Best E series/compatible head for throw?

[JWRitchie76]

Hello guys,

I just acquired a new Ti Mule in a trade and my plans for this light are strictly task oriented. I am looking to buy a throw dedicated E series or compatible E series head to swap out onto the 1x123 McClicky. My initial thoughts and plan is to get a VME/M31, I prefer M31 for best performance on single cell operation (runtime/output/low voltage operation) but am I overlooking something? Maybe a certain head from Surefire would be a better thrower than the Malkoff? I don't really know a lot about Surefire to know or maybe a mod option I could look into? Any thoughts or is the VME/M31 gonna be my best bet? I look forward to your replies. Thanks!

Jason

Oh BTW, I'd love to just get a Makai head but the budget doesn't call for it at the moment! :)

 

[jorn]

The m31 has a floody beam pattern. Try to find a m30, it got way more throw. The m30 is out of production, but some dealer might have one in stock somewhere. You can go for a used m30 on the markedplace. Are you getting the Ti vme head?

 

[Poison]

Try this one if you want more throw, variable brightness, fit all AA, CR123, 14500, 16340, and its proven work, you won't be disappointed, hoho..

 

[S1LVA]

I am a fan of th Malkoff drop-ins. I have a Ti VME head on my 2x123 McClicky and as far as looks go, this is one beautiful combo. I have the M61W and it has plenty of throw, for me at least, with a considerable amount of spill for many tasks. If your tasks only require one level of light then I highly recommend this combo. (single cell version for you of course!!!)

If you need more modes AND you aren't concerned about having a pretty looking light... Then I would recommend trying to acquire a Surefire E1B head. It won't match the Ti but it will have two modes and a beam like a laser.

That's just my 2 cents! Good luck

S1LVA

 

[JWRitchie76]

I am a fan of th Malkoff drop-ins. I have a Ti VME head on my 2x123 McClicky and as far as looks go, this is one beautiful combo. I have the M61W and it has plenty of throw, for me at least, with a considerable amount of spill for many tasks. If your tasks only require one level of light then I highly recommend this combo. (single cell version for you of course!!!)

If you need more modes AND you aren't concerned about having a pretty looking light... Then I would recommend trying to acquire a Surefire E1B head. It won't match the Ti but it will have two modes and a beam like a laser.

That's just my 2 cents! Good luck

S1LVA

I was kinda curious about the E1B head, which is a KX1 correct? Would a LED upgrade change the beam profile? Say to a XP-G R4 5C I just happen to have on hand. I do have a MD2/M61W (4500K tint) already. It's a great light but usually bigger than I like to carry on my person. I wonder what kind of runtime I would get with the M61W on full power running a RCR123? Probably not very long as opposed to a M30/M31 low voltage application, primaries only of course. I'm not too concerned about modes 1 or 2 is fine and I'll be going Al due to cost, which to me the VME or E series look kinda cool on the Ti McClicky anyway. Kinda wish I could find a Aleph 3 and build a cheaper version of the Makai head.

Jorn, I'll keep an eye out for the M30, they use an optic correct? Gonna skimp and go Al since this isn't a EDC but rather task specific.

Poison, I owned a Ti V10R once. It did not out throw my warm Haiku, M61W or Peak Logan #8

 

[jorn]

Yep it uses an optic.
Nailbender makes a similar module, with one big massive pill and a optic. It looks like nailbender uses the same optic as malkoff, so I dont think the vme besel will block out any light. You can choose if you want multi modes, and how hard you want to drive it, but i don't know how well the pill will fit inside the wme head. Anyone know?

I use my m30w in a vme head with a cr123 vme clicky body. Replaced the kroll switch with a maglite 2xaa tailcap and made a simple qtc pill for it. Got variable brightness when i twist the tailcap:kiss:

 

[JWRitchie76]

So can anyone tell me about the KX2C 200 lumen head? Is it the same head that comes on the newer 200 lm E2DL's? Is it a good thrower? What are the operating voltages, meaning would it work properly running a single AW RCR123? Looks like maybe a promising prospect.

 

[JWRitchie76]

Well I ended up getting lucky and scoring a Malkoff M30W hosted in a VME 2xAA host. The M30W is truly a surprise for me and I think I'll love it due to it being more flexible on voltages over the M31 and as I understand it the optic throws better than the reflector. I am kinda bummed no one can speak or share any knowledge regarding the 200 lumen KX2C head. Not a lot of info on the web about it. I even emailed Surefire to see if they could share what the operating voltages are and maybe the LED used but no reply yet. Kuku I did get your PM, very nice! I am going to do a little more research on your drop-in. Thank you for the link.

 

[KuKu427]

KX2C is a single mode, non-spiked version of the E2DL.
Same beam/throw. Same voltages. It will run off a single RCR but it won't achieve full brightness.
You might have found more info if you searched for the M600C Scout Light. The M300A might be better suited for one cell operation if you are willing to accept the drop in lumen.
As of now, I think the KX2C, E2DL, LX2 series heads are as throwy as you can commercially get for the E series except for customs or mods.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...is-your-favorite-E-series-compatible-LED-head
My drop-ins are not what you are looking for if you want throw.

