BiPin Mag: The First Mag-MagCharger Hybrid

Ginseng

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This post was returned to the thread on 2/8/06.

Bottom Line:
This mod allows one to use any high performance, high output G4 bi-pin bulb in a regular Maglite flashlight. With this mod, the entire array of superbulbs from Welch-Allyn can be used in any Mag C or D body.

The Story:
Typically, the easiest route to incandescent or hot wire modding has been to run readily available bulbs such as the Mag KryptonStars and RadioShack KPR112 at overdrive. The PR cup base is an industry standard and one can easily find a massive variety of bulbs in voltages from 2.4V up to 18V. This provides for direct drop-in and instant gratification. However, while this base is ubiquitous, there are very few high performance bulbs in this format.

Over the last two years, there has been steadily increasing interest in the use of superbulbs. Most notably, the bulbs from Carley Lamps and Welch Allyn Lamps have been the ones of choice. In terms of performance, the Welch Allyn line provides arguably a greater range but definitively the higher performing options. Carley typically keeps current demands below 2A while Welch Allyn provide bulbs of up to 3.85A. However, while Carley can provide their bulbs potted in PR bases in addition the bare pin state, Welch Allyn do not pot their bare pin bulbs. The typical route to obtaining the compelling WA bulbs has been to purchase them and then send them to Carley for potting. This is a process, that due to minimum order requirements, has often required the vehicle of the Group Buy to make happen. Not only is this a complicated process, but it can take a great amount of time and effort to track the group buy. The most recent buys have easily run into the thousands of dollars parts and have stretched out months in duration from order to fulfillment.

During this time, modders have tried to make their own bi-pin to PR base adapters. I. myself, have built these devices out of pin sockets, scavenged PR bases and JB-Weld. These results have been acceptable but their manufacture is time intensive, difficult and just a regular pain in the butt.

The MagCharger is a unique platform in that unlike the vast majority of lights out there, it accepts bulbs in the G4 bi-pin format. However, the MC is expensive coming in at around $90-110 dollars for a complete setup versus as low as $16 for the "regular" Mags. For some time, I had thought about somehow converting parts of the MC innards into a drop-in for regular Mags. Sharing some of my thoughts with Bill Waites, he arranged to have a switch core sent to me. Jim Sexton also took a look at the core to assess the possibility of making ceramic components to replace the pin slug. In the end, it took Hook'd on Photons to finally kick me into gear and propose extracting the only essential part of the MagCharger and implanting it into a Mag. And that brings us to the current state of affairs.

Here is what is known:
1. The MagCharger pin slug itself will fit into the bulb receiver in a regular Mag. However, without a PR flange to hold it in place, it would fall right out the front of the pedestal. The pin slug is the plastic cylinder that encases the two pin sockets and the contacts to the switch core.

2. The entire MC slug and surrounding heavy metal collar can be swapped out for the analogous units in the regular Mag. The result is a hybrid Maglite that can now accept bi-pin bulbs.

3. The pins of the Welch Allyn bulbs are slightly on the long side. This results in the pins bottoming out inside the pin receivers before the bulb can seat as far down as it ultimately can. This results in the placement of the filament that is just on the edge of being able to focus optimally. This situation can be easily remedied though. You simply need to snip off 2mm from the ends of the pins. This allows the bulb to seat fully and enables the entire range of focusing. If you can focus without trimming, do so. You'll find out why below.

4. While I have test fit the slug and metal sleeve successfully in four different Mags (D and C), there may be some revisions that may have some interference issues. Mag has been known to slipstream minor changes into their design but since compatibility and consistency seem to be high, these cases are probably rare. But attempt to use this mod at your own risk.

Here are some pictures:

Comparison of the MagCharger and MagD switch bodies. You'll see that in this photo, the filament is noticeably higher for the bulb in the MC switch than in the MagD. This is remedied by snipping the pins as I described above. You can also see that there is almost nothing in common between the two switch bodies. They are completely and unmodifiably non-interchangeable. The cam follower bolts, inner spring and bulb receptacle/slug are interchangeable however and this is all we care about.
mcmagdswitch.jpg


Pin receiver slug installed in the Mag switch section. You can see that this is a D-body from the threading on the front of the tube. But wait, it now takes bi-pins instead of PR bases. Yep, this is the world's first bi-pin MagD made with all native MagLite parts. I call this mod the MagXXBP, where XX is a bulb code. So, using the WA01185 in this setup, the whole light would be called the Mag85BP.
magxxbp.jpg


