Cheap C-Pack "Fix" For Tailstanding

[Bob_G]

I'll just try to keep it simple If you have a C-Pack there's a good chance it doesn't tailstand and the switch may be too stiff for your liking. Don has said that the rubber boot from the SF Z57 tailcap should work to relieve both issues. The difference is that the flange on the Z57 boot takes up the space that normally would be filled by both the stock boot and an o-ring. Also the Z57 is thinner and much more flexible.

Zo, the boot from a Lumapower M1 switch is a perfect fit. Ricky (Lumapower's rep here at CPF) has said the switch is $7. I got a spare (GID) boot with my M1, but don't know if the boot is part of a purchased switch kit.

There you go, that's what I know. 7 bucks to fix what might be an annoying issue for some. You do need to cut off the little bumper that LM uses to contact the switch itself, but turning the boot inside out makes this a no brainer.

Oh, it fixes it very well - MUCH softer activation and no tailstand problem at all. The "feel" in hand of the LP boot and my SF A2 boot is pretty much the same.

 

[AlecGold]

hmm, I'm not particulary annoyed by the leaning tower of Ti, but I like the idea of a bit more smoothnes in the clickie perfomrance. On the other hand: it works nice as it is, so why change a winning team?

 

[Bob_G]

It's amazing how such a seemingly simple device can impart so many variables to the user experience! I live for tailstanding, and it's a requirement for any EDC. When I slap it down somewhere, it better stay there, or it gets a stern look from daddy.

If someone used a C-Pack as a pure twisty, you're done. If a person used it as a clicky, but didn't care about momentary, he could use an appropriate grip to initiate latching right off. I use momentary a lot, and want to be able to change to latched without adjusting my hand orientation. I can't do this in stock condition, unless I start with a "latch" grip, and that's nonintuitive for me. In other words, I can't use the pad of my thumb to latch it, I have to use the tip.

One change a person could make is removing the inner o-ring. This solves the tailstanding issue, and goes a ways toward softening the switch, but not all the way. Some people probably just had a heart attack reading that, but it looks to me like it would still be splash proof, and dunkable if you didn't operate the switch while dunked.

The new LP rubber cover, and I assume the SF one, transform the feel of the switch -it's not a small change at all, and it seems not to introduce any issues of its own. Of course, I have several Alephs and they all have the SFT, so I'm used to a soft activation and I assume this influences my view strongly

 

[Codeman]

Thanks, Bob G!

 

[BigHonu]

I have been using the XR-19C pretty much every day since I got it in December and somewhere in between then and now, the lean just went away. Don't know if the boot got a chance to settle in or what, but it sits nicely whether on or off.

 

[AlecGold]

Not in my case BigHonu, my light just went from flat tailstand (when heated up a lot, it would wobble the slightest possible bit) to a nice leaning tower of Ti, as it was said once.
It isn't a problem yet, but if it continues the protruding it might become a problem for tailstanding in the future. Or not
I'm inclined to try the Bob G solution!

 

[reptiles]

I have been using the XR-19C pretty much every day since I got it in December and somewhere in between then and now, the lean just went away. Don't know if the boot got a chance to settle in or what, but it sits nicely whether on or off.

I noticed the same thing... it just evolved to a true solid, tail stander all by itself. Amazing.

Regards,

Mark

 

[McGizmo]

Good input. Thanks guys!

 

[TITAN1833]

I have just tried what bob g said,not because i had leaning c-pack. just curious,hey now i have a soft touch ti s27-st-c. cool. oh i dont dunk my lights no need. cheers bob g .
uh how do i say this after a day . my light came on every time my coat hit the switch. i now know why don is the man he knew this would happen.by putting in a stiff boot. " eh leave it out"

 

[Codeman]

I've got a few M1 rubber boot caps headed my way.