 

[bigchelis]

The absolute most throw you will ever get from an E-series bezel with the smallest size is to use the Surefire L1 bezel.

• Surfire L1 stock head = has no driver
• Valiant concepts 2*CR123 clicky body
• AW 17670 will power it
• No driver = direct drive
• 15K plus real lux......FYI..Malkoff Houndog XP-G does 20K.
• 300~333 real OTF lumens at 1.8A in my tests.

Now, I bet you can get more throw with those McGuizmo 38mm, 45mm, or 27L bezel/reflector set-ups but then it wouldnt be as nice to cary in the pocket.



Details: The Surefire L1 bezel is 100% all heatsink and no room for a driver because it normally sits inside the stock L1 body. The good news is that the XR-E R2 it does have can take alot of heat and generate well over 300 OTF lumens if you direct drive it. This is done by simply putting the bezel on any other body..So, a CR123 hosts or my favorate 2*CR123 hosts for more capacity AW 17670 cell.


bigC

 

[jorn]

The m30 was messured to ~300 otf lumens on a imr 16340, not bad for a old beater. The spill is "endless" because of the optic and "no besel" to block the spill on the vme. Almost 180` spill. I think you will love it.

 

[bigchelis]

The m30 was messured to ~300 otf lumens on a imr 16340, not bad for a old beater. The spill is "endless" because of the optic and "no besel" to block the spill on the vme. Almost 180` spill. I think you will love it.

The M30's that I tested all were 230ish, but my personal one low 300ish OTF lumens cause the freakishly low vF. It pulled 1.8A off IMR 16340 cells, but inspite of the 300 real OTF lumens the lux was only 6.8K at 1M.

The Malkoff M30 and M60 due to 8 degree optic do not throw much at all. Yes; 6~7K lux is good for a little light but 15K is alot better. The M30 I had did have a perfect and pretty beam and is perfect all around EDC light. Where the 15K lux Surfire L1 head on DD can be too intense for close up work.


You can use a single CR123 body too, but I just like the grip on the 2 cell better.

\

bigC

 

[JWRitchie76]

The absolute most throw you will ever get from an E-series bezel with the smallest size is to use the Surefire L1 bezel.

• Surfire L1 stock head = has no driver
• Valiant concepts 2*CR123 clicky body
• AW 17670 will power it
• No driver = direct drive
• 15K plus real lux......FYI..Malkoff Houndog XP-G does 20K.
• 300~333 real OTF lumens at 1.8A in my tests.

Now, I bet you can get more throw with those McGuizmo 38mm, 45mm, or 27L bezel/reflector set-ups but then it wouldnt be as nice to cary in the pocket.



Details: The Surefire L1 bezel is 100% all heatsink and no room for a driver because it normally sits inside the stock L1 body. The good news is that the XR-E R2 it does have can take alot of heat and generate well over 300 OTF lumens if you direct drive it. This is done by simply putting the bezel on any other body..So, a CR123 hosts or my favorate 2*CR123 hosts for more capacity AW 17670 cell.




bigC

Good info here BigC! Thanks! I only need enough throw to spot reflectors on channel markers while navigating the Mississippi at night. 100 - 150 yards? I'd like to keep in in the 1x123 size.....for now anyway! :devil: Looks like I might need to find me a decent L1 too!

 

[bigchelis]

Good info here BigC! Thanks! I only need enough throw to spot reflectors on channel markers while navigating the Mississippi at night. 100 - 150 yards? I'd like to keep in in the 1x123 size.....for now anyway! :devil: Looks like I might need to find me a decent L1 too!

$75 bucks brand new. Read links below.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?253445-Surefire-L1-HA-BL-on-sale-new-74.99
http://www.irawoods.com/Surefire-L1-...ategory=607053

 

[JWRitchie76]

Quick question, so when the L1 head is used with the L1 body it's a 2 stage but if you use it on say a McClicky either 1x123 or 2x123 it would run direct drive single mode?

 

[jorn]

Are there any spring in the L1 head? Looks like it has no spring.

 

[bigchelis]

Quick question, so when the L1 head is used with the L1 body it's a 2 stage but if you use it on say a McClicky either 1x123 or 2x123 it would run direct drive single mode?

You are 100% correct.

The 2 modes are via the tailcap.
The Driver is via the body.

Get head on any other body and its Direct Drive glory

 

[bigchelis]

Are there any spring in the L1 head? Looks like it has no spring.

No spring, it has a extended plastic (+) that works perfect. Just use any E-series Clicky of your choice or a Titanium E-18650 is you can get one.

 

[jorn]

Nice. No spring means it's easy to make qtc work in a maglite tailcap insted of those kroll switches. You should try it. Easy to make and works like a charm. Got a picture of a homemade tailcap somewhere in the malkoff junkie thread #642. Might have to order a L1.

 

[jorn]

Hmm, seems to be hard to find one when living outside the usa.
The first of your links to the markedplace diden't work for me, and the other one only ships to usa. Same on the ones at ebay. only ships to usa.. It would be good for the economy to export, but seems like no one want's to.
This is sad, because now i really wan a l1.
There is a norwegian net store that wants 315$ for the l1 , but no way if im buying for that price :S