking it's posts. Will a relay still work like this? I soldered it back on



Now this machine wasn't working without me touching the relay board. I'm wondering if the relay board is at fault originally. The relay board is somewhere around 100 dollars.

Maybe it would be cheaper just to buy a used machine somewhere.
 
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