 

[Bob_G]

If it works at all for you, give yourself a chance to get used to it. I had a weird experience last night. The Aleph I have with a McClicky and tailcap always seemed much softer than the C-Pack switch. After carrying the C-Pack with the LP rubber cover for several days now (which seemed very soft at first) when I grabbed the Aleph, it seemed really stiff LOL. Apparently I've assimilated the feel of the softer switch completely.

 

[Codeman]

My M1 rubber boots arrived yesterday. After removing the internal post of the M1 boot, it does fit pretty well. The slightly thinner but larger diameter collar seems to provide a good seal while reducing the overall height just enough. Actually, though I haven't looked closely enough to confirm this, the thinner collar may actually slide underneath the silicon o-ring, instead of simply resting inside it. If that's the case, the M1 may actually improve water resistance. At this point, though, that's simply Codeman speculation, which I have a lot of, since the street value of my speculation is pretty low!

When installed, the M1 looks just like the original boot:

I'm not sure I'll keep it installed, though. I prefer the feel of the original boot. While the M1 boot does make thumb activation easier, I can feel the actual switch through the thinner (or softer, not sure which) boot. My highly subjective opinion is that it simply doesn't feel as solid. But that's just personal preference. I'll probably keep it installed for a few days, but I think I'm going to try cutting a spare stock boot down a bit. That should help reduce or eliminate the bulge while keeping the esthetics of the original boot's feel.

When I cut the internal post off, I cut it flush. Doing so leaves a small gap between the boot's internal surface and the actual switch. I may try to cut another one with a portion of the post left on. If I can get one cut so that the boot just touches the switch, I just might keep it installed. Leaving about 1/16" of the post intact may be about right. Glad I bought a few extras! Of course, cutting the internal post so that it makes constant contact with the switch will make accidental activation more likely, if only by a tiny amount.

I agree that for people who would like a softer boot, the M1's boot is an easy replacement that fits well. For folks that like using a tactical grip but find the stock boot a little too stiff to hold down for very long, the M1 boot will likely solve that problem for you.

Also, if you cut the internal post so that some if it remains, you should be able to tweak the switch in regards to how far you have to press before momentary mode turns on. For folks that like a more hair-trigger feel, the M1 can probably provide that as well.

Thanks again for posting about it, Bob_G! :goodjob:

Oh, yeah...it appears to have fixed my Leaning Tower of Ti, though I haven't done a long run on high to verify what effects heat will have on it.

 

[Codeman]

I took a closer look at the M1 boot. It appears that the collar does indeed sit below the silicon o-ring, but there's a slight space in between them. The EDPM o-ring, however, makes good contact with the M1 boot. I suspect that the water resistance is either the same with the M1 as the stock boot, or maybe slightly less.

 

[Bob_G]

Codeman, you need to give your muscle memory a chance to catch up to the different feel I left 1 mm or a little less of the post and don't feel the switch - that would bug me if I did and I've never noticed it.

I've been using mine without the red o-ring though. I just put it together with the red one in place and it's almost too stiff for me since I've grown so used to the, I guess I'll call it the "ultra soft" version. I think I'll leave it though, just for peace of mind.

It seems to me that either boot has to be sitting on the lower half of the red o-ring, or else it would just pop out. The stock boot snaps into place and stays there, so something must be retaining it besides side force - if it was perfectly centered on the red o-ring, it would pop back up. The way I look at it, and I know nothing about how this stuff works on a technical level, as long as there's some vertical compression on the parts, you've got some kind of a seal. The more gushy parts, the better the seal when smushed together, so even with the LP boot, which has a larger flange, and no red o-ring, the EPDF o-ring is vertically compressing it and filling what little gap is left.

Whatever, I like the idea of using the red o-ring with the LP boot, the best of both worlds Thanks for the tip.

 

[Codeman]

Bob_G, you were right. I've left the M1 boot on my XR19-C for the past 2 months and had basically forgotten about it. When my new 27Cx2 arrived today, I was a bit shocked at the stock boot's stiffness. Gotta go grab one of my spare M1 boots to put on the 27Cx2. Thanks again for the tip!