Here is the light fully built up with bulb and battery. The bulb is the WA01274 and the battery pack consists of 6 x 4Ah 1/2D nimh cells in a 3.75D body. The body tube extender at the back is courtesy of supermodder Fivemega. This is the Mag74Bp and it will make over 500 lumens for almost 90 minutes.
mag74bp.jpg


Here is a pair of photos showing the effect of trimming the bulb pins. The bulb in this example is the stock MC bulb but that's ok because I'm just about 100% certain that they are made by WA. In any case, I also trimmed a WA01274 and the effect is the same. You can see that the bulb drops down about 1.5mm, just enough to provide the full range of focus. The downside, though, is that the hot glass of the bulb is now right on the slug. The potential for thermal damage is heightened. This risk must be understood by all. This means that thermal damage to the slug could happen more rapidly than if the same bulb were used in the MagCharger. My advice is if you can get acceptable focus without trimming the pins, don't trim.
magbpwiretrim.jpg


Well, that is all for now. This is not a guide as to how to do the mod yourself. It's easy and instructions and expertise abound for how to take out and take apart the Mag switch section. I will probably come back and post directions pertaining to the most relevant steps...but it's really that easy. Oh, one more thing. I tested this with Otokoyama's Perfect Mag Reflector (PMR) and it works, well, perfectly.

Enjoy!

Wilkey
 
Last edited:

Ginseng

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Forgot to mention or make clear.

1. This is an easy mod. The only tool you need is a 5/64" hex wrench.

2. It's cheap. The MC switch is about $10.50 plus shipping.

3. It's fully reversible.

4. With EL's 3-D adapters and Fivemega's extension rings and Mags 2C-6D, the battery body setups are plentiful.

5. The ability to use every battery chemistry and format from lithium, lithium ion, nicad and nimh means plentiful power options.

6. You can run so many different types and outputs of bulbs your mind will boggle. The present king of the hill is the WA01185. The Mag85/Mag85BP is the cheapest and easiest honest 800 lumen light you can find. If you need 'em, get 'em here: S4MadMan's Welch Allyn Group Buy .

Any questions?

Wilkey

EDIT: The correct hex key size is 5/64" or 2mm.
 

bjn70

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I'm a pure observer but I had a random comment- has this assembly been proven to carry the current and withstand the head of the 85 bulb?

While reading the previous monster post about bi-pin mods I had the thought that if heat is an issue maybe something like an Osink could be manufactured and the bipin socket could be attached to the Osink.
 

paulr

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Wow, it's cool that someone did this. Although, the economics aren't /that/ overwhelming: you need the Mag body ($20) plus an aluminum reflector ($25) plus the Magcharger switch ($11) plus 3-to-D's (let's say 3 of them for a 3D mag, $15) plus NiMH cells ($10?) plus some kind of charging setup ($20?). Plus you have to get all these parts, which is not always easy (reflector, temporary 3-to-D outage) and probably involves separate shipping charges for the separate items. And then you have to do some work putting it all together. The end result is a Mag85, king of the Mag mods.

On the other hand, you could just buy a brand new Magcharger for around $89 at your local hardware store, complete with Nicad stick and in-flashlight charging system, and drop in a 1160 bulb. Not quite as bright as the 1185, but about the same expenditure, and much more conveience both in terms of assembly and operation (just drop the light into the charger to charge it up).

For those who have tried both, how does a Mag85 compare to an MC60 in pure impressiveness in operation? I've been wondering about this.
 

bwaites

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MC60 is awesome, (I have 2, don't ask why!) but no contest with the '85! Somewhere more than 300 plus lumens extra out the front. Its actually closer to 400 if I remember right.

The MagCharger cradle can be modded to actually charge the '85 pack if you can do a little deoldering/soldering.

As far as impressiveness? No contest! The '85 is as much a step up from the MC60 as the MC60 is from the stock MagCharger.

Bill
 

paulr

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Yes I've heard of modding the MC cradle to charge an MC85. I'm thinking more in terms of MC60/MC85 vs. Mag85BP to use the new terminology. The MC can be simply dropped into the charging cradle for charging. The Mag85BP needs to be opened, and have its cells removed and charged, maybe on two or three chargers at once if you only have 4-cell chargers and don't want to be swapping cells in and out of chargers.

Thanks for the advise about 1160 vs 1185. The Mag mods tempt me but I think I'll wait to see if JS offers some more TL85's for sale, a much smaller light than the MC or Mag3D.
 

SJACKAL

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Hi Wilkey,

Wow! You done it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/clap.gif

Do you mean if the glass bulb touches the plastic slug/receptacle, it might melt over some time? Like what some folks experience while using WA1160 in their Magchargers?
 

SJACKAL

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I see, thanx. But the 'tail'of the bulb seems to touch the plastic receptacle even when the pins are not trimmed...

