Choice of RCR123A for P3D-CE - 4 choices

[RobPowell]

okay so I am confused at all the posts on here, and I need your help!!

There are 3 types of battery, 3v, 3.6v, and 3.7v. Which rechargable battery is the best option for the P3D?

Which of these would you chose:
Ebay item 200079877157 - 3v 1000mAh 17335 battery (oem)
Ebay item 250129966212 - 3.6v Ultrafire 880mAh battery
kaidoman sell 3.7v 880mAh, so difference in voltage
AW's 750mAh (even though they do cost a fortune!)

There are loads of generic ones on ebay ranging in voltage and mAh, and just wondered if I buy generic (protected only!) from ebay if I won't get the same performance as one of the above??

I believe you can get slightly different sized RCR123A's, what's the largest size a P3D can take?

Many thanks for anyone willing to help me, and I have tried searching for the answer but only got more confused!!

 

[SilverFox]

Hello Rob,

Welcome to CPF.

I don't know the best choice for the P3D, but I can try to remove some of the confusion about Li-Ion cells.

When Li-Ion cells were first introduced, they were charged to a maximum of 4.1 volts. One Li-Ion cell replaces three NiMh cells, and these early cell just happen to have a mid point voltage of 3.6 volts under the design load, so they were called 3.6 volt nominal cells. Advancements were made in electrode materials, and now we can charge to 4.2 volts per cell. These newer cells have a mid point voltage of 3.7 volts.

I don't believe anyone still makes the original 3.6 volt cells, but the designation still remains. Currently the 3.6 and 3.7 volt cells are the same.

A demand materialized for Li-Ion cells that would work in place of CR123 lithium primary cells. The devices that use the CR123 cell could not tolerate the 4.2 volt maximum charge of a normal Li-Ion cell, so a voltage regulator was added to the cell. This regulator reduces the voltage from 3.7 volts to closer to 3.0 volts. This is called a 3.0 volt Li-Ion cell.

The 3.0 volt Li-Ion cell charges higher than that, so there still is some concern about harming the device you are putting the cell into, but its voltage is below the 3.7 volt cells. The 3.0 volt Li-Ion cell requires its own charger. There are several methods of regulating the voltage, so you usually have to purchase the cell and charger from the same vendor. You are strongly advised not to charge one brand of 3.0 volt cell in another brands charger.

There is some risk with using these cells. If the regulator fails shorted, you will ruin the device you are putting the cell into, and it may vent with flame when you go to charge it. This is a remote possibility, but you should be aware of it.

On a final note, you need to take the cell capacities on the R-CR123 cells with a grain of salt. Under normal conditions, these cells have around 600 - 650 mAh of capacity, regardless of how they are labeled.

Also, keep in mind that most Li-Ion cells are good for a maximum current draw of about twice their capacity. If you have a 750 mAh cell, 2C would be a current draw of 1.5 amps. However, if you run this cell at that rate, and its real capacity is 600 mA, you can use up the life of the cell in as little as 10 discharge cycles.

Tom

 

[Randy Shackleford]

Do a seach and research RCR123's and, then make sure you device can handle the higher volatge should you decide to use them.

item 200079877157 does not mention it's protected.

Ultrafire has mixed reviews here. Most seem to think the mAh is overstated.

There is another thread talking about these:
Ultrafire 3.6V 880mAh LC 16340 Protected CR123A Battery 2-Pack


here are two more for you:


Ultrafire LC 16340 3.6V 1000mAh Protected CR123A Battery-- big mAh claim

LIR 3.6V CR123A Batteries 2 Packs $3.60 --unprotected

 

[RobPowell]

Hi Tom, Randy,

Thanks for your input so far!! I defo will be going for protected, and I am shying away from generic ones now. I can't afford to fry a P3D for the sake of a bit of money!!

So if I read correctly, going for a 3.6 or 3.7v rechargable is not going to be a problem.

AFAIK the P3D handles up to 8.xv, so the voltage is not the problem. I am looking to get the best mAh possible to extend the usability of the batteries and get sustained output.

So it's really between the ultrafire 880mAh and the AW 750mAh. Has anyone got both that can compare??

I can only think the ultrafire ones are a fraction of the price and seem to have a better mAh? It's 2 ultrafires for 1 AW!!

Wasn't there a battery test here for 123's and there was a high current 880 that kicked bottom? was it the ultrafire? AW?....

 

[Randy Shackleford]

At $5 for 2 pack, the
Ultrafire 3.6V 880mAh LC 16340 Protected CR123A Battery 2-Pack is inexpensive enough to keep a few as spares.

 

[RobPowell]

It's not always about price, hence the question. I'd rather pay extra for a safe battery than one that is half the price, hence asking for peoples thoughts!!

3.7 may downgrade to 3v using the regulator, but does that make them get more hot, last longer, any pros or cons? Those are the kind of things I am unsure of.

