clean your titanium threads

[Yoda4561]

Is electrical contact through the threads necessary, or is the bottom of the tube enough? As others have mentioned, Ti galls, Ti-Ti contact is the worst as the material will practically weld to itself. When you twist the threads it'll just end up tearing itself apart like in the photo. The only real solution is to eliminate the contact either with some kind of anti-seize, or by coating the threads with a graphite/moly/hBN coating (cerakote, gunkote, molyresin, graphite paint from tractor supply). No I haven't tried this on Ti, if they make that model in a warm or neutral white I might try it myself, but I won't spend money on cool white.

One low cost potential solution in regards to lubrication, Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant. It's the smoothest stuff I've ever put on flashlight threads, stays in one place, and doesn't seem to blacken up with wear materials as quickly as most others. It's also like 2 dollars at an auto parts store for a couple squeeze packs that have enough grease for dozens if not hundreds of applications on a small flashlight.

 

[Slazmo]

Titanium galls. Bad.

Should try the Nickle Grease - the nickel acts as a sufficant between the two metals and has been working a treat in my high speed bearings in my reels for years! Never had to replace a bearing yet from surf casting... It's also a very very very good lubricant for Stainless Steel - where I learnt that large bolts when applied dry dont do too well out on a substation... Hence why a $90 jar of Nickle grease doesnt go a long way application wise on site...

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...auto_Permatex_Nickel_Anti-Seize_Lubricant.htm

I have a slightly different product here in Aus, but all in all the same stuff... And its made for Ti also...

I've got a piece of pure Ti in sheet form - 22cm x 5cm x 4mm... Not sure what i'll do with it yet?

 

[127.0.0.1]

all titanium/titanium threads will gall to some extent.

the only cure I found (in other threaded titanium stuff I have)
is anti-seize with copper or other metal flakes

or pushing the two pieces together, so the threads do not need
to be used to overcome spring pressure, the threads merely float
as you screw them down. this prevents galling.

using the threads to close the light and also compress a spring, makes it gall

 

[shelm]

or pushing the two pieces together, so the threads do not need
to be used to overcome spring pressure, the threads merely float

that's the very best method of all. will also conserve the threads. two hands needed.

 

[fyrstormer]

The threads do need to be broken in, just like all other mating surfaces. There will be more grinding at first because of this, but eventually when the microscopic peaks are worn off the threads, the lubricant will be able to do its job and keep the threads from physically touching.

The problem is that titanium galls on a microscopic level with even a small amount of pressure, and those microscopic peaks end up sticking together, getting torn off the surface, and creating new microscopic peaks in the process. Repeat ad infinitum. A good lubricant with an anti-seize additive will bunch-up around the microscopic peaks and fill-in the microscopic scrape marks, and force titanium to slowly polish itself instead of continuing to tear itself to bits indefinitely. (like the stuff I made -- I also tried Permatex but I found its lubricating ability to be limited, though it does work great as an anti-seize compound only.)