Assuming we are using modded RF1940 from the June Groupbuy, how do we focus?

There should be no problem when using a cammed reflector, such as those by Fivemega, right?

This is the day hotwire mods melts the plastic luxeons!
 

StEaLtH_

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It was only a matter of time, and our incan master has done it again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Very nice Wilkey /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Hookd_On_Photons

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[ QUOTE ]
paulr said:
Wow, it's cool that someone did this. Although, the economics aren't /that/ overwhelming: you need the Mag body ($20) plus an aluminum reflector ($25) plus the Magcharger switch ($11) plus 3-to-D's (let's say 3 of them for a 3D mag, $15) plus NiMH cells ($10?) plus some kind of charging setup ($20?). Plus you have to get all these parts, which is not always easy (reflector, temporary 3-to-D outage) and probably involves separate shipping charges for the separate items. And then you have to do some work putting it all together. The end result is a Mag85, king of the Mag mods.

On the other hand, you could just buy a brand new Magcharger for around $89 at your local hardware store, complete with Nicad stick and in-flashlight charging system, and drop in a 1160 bulb. Not quite as bright as the 1185, but about the same expenditure, and much more conveience both in terms of assembly and operation (just drop the light into the charger to charge it up).


[/ QUOTE ]

Well... since when has cost been a major factor for die-hard flashaholics anyway? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Your point about cost is well taken. However, in the example you provided above, a Mag85BP will cost about $101. Let's just round off to $120, to give a little wiggle room on the price of 9 NiMH batteries and the charger, and to account for shipping costs.

A stock Magcharger's "street" price is about $89. However, that's generally the Web price; I've seen Magchargers in the local retail stores for about $95-100. Let's just assume that Walmart has a sale on Magchargers, and one can be bought for $89. A Mag60 will cost about $7-9 more, depending upon how much you pay for a WA01160 lamp (~$4-6) and shipping. To compare apples to oranges, you need to figure out how much a Magcharger-85 will cost. For the sake of argument, let's say a WA01185 lamp and shipping is about the same cost. You still must purchase 3 3-to-D adapters, batteries, and a charger. Assuming the same costs as the MagBP example, that's an extra $45. The total is now $89 + $7 + $45 = $141.

Anyway, the main advantages of the MagBP are *flexibility*, and the potential to upgrade the large number of Maglites already out there. Mags have a huge user base. Chances are, most CPF readers already have a Maglite, even if they're not currently using it. Now you can upgrade your Mag to a superlight without having to wait for a groupbuy for potted Welch-Allyn lamps.

Got a Mag 2-D you want to turn into a photonic cannon? Convert it into a MagBP. Drop in a WA01111 and power it with 6 NiMH AAs in two 3-to-D adapters. Wheee, 880 lumens!

Got a Mag 3-D you'd like to upgrade? Now with the MagBP you can turn it into a Mag85 (with 3 3-to-D adapters) or a Mag60 if you don't need incredible luminosity (heh...), or you're worried about thermal damage to the pin slug (Magcharger stick, or 5 stacked 3/5D NiMH cells).

There are many other potential bulb/battery/host Maglite combinations that can be utilized with this new development.

I'll steal Ginseng's and JimH's mini-chart, which was posted in the WA groupbuy thread:

WA01111: 6V spec (464.95 lumens), 7.2V push (880 lumens)
WA01160: 5V spec (326.72 lumens), 6V push (618 lumens)
WA01183: 4.7V spec (410.92 lumens), 4.8V push (442 lumens) (can't take much overdrive)
WA01185: 9.6V spec (816.81 lumens), 10.8V push (1234 lumens)
WA01274: 7.2V spec (552.92 lumens), 8.4V push (946 lumens)
WA01318: 9.6V spec (534.07 lumens), 10.8V push (807 lumens)

The formula is: Overdriven lumen output = [(Voltage / Spec Voltage) ^ 3.5] * Spec lumen output. For example, a WA01160 driven at 6V would yield [(6V / 5V) ^ 3.5] * 326.72 = 618 lumens.

Welch-Allyn technical data and product specifications:
WA01111: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01111-U
WA01160: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01160-U
WA01183: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01183-U
WA01185: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01185-U
WA01274: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01274-U
WA01318: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=01318-U

S4MadMan's organizing a Welch-Allyn bipin lamp groupbuy right now. Here's the link:

WA Group Buy
 

Ginseng

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bjn70,

The damage that can be done by superbulbs such as the WA01185 have been well documented. In the MagCharger, the slug takes the brunt thermal damage. IMO, the rest of the MC switch assembly is more than robust enough to handle 3A/30W loads. In the Mag setup, the damage reports have been somewhat more elusive but tend towards self-soldering of the solder blob at the PR base to the contact in the Mag pedestal. I have also reported plastic stink but have not observed any physical damage to the pedestal even after repeated full-pack discharges.

