Coleman Max Cree 2xAA runtime and beamshots

[mattchase]

Hi Degarb,

1. Unfortunately no, there is only on and off, so all or nothing in terms of brightness. I didn't want a bunch of different modes in this light, though it would have been nice to have a high and low like the L2S.

2. I don't have my postal scale with me so can't give an exact weight, but I think it would be a bit too heavy for a headband. It's not real heavy, but it's not as light as say a Fenix, and it is a bit bulkier. I will take mine with me to work where I can weigh it for you.

3. I just bought one of the headlamps as well and can do a runtime on it to see how long it really lasts. Not sure when though, busy schedule for the next few days. After answering question 2 I was actually going to suggest the headlamp model as it is nearly as bright as the 2xAA and has a larger spill.

4. I haven't used mine in the real world as of yet, but am going to be house / dog sitting for the rest the week out in the country and planned on taking a few flashlights and my camera with me and will take some photos. I don't know what the bin is but here is a macro photo of the LED, not sure if you can tell from this or not.


5. I'm working on it but all Seven of Nine wants to do anymore is make out...

 

[LEDrock]

A Coleman 2AA Cree vs. 2AA River Rock comparison?

This may sound a bit off topic, but I just have a specific question for my own curiosity. Does anyone here have the Coleman 2AA Cree and the River Rock 2AA? The reason I ask is because my RR 2AA is my only current "bright light" and I was wondering if getting the Coleman now would make sense or not. I wanted to get the Coleman because it has almost 3 times the advertised lumens (I believe the Nuwai version of the RR claims about 42 lumens). I also realize that the RR hardly has a spill to it, so I'll bet the Coleman is much better that way. But how about brightness? Is it significantly better that way? Is it noticeably better enough to warrant putting my RR into retirement if I bought the Coleman? Did you retire your River Rock?

 

[degarb]

I bought the 3 AAA version: package said extra hour runtime than 2 AA and extra 12 yards throw. However, I wonder if this is a chinese screwup in packaging since 2AA model clearly has narrower reflector and 1.5 watt hour more battery storage capacity.

So, someone will need both units to compare them head to head.

My impression of the light was: clearly greenish and not good at color rendering compared with (browning 70 and 130) rebels; incredibly dimmer hotspot than browning phantom 70, way way way dimmer than my browning 130 rebel hl, way way dimmer than my 80 lumen energizer hardcase cree inspection light, and even a shade dimmer than my 2005 lux 1 Brinkman HEadlamp from Walmart. I am quite dissappointed, but wonder still if the 2 AA Colman max might be a good light. Simply put, you cannot linearally increase lumens (2x) while exponentially dilluting hotspot by edging up beam angle and less efficient orange peel reflectors. If you do this you get a sucky light. Add to that drop in runtimes because of inefficient booster controllers, and you really have a poor performing light, despite emitter gains. But at least the USA physical stores aren't stuck 4 years behind web lights.

 

[degarb]

Of course, I am talking 3 AAA Coleman Max ( to buy 2 AA). I was playing again with it last night ouside, comparing it with other lights. While hotspot dimmer, as mentioned, (I see more detail in road, walls, roof, bricks, etc., with all other lights mentioned above.) it will be said that in this light's favor, it renders green very well (only color it renders excellently.) and has a very bright corona (and too large hotspot for my needs). This means that in summer time with lots of green outdoors, this is a very good light for hiking and lawncare in the dark. She lights up a tree well, with some loss of detail, made up by the fact that she renders green superbly. Runtime is yet to be seen, I am guessing 3 hours.

I might hack saw off battery end, and solder wires to head then velcro onto a 3 or 4 AA battery pack (with variable pot) with elastic wrist strap, for a wrist light of it. This will raise run time to something more useful (2x to 3 x).

 

[mattchase]

I haven't used mine much yet but the color is warmer than most my other LEDs. I'm not sure I would call mine green, but will have to take another look at it to see. I have only used it over grass and thought it rendered the blades of grass well enough.

I think the large and fairly bright corona is the best feature of this light, that is exactly what you should have with a headlamp. I think the low level is plenty bright for slower paced activities / closer work while the high level lights up that much more and throws pretty well. I took some pictures comparing it to a few other lights I have (no other headlamps) and will get those posted sometime in the next few days.

 

[Triple A]

Excellent review- great picture and data, as well. Thanks for taking the time to do this!

 

[alfreddajero]

Very nice review....just got mine this morning right after work.....its not as bright as my other lights but it will do....i guess i got a good one because mine doesnt flicker at all. Going to let my wife use this one so she can keep her mits off of my other lights. lol

 

[mattchase]

Degarb,

With batteries installed the Coleman 2xAA weighs 5.25oz, the headlamp weighs 3.25oz.

