Boring out P1D CE for CR123

[Daravon]

I just got mine today, and I'm already considering hacking it up. I understand there's a P2D, so if they use the same heads, this head should be able to hold 3v just fine right? Questions:

Is there enough meat on the body to bore it out big enough?

How much brighter will it be?

How long will it last?

I figure if I just use a conductive spacer, then I can still use AAs in it if I'm ever in a pinch for batteries.

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Whoa, you're all over the map.

P1D-CE: 1xCR123A
L1D-CE: 1xAA
L2D-CE: 2xAA

I'm going to guess that you're talking about boring out an L1D-CE. If you check flashlightreviews, you can find the throw and output numbers for the L1D-CE and L2D-CE.

You should probably check with CPFer "Kooter," who has a thread about an upcoming CR123A body for the L_D-CE series.

It should be pretty much exactly as bright as the L2D-CE on NiMHs, with about half the runtime.

 

[Daravon]

L1D-CE: 1xAA

You are correct. Sorry. The above is what I have.

One thing, is this is the first real LED I've had, but it seems really blue to me. Reviews seem to describe the beam as 'white' and 'warm', but it looks quite blue to me. Extremely blue compared to my E2e.

 

[matrixshaman]

If you are used to or tuned in to the color rendition of an incandesent - i.e. a SF E2E than LED's are going to look 'blue' to you. To me incandescents look yellow. Years of working with photography taught me to be color aware of lighting. Incandescent is quite yellow compared to sunlight and LED. A good white LED is closer to sunlight than incandescent. It's possible you may have gotten a light that is more blue than some but my guess is that it's your 'learned' perception of what a light shoud be based on your SF E2E. I have quite a few Cree LED's and have yet to see one that is very blue - especially when compared to the old Luxeon I LED's or regular 5mm 'white' LED's.