In both cases, the heat exposure is self-limiting to a degree by virtue of the fact that a) the typical battery pack provides only about 25-30 minutes of runtime and b) the light's typical role is of demonstration device and not a hard-use work light.

paulr raises some valid points and the intended user of this mod should understand the situation before jumping in. Let's take a look at the economics first. The cheapest I've ever seen a MC go for is about $90 and they are never even close to this price in any brick-and-mortar that I've seen. But let's assume a price of $90 for this discussion. In essence, the MC is nothing more than a Mag 5D in a 3D body that recharges and uses bi-pin bulbs. The charging system is limited to 4-6 cell setups so it cannot charge the 9-cell pack of the MC85 without modification. Bwaites and I both produce MC85 turnkeys and the cost to make a MC85 is $45 in parts alone. This includes $11 (+shipping) for a 15V700mA AC/DC plug adapter, $0.25 for a replacement resistor, $15 for 9 nimh cells (+tax and/or shipping) and $15 for 3 3-D adapters. If you consider that the light is now incapable of charging the stock 5-cell pack, you'll have to replace both the cradle and wall plug (since the connector gets cut off to be used with the MC85 wall wart). This will add another $32 (+shipping and/or tax) to the cost. If you do this mod yourself and don't pay labor, the total cost to create the MC85 capability and still retain the MC stock capability is about $65. This makes the total cost $170.

If you start with a Mag3D, let's say you pay $18 for the light, $15 for the batteries, $11 for the MC switch, $25 for the aluminum reflector, $15 for 3 3-D adapters, $25 for a charger, $7 for a glass lens plus say $15 for shipping and tax, this brings you to $131. Let's say $140, even. What this setup gets you is the Mag-anything and MagBP-anything. That is far more flexibility than the modded MC85. The only shortcoming is no charge-in-place.

In both cases, the lights are cheaper, brighter and longer running than the 500-lumen SF M6. Sure, they aren't SF's but for those who have used one, the performance more than makes up for any "prestige" factor. For those who crave eye-stunning sleeper lights, this is the king as it makes almost 18 times the output of a 3-cell krypton bulb.

sjackal,
When using a non-cammed reflector, focusing is achieved by simply screwing the head down far enough to get the filament to the focal point. A lot of folks prefer this "set and forget" mode of focusing.

Wilkey
 

Ginseng

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Hook'd,

You must have been reading my mind.

I just want folks to understand that I love hot wire modding. It's not for everyone but if you like it, there are many options. Jim Sexton's TigerLight mods, my Mag mods and mod recipes, Bill Waites' turnkeys and all the stuff that even a newbie can do on his own. There's fun for everyone at every level.

Wilkey
 

KevinL

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Hm..... very informative post. For a moment I was thinking that I could utilize the charge-in-place (CIP) system that I would always have a topped off '85 ready to fire from the get go, but it looks like it would be cost prohibitive. It would be very much cheaper for me to stand by multiple sets of batteries or 9-cell NiMH packs and load them as needed.

IMHO, while the M6 is awesome for what it does, the Mag85 is unbelievable value for money. Trashed the housing by accident? Drop $20 and replace it, just move the internals over. Popped some Borofloat by dropping it? Flashlightlens will fix you up for $5.

And you never need to spend a cent on expensive CR123s again - NiMHs break even after TWO full pack discharges, and are therefore free forevermore. $1 is inexpensive, but $1 vs $0 - $0 wins every time.
 

larryk

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One other thing to consider is you have a choice of colors with the 3D Mag. I myself do not care for black, and I believe that is the only color option with the Magcharger.
 

KevinL

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That's true...

mag85-3.jpg


A little prettier than black. Besides, I like the choice of colors, it enables me to tell at a glance which Mag has which configuration. Black 4D = OA4D Cookbook (Luxeon 3), blue 3D = Mag85, black 3C = 3 x Lux3 mod.. etc.

Colors do matter. Well, at least to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Phaserburn

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Does anyone know the relative temps involved (and therefore the risk of melting this creative solution) using various WA bulbs? Is it strictly based on watts? I am wondering if the WA1318 might be a cooler option for those interested in going this route (vs 1185) but wants to minimize heat issues. Just a thought.
 

MSaxatilus

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Ginseng,

Do you know if this mod will work with cammed relector's like Fivemega's MOP, LOP, HOP refectors?

Or does the cam get in the way?
 
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