I finally had a chance to put together some comparison images that I shot last week with a few different flashlights. I tried to match the exposure and color balance to what I saw with my eyes (all of the images were shot raw and converted with the exact same settings to maintain an accurate comparison), on my monitor (color calibrated with a ColorVision Spyder2) these are pretty close to what I saw but they may not look the same on other monitors. Here is what I see; the Coleman 2xAA is warm, the Coleman headlamp on high also looks warm while the headlamp on low takes on more of a green tint. Fenix is as usual a bit cool. The P1 battery was starting to get low when I did the 25' tests but was still good when I did the 250' tests.



And for good measure I tried signaling some aliens while I was out there with my Mag 2D WA1111, but it was too cloudy to get through to them.

 

[alfreddajero]

Oh i forgot to ask you, are you able to get the head off......mine seems to be glued or something.

 

[darknessemitter]

I've found the 2xAA with both "silver core" and "yellow core" Crees, the former having phosphor only on the emitter, the latter having it all around the emitter. Does anyone know if one or the other is likely to be a higher bin?

And ironically, the silver one has a yellower tinted beam, while the yellow one has a more neutral or neutral-cool beam.

Oh, and one possible weakness to be aware of with this light: the negative contact spring on the inner side of the tailcap isn't attached very firmly; it's sort of "floating" on a small metal tab that bends down near the edge and folds into the inside of the tailcap. It doesn't feel like it will be damaged from normal screwing and unscrewing to change batteries, just be careful not to get it caught or yank on it when you're feeling frustrated.

 

[alfreddajero]

Yes thanks for the tip i also found that out myself....all in all for the price it does seem to be a good light......especially since you can get it at walmart......i have a silver core cree in mine and even though its not as bright as my others it will have a home in my collection.

 

[cave dave]

... Simply put, you cannot linearally increase lumens (2x) while exponentially dilluting hotspot by edging up beam angle and less efficient orange peel reflectors. If you do this you get a sucky light. ....

You are getting Lumens (total output) confused with Lux (spot brightness).

As to your definition of "sucky" that totally depends on your usage and priorities. I would gladly trade throw for a wider beam with a smoother transition. This is especially important to me in a headlamp and any activity that requires moving through varied terrain. (ie biking, caving, hiking)

 

[alfreddajero]

Since its dark out i got a chance to run the light.....i like it, does well indoors and outdoors, granted its not as bright as what i have now but the spot sure makes up for it......

 

[degarb]

You are getting Lumens (total output) confused with Lux (spot brightness).

As to your definition of "sucky" that totally depends on your usage and priorities. I would gladly trade throw for a wider beam with a smoother transition. This is especially important to me in a headlamp and any activity that requires moving through varied terrain. (ie biking, caving, hiking)

I never confuse lux and lumens. I can put my rebel square beam Browning headlamp, dial down to 30 milliamp and she will give the coleman a run for the money on lux. Probably more like 80 ma, though. Simply put: columnation IS efficiency. This especially since the eye uses focus, much like the beam of a flashlight: you cannot look at an enire picture at once. Alas, we are talking still limited battery source, and we need to keep all tricks to making things visible. Also, a floody light is worthless at 50% drain, while a thrower is still quite useful! Besides tests have shown average people prefer throwers, in general.

That side defended and stated, yes, yes, yes, depends on needs. This light may be better for hiking, since one is in a paranoid state of mind. But for detail work, for me, painting off side of house/dormer, cleaning up, looking for my keys in lawn, spotting small skips from 30 foot away, seeing texture or just dust on a baseboard, please just give me my Browning phantom 130 with her columnating (same effect as inverse square) ability. IE. tunnel vision is better task lighting ( esp. since bats can be dialed down when needed for long life), but wide angle is better if you are paranoid about getting jumped.

So as a rule, I bring my super bright tunnel 130 lumen and high lux light for the million dollar homes, and my wide angle lights to paint the rehabs.

I am am touchy about this because with most dorcy lights and the 3 AAA Max, I really can't do my job! And forced to dig out ye old my lux 1 collection, which really is brighter to eye--offering me more texture, throw, subtle dust spotting, and better vision at 50% battery drain-- on any task I do than this coleman max.

Might go camping soon, so looking forward to using the max for what it does surpass my current lights at: lighting up a tree and large swath of grass before me.

 

[degarb]

I guess I will reitterate that I only have the 3 AAA not the 2AA.

I will also add that most people doing tasks have some base lighting and are augmenting with headlamps for detail. When base lighting not around, I think common sense to pull out a floody nichia 20 hour light as a supplement, rather than turning a high power led into a flood.

 

[bob4apple]

I also have just the 3 AAA (quite bright, by the way), and decided to do a runtime test recently. After 4 hours it was only slightly dimmer, and still going strong.
I, on the other hand, was getting sleepy so I terminated the test.

Yikes! It's 3:30 AM- time for some quality darkness.

 

[rockz4532]

but really, what is the smell in the 2AA light?
it smells bad!

 

[adirondackdestroyer]

Has anyone been using Energizer Lithium AA cells in this light?

 

[adirondackdestroyer]

Anyone?

 

[alfreddajero]

I have used it with those cells and the output seems to be about the same.