 

[coppertrail]

This evening I ordered (4) of the Ultrafire 3.6V RCR123A 880 mAh cells before reading this thread. I'd like to know the P3D CE's input voltage. If it's 8.2V, then it should retain full regulation with (2) 3.6V RCR123A cells.

I was hoping I could use an 18650 but found out the tube can't accommodate it. I'm going to email Fenix to obtain the input voltage.

Edit: Elly from Fenix informed me that the Input voltage for the P3D CE is 4.2V - 8.4V. Since the 3.6V RCR123A cells come off the charger around 4.2V, 2 cells would = 8.4V, and regulation should be maintained since its within the input range.

 

[RobPowell]

Well I bought some 3.6V batteries, both 1000mAh and 880mAh. Both ultrafires with an ultrafire charger.

Neither sets will give me turbo mode!! I am wondering if they're not charging properly, I need to get my voltmeter out to test what voltage they're sitting at.

A quick Q to those who know the P3D (as I am new to it)..... to change to turbo mode you need to turn the head. Is the head a 2 part combo (i.e. it looks like it's got a top that'll turn, mine doesn't, should it??) or should I just be in essence unscrewing it from the body shaft by half a turn?

Either the top part isn't turning, or I am not getting the voltage so turbo mode is disabled.

 

[coppertrail]

Well I bought some 3.6V batteries, both 1000mAh and 880mAh. Both ultrafires with an ultrafire charger.

Neither sets will give me turbo mode!! I am wondering if they're not charging properly, I need to get my voltmeter out to test what voltage they're sitting at.

A quick Q to those who know the P3D (as I am new to it)..... to change to turbo mode you need to turn the head. Is the head a 2 part combo (i.e. it looks like it's got a top that'll turn, mine doesn't, should it??) or should I just be in essence unscrewing it from the body shaft by half a turn?

Either the top part isn't turning, or I am not getting the voltage so turbo mode is disabled.

This concerns me a bit as I have the same cells/charger on the way. I plan to use these cells in my P2D/P3D/

To change to turbo mode, you turn the head all the way counter clockwise (with the beam facing forward). Tapping the clicky toggles between turbo/strobe.

All modes work great on my P3D/P2D at this point, but at the moment I'm using 3.0V primaries.

The input voltage for the P3D is 4.2V - 8.2V, so if the 3.6V cells come off the charger @ 4.2V, it should maintain full regulation with 2 cells.

I will let you know how these cells work out in my P3D/P2D when they arrive this week.

 

[RobPowell]

Hi coppertrail,

It would appear that the charger indicates the batteries have a full charge even when they don't, so you need to leave them on for longer. The turbomode does work (although as it's not too much brighter than normal highest setting it's no biggie) but for how long I don't know. I will have to test times etc if/when I can afford normal batteries!

 

[data_lore]

Interesting thread this - I'll keeping an eye on it as I've recently bought a P3D and was looking at the rechargeable batteries option. :thumbsup:

 

[Nake]

I tried 2 of the Ultrafire 3.6V 880mAh in my P3D and they were too long. The tailcap won't contact the battery tube. Seems they work better in single cell lights where the extra length isn't multiplied. They work in lights that use the tailcap threads for the ground, or single cell twisties where the tube doesn't have to contact the circuit board.
I have one of the 1000mAh and it's longer yet.
My opinion, the AWs are your best bet for use in all types of 123 flashlights.

 

[cy]

if given a choice... always go for a single cell config when ever possible, when using li-ion cells. almost all my lights that uses li-ion cell is 1x li-ion config. only exception is Surefire A2, which uses 2x bare R123 because nothing else will fit and Surefire L6 which uses 2x 17500.

in this case fenix supports 1x or 2x li-ion. much better/safer to use 1x 17670 vs 2x R123.

always chose protected li-ion cells over bare. not too long ago when bare li-ion were all that was available. that's what everyone used.

now that protected cell is easily available. to gain overcharge protection at cell level and the safety it adds. costs are so close, there's simply no reason not to always purchase protected li-ion cells.

there may be a few exceptions like AAA size or smaller li-ion cells, where it's too small for protection circuits to fit and D sized li-ion cells.

a good place to start is AW's battery sales threads.
please consider reading link below.. greatest danger using li-ion cells occurs during re-charging.

This evening I ordered (4) of the Ultrafire 3.6V RCR123A 880 mAh cells before reading this thread. I'd like to know the P3D CE's input voltage. If it's 8.2V, then it should retain full regulation with (2) 3.6V RCR123A cells.

I was hoping I could use an 18650 but found out the tube can't accommodate it. I'm going to email Fenix to obtain the input voltage.

Edit: Elly from Fenix informed me that the Input voltage for the P3D CE is 4.2V - 8.4V. Since the 3.6V RCR123A cells come off the charger around 4.2V, 2 cells would = 8.4V, and regulation should be maintained since its within the input range.