Comment about the Hotlips heatsink

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Orion

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Jun 27, 2002
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Missouri
Yesterday I received my first Hotlips heatsink in the mail. Only being familiar with flat heatsinks in the past, I have to say that these are increadible pieces of work! Now, I like Elektrolumen's heatsinks. I am using them in two other 2D Maglite mods. One has a W2W bin in it and the other has a TWAK bin in it. The W2W, with it's high forward voltage, operates well with the Elektrolumen's heatsink and 6 AA batteries. I haven't used the TWAK much yet, so I'm not sure there [of course, I'm using 3 C batteries for it].

Before the TWAK and 3C's were put into that Maglite, I was running 5 AA batteries and an LED with a T forward voltage bin. I recently took that LED off and now that I have a Hotlips heatsink, the T bin LED will be placed on it and into another 2D size Maglite with the 5 AA batteries. The way it looks [the Hotlips], it should provide a better amount of thermal properties in order to perhaps allow that T fV bin LED to last longer.

Bottom line, though, is that the Hotlips heatsink is a WELL made piece of work!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
 
Yea I like the hot lips (very nicely machined) ,but I cant help to wonder about if it had a bit more material for the web between the Luxeon post and the contact cylinder to the mag.... it looks to be only 1/8"-3/16". with most mods taking out the bulb stalk what would be the loss of making the back cut not so deep? It would give a bit more mass and a bit more path for the heat to go.

Might make a great heatsink even better..
 
the back was kept the way it is for those who choose to keep the bulb post in place. i'm not sure how many percentage of people do that, but i know some do.

the primary means of thermal relief in the mag mod design is to move the heat to the outside, where the air can take it away. more mass on the inside of the heatsink really wouldn't help that a whole lot...

the main problem with other heatsinks that can be used for maglite mods, is the lack of contact area from the heatsink to the inside of the luxeon. that is the primary way for heat to get out, and is why the hotlips goes down the way it does.

we could have made it go flat with the bottom, and it still would have worked very well, but the extra bit going down helps too.
 
I found this very interesting.

As of right now, the 2D Maglite is in it's factory condition. I put the 5 AA batteries in it, put a 5 Cell PR Base bulb in it, turned it on and,. . . . . . . . big deal. It was barely better than with just 2 D batteries. I'm sure Carley makes something better, but a plain 5 Cell bulb is /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsdown.gif
 
Orion, try a 4 cell, 4.8v krypton (aka lantern) bulb. It will shorten the life but shouldn't blow too soon. If you are using alkalines, it might blow with a fresh set of batteries (after running thru one set), but I don't have this problem with my 6C running NiMH @ 7.2v. You would have 7.5 - 8v with fresh alkalines, tho.

But, since you have the 5 cell bulb, why not try it with 6 AAs? You mentioned 5AAs several times, so I assume you did not mean 6AA. I assume you are using some sort of 3AA to D holder? If you are using the older Electrolumens 3toDs, see the posts on CPF sites regarding hi resistance (about 1 ohm, not that hi) with them. There is some discussion about his new 3toDs on the Electrolumens forum also. -RussH
 
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I deff. agree the sucess of the Hotlips is due to the contact with the mag body.

I might even go as far as it could be bigger and go deeper :-) but is definatly the best option I have seen being SOLD...
 
Yes, RussH, I'm using the older 3AA to D holders. I have a dummy AA in one of them. It's the setup I'll be using with the **T bin LED I'll be putting in it. It was just a little experiment with the 5 cell incandescent bulb, and how much better an LED is.

I've seen the posts about the higher resistance in the older 3AA>Ds but I may need the extra resistance with my LED anyway. Also, I don't have the time to muddle through all the posts. Did they fix the resistance problem?

But returning to the topic at hand, the machining is superb. Someone mentioned that you'd have to remove some of the tube in order for the Hotlips to fit inside. Mine took very little 'urging' for it to go inside. I plan on using some Artic Alumina to set it in place. So with the 5 AA batteries, the higher resistance of the 3AA>D holders, and the Hotlips, my T fV LED should last longer than specs I hope.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif The best heatsinks get heat out from the slug to the OA body in the fastest path. I think the Hotlips does that well.

SKYWLKR: Yeah, the solid base was considered at its conception but the flexibility of leaving the switch stalk in overuled the design. Also in hindsight, the cavity allows for regulators to be fitted ala the MR-X.

Orion: You know... if all the OACs and OADs had exactly the same ID, then the Hotlips' OD would have fitted to snugly in ALL OAC/Ds. However, that is not the case. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif The Hotlips fit into some OAD's more snugly than others. In blue, it is a perfect fit. In black, more 'urging' is needed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Silver, pewter, red and green have slightly different fitting requirements. All however, can be made to fit with a little elbow grease with sandpaper. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

HOTLIPS LINK HERE
 
The Maglite is blue and the Hotlips fits in with just a little urging. No sandpaper needed here! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif You do great work, that's for sure! Now, last night, I placed the LED onto the Hotlips. Centering is FAR easier than a flat heatsink! Tonight, or sometime this weekend, I'll place it into the Maglite, solder the leads, and fire her up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

hotbeam, you mentioned colors and fittability (is that a word?). Has what you stated above been pretty much the norm for these colors? Have all blue fit perfectly? Have all black been more snug? How can this be? Are different colored Maglites made in different locations/cities? Or do certain colors require a differently timed process to get the finish on them?

But back to the topic at hand, GET A HOTLIPS FOR YOUR MAGLITE MOD!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
 
from my experience with machining minimags, different colors seem to be made in different places, because the pewter bodies tended to be quite warped /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

maybe the different sizes is a result of different thicknesses per color?

and since you brought up centering, here's a little doohicky i made to get luxeons perfectly centered /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

backside.jpg

frontside.jpg


the outside of the jig is a tight fit with the inner sides of the hotlips, and the hole in the top is the exact same diameter as the luxeon dome. so it keeps it perfectly centered, and keeps even pressure on the led while the epoxy cures /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Orion.... "How can this be?".... Ask the supplier of the OAs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'm sure you'll get something satisfactory from them (not).

Roth.... Glad you posted the doohiky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif An excellent idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif, I hope my Pewter 3C mags are not warped I payed quite a bit for those suckers..


Oh and I want a doohicky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif
 
Me want a doohicky too... How about a doohicky combo that'll work for both "C" and "D" Hotlips? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif
 
sorry guys, i'm out of that delrin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Well, over the weekend, I finished the project that I got the Hotlips for. No pictures. But