Bought a Hakko 936

[Groundhog66]

Read the directions for the solder station, and it says I need a tip thermometer to properly calibrate it. I had no idea, but it says you should calibrate after each tip change. Do I have to order a tip calibrator now, or is there a less expensive alternative?

Tim

 

[Alan B]

Commercial Production lines have requirements for accuracy. I've never calibrated mine. Do you have any applications that call for precise temperatures? Usually they're not that critical.

-- Alan

 

[koala]

I have the 936, the unit is actually calibrated for the standard tip that is already mounted on the hand piece. I was told by the Hakko distributor in Melbourne. I bought it in 2003, not sure if they still calibrate it at the factory, it doesn't say that in the manual. You may find the standard tip too big for SMD so you might change it one day.

If you are using non standard tip, you may need to calibrate the temperature. I find that if the tip is similiar/closely resemblance to the standard tip then there is minimal impact to the changes in temperature. If you bought a tip with a thin neck, thin profile then you will have to re-calibrate.

I think the standard tip for the 907 handpiece is 900M-T=B. I bought a 900M-T-I, the temperature is off by -40C. Use a proper reader to calibrate it, the temperature probes that comes with cheap multimeter can only do up to 230C or so.

I used to do this... turn up the temperature until the solder starts to melt. If your solder is fluxed core then the flux should NOT splatter? If it does then the temperature is too high. Of course if you are soldering something like a beefy K2 legs then you may need to turn up the temperature. Like Alan said it's not critical but the temperature needs to be high enough to finish your job quickly so your parts don't get too much thermal damage but not too hot.

BTW, you made a damn good choice, the Hakko will last you for many years to come and 936 is probably one of the best seller so finding parts may not be that hard. Not those Aoyue, CT, cheap fake poo copies. They may work but there is a difference when you open up the case. Don't buy fake tips, they will corrode inside and bits of crap will fall off. Anyway the prices of the cheap copies are not any cheaper than the real deal.

 

[Groundhog66]

I got the 936-12, it cam with the tip 900M-T-1.6D. It says in the directions that there is a set screw on the dial that needs to be tightened.

 

[koala]

If you tighten the set screw with the allen key provided, can you still change the temperature? I think it's the temperature lock that prevent the temperature knob from turning, I never have to use that.

 

[Groundhog66]

Makes sense, I will never use it either. So you think it's calibrated and ready to go?

 

[koala]

It should melt the solder and the flux should not splatter. If your iron is new and shiny I doubt it is calibrated.

 

[Groundhog66]

Then I am back to having to get a calibration tool, where can I get a good inexpensive one?

 

[koala]

Do you have a multimeter that can read temperature? A proper K-probe that can do >500C should do. That's the cheapest solution I can think of. If you buy a purpose soldering iron tip temperature reader you'll probably use it only once a while, not so worth the $ IMO.

try this they are quite nice people http://www.tequipment.net/index.html
They have the 936-12 for $78.80

 

[Groundhog66]

This is the multi-meter I have, I doubt it does.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NOQB9W/?tag=cpf0b6-20

 

[LuxLuthor]

What are you doing that you need an exact calibration so the tip temp correlates with the dial? It seems like overkill to me.

 

[koala]

Boil an egg? :devil:

 

[donn_]

try this they are quite nice people http://www.tequipment.net/index.html
They have the 936-12 for $78.80

I ordered the 936-12 and 3 tips from them on December 8. It has not even shipped yet. First they told me it was on order, but not in stock, and would ship for a week. 2 weeks later they told me it was drop-shipping from Hakko, but they were closed for inventory, and would not ship until after the holidays.

If I order from them again, I'll phone, and confirm availabilty.

 

[Groundhog66]

I ordered the 936-12 and 3 tips from them on December 8. It has not even shipped yet. First they told me it was on order, but not in stock, and would ship for a week. 2 weeks later they told me it was drop-shipping from Hakko, but they were closed for inventory, and would not ship until after the holidays.

If I order from them again, I'll phone, and confirm availabilty.

I ordered mine from a guy in St Paul, MN off of Ebay, shipped right away and was only $76 shipped. Which extra tips did you order?

 

[Groundhog66]

What are you doing that you need an exact calibration so the tip temp correlates with the dial? It seems like overkill to me.

It's my first station, just trying to make sure I am doing everything correctly is all.

 

[LuxLuthor]

It's my first station, just trying to make sure I am doing everything correctly is all.

Ahhh, well I tend to use it more often on higher settings because it seems to get soldering done with less heating up of items. Two more important things that have helped me are abrading/roughing up/cleaning surfaces and using flux. I usually have my 936 set to 350-400° C for most tasks.

 

[EXPY]

I've been issuing Weller digital readout soldering stations in the plant since 1980's. We never calibrate them altho I did pick up a Weller calibrator at an auction once and played w/ it.

Everyone seemed to have their own preferences as to temp altho I did take exception to them leaving their irons cranked up since the tips aren't cheap and the cost came out of my pocket.:mecry:

Once you get a little familiar with your station, I think you will find that setting the temp is possible by 'feel' and the performance of your soldering.

I usually set mine to 750 degrees F as a best compromise between tip life and soldering, altho if the target has some mass, I'll crank it up all the way for a minute or two.

The 750 degree setting is what I've found to be great for soldering chips to either FR10 or teflon microwave type PCB over a 25 yr period of time.

 

[Groundhog66]

I need something to practice on, not wanting to trash any of my lights. I was told Radio Shack has some kits for cheap that you can work with, any other suggestions?

Tim

 

[EXPY]

Then I am back to having to get a calibration tool, where can I get a good inexpensive one?

EBay has 2 up now for about $89.

Also, don't make the mistake of choosing too small a tip just because you think it needs to be small for SM components.

You will find that you need to transfer a fair amount of heat to ovecome the mass of the board and to solder or unsolder the chip. Unsoldering is the bigger issue. I use a medium-small for most things. I have 2 Weller stations in my lab, one an EC2001 with the ETA style tip [my fav for work that I do], and the other small one, an EC4000 with a very slender tip for soldering fine wires on RF torroids, etc.

Also, if you are unsoldering a chip like an LED, don't hesitate to get help and use two irons, one on each side, to get it off fast w/o damage.

 

[EXPY]

I need something to practice on, not wanting to trash any of my lights. I was told Radio Shack has some kits for cheap that you can work with, any other suggestions?

Tim

Easiest thing in the world is to take an old cell phone or any other modern electronic device and tear it apart and get to work.

Use regular 60-40 solder about .030 " with electronic grade flux core not the leadfree stuff, it's a PITA.

Also pick up some .060", I use both about evenly.

It doesn't hurt to have some very fine solder with a silver content for SMD's. Stops silver leaching. Fry's in your area usually has it.

Actually, Fry's most has anything you want quickly. So does eBay or Digikey via post.

You need some quality fine point tweezers, type 7B. Not the cheap stuff, expect to pay ~ $15 and take care of them.

ETA and some quality dental picks, particularly straight. I bought a bunch of Motorola service pick kits some years ago. Most of the stuff you see in the stores and on eBay is not very good quality. You'll have to look around -these items are essential.