Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
I recieved one of these recently:
Romisen RC-T6 6*Cree Q4-WC 3-Mode 500-Lumen Mega LED Flashlight Gray (1-4*CR123A/18650)
Here is what I saw and know about it.
It is adverstised with three vendors, all have CPF connections, but they have conflicting specifications. Two state it has Q4 emitters, one says Q5. Output is questionable. Rated at 500 lumens or 1500 lumens or rated at 1500mAh. The XRE emitters whether Q4 or Q5 have a max of 1000 mA when run at Vf max. So 1500 mA makes little sense. Wonder what that figure really was suppose to represent.
I build LED mods and recently had to contemplate all of these factors. I built a 7X Q5 light with output @ 1600 lumens. T6 with 6x Q4 or Q5 could concievably be 1500 lumens. My light had $400 in parts just to build it. T-6 is under $50. link: 7-XRE Q5 Cree, 1600 lumen Scene Flood Light-DIY
click to enlarge:
T-6 is very good looking and practicle in ergonomics. A forward side clicky is just right. It would be a good weapons light. The reflector is aluminum and well made. The electronics are on a long board under the switch, it looks like it runs high, med and low by running a constant output from 2,4 or 6 emitters.
BUT>>>
It was DOA out of the box.
The emitters are on a flat heat sync disk the size and thickness similiar to a Dollar coin. Each emitter is surrounded by an insulating material. They are glued with a ceramic epoxy. THE SYNC IS TOO SMALL FOR ANY MORE THAN RUNNING ONE EMITTER AND JUST FOR SHORT RUNS!!!! 6 cannot possibly work going full bore on the available power. I know how much heat the 7x Q5 makes, 110 degrees F in 12 minutes on a custom copper sync the size of a Mag D head. That is massive compared to this flimsy sync.
click to enlarge:
I doubt they run this critter at full output, they can't it will overheat at TjMax @ 221 degrees. (thermal junction maximum) and then there should be some drop in output or LED death. The 1500 lumen output is wrong the 500 lumnen output listed by a vendor is likely correct but if 500 is all you are getting, why bother? 500 lumens is easily achieved with fewer LEDs and the P7s surpass that. Fewer LEDs are more efficient in energy use and heat output too.
Any time you use multiple emitters whether singly or under one lens like the P7 you have a flood type of beam. I had a similiar Romisen with 4 emitters and it was a good little light with a tight beam and brighter than R2s in the drip in modules. Handy and fit onto weapons readily.
Another defect of the light besides being DOA was the wiring, the wire is of poor quality. To remove the guts first you take off the bezel and reflector and free the sync. The head then can be unscrewed and the wiring will not rotate with the head. If you unscrew the head without doing that the wires will twist up. The 3 pairs of wires representing the 3 LED groups are soldered to the end of the electronic board and the multistrand wire easily breaks it is poor quality. Handling the wires lead to 4 of the wires breakign off at the solder joint junction.
One of the emitters did not align with the port in the reflector that was for it. Being that it is glued in place that was a manufacturing defect. It looks damage too.
The light looks great but design wise it just cannot work in a manner to be reasonable if it was not DOA.
Now what?
The head bell is about 50 mm in diameter. What I plan to do now that would be a better choice for a lot of light is to get a light with two 18650a, a head of about 50mm with a good heat sync design and have it in the P7. We learned from the MTE that certain resistors could be jumped in such a light and get a direct drive function and modes by the PWM.
P7 900 lumens MTE DX first impression I have done that on another P7s and the results was the LED was running at 3.2 Amps, higher than the OEM spec of 2.8 and the output was a very bright LED. Only my home made P7s put out more light.
So listen up...
Romisen RC-T6 6*Cree Q4-WC 3-Mode 500-Lumen Mega LED Flashlight Gray (1-4*CR123A/18650)
Here is what I saw and know about it.
It is adverstised with three vendors, all have CPF connections, but they have conflicting specifications. Two state it has Q4 emitters, one says Q5. Output is questionable. Rated at 500 lumens or 1500 lumens or rated at 1500mAh. The XRE emitters whether Q4 or Q5 have a max of 1000 mA when run at Vf max. So 1500 mA makes little sense. Wonder what that figure really was suppose to represent.
I build LED mods and recently had to contemplate all of these factors. I built a 7X Q5 light with output @ 1600 lumens. T6 with 6x Q4 or Q5 could concievably be 1500 lumens. My light had $400 in parts just to build it. T-6 is under $50. link: 7-XRE Q5 Cree, 1600 lumen Scene Flood Light-DIY
click to enlarge:
T-6 is very good looking and practicle in ergonomics. A forward side clicky is just right. It would be a good weapons light. The reflector is aluminum and well made. The electronics are on a long board under the switch, it looks like it runs high, med and low by running a constant output from 2,4 or 6 emitters.
BUT>>>
It was DOA out of the box. The emitters are on a flat heat sync disk the size and thickness similiar to a Dollar coin. Each emitter is surrounded by an insulating material. They are glued with a ceramic epoxy. THE SYNC IS TOO SMALL FOR ANY MORE THAN RUNNING ONE EMITTER AND JUST FOR SHORT RUNS!!!! 6 cannot possibly work going full bore on the available power. I know how much heat the 7x Q5 makes, 110 degrees F in 12 minutes on a custom copper sync the size of a Mag D head. That is massive compared to this flimsy sync.
click to enlarge:
I doubt they run this critter at full output, they can't it will overheat at TjMax @ 221 degrees. (thermal junction maximum) and then there should be some drop in output or LED death. The 1500 lumen output is wrong the 500 lumnen output listed by a vendor is likely correct but if 500 is all you are getting, why bother? 500 lumens is easily achieved with fewer LEDs and the P7s surpass that. Fewer LEDs are more efficient in energy use and heat output too.
Any time you use multiple emitters whether singly or under one lens like the P7 you have a flood type of beam. I had a similiar Romisen with 4 emitters and it was a good little light with a tight beam and brighter than R2s in the drip in modules. Handy and fit onto weapons readily.
Another defect of the light besides being DOA was the wiring, the wire is of poor quality. To remove the guts first you take off the bezel and reflector and free the sync. The head then can be unscrewed and the wiring will not rotate with the head. If you unscrew the head without doing that the wires will twist up. The 3 pairs of wires representing the 3 LED groups are soldered to the end of the electronic board and the multistrand wire easily breaks it is poor quality. Handling the wires lead to 4 of the wires breakign off at the solder joint junction.
One of the emitters did not align with the port in the reflector that was for it. Being that it is glued in place that was a manufacturing defect. It looks damage too.
The light looks great but design wise it just cannot work in a manner to be reasonable if it was not DOA.
Now what?
The head bell is about 50 mm in diameter. What I plan to do now that would be a better choice for a lot of light is to get a light with two 18650a, a head of about 50mm with a good heat sync design and have it in the P7. We learned from the MTE that certain resistors could be jumped in such a light and get a direct drive function and modes by the PWM.
P7 900 lumens MTE DX first impression I have done that on another P7s and the results was the LED was running at 3.2 Amps, higher than the OEM spec of 2.8 and the output was a very bright LED. Only my home made P7s put out more light.
So listen up...
:thumbsup: NEXT!
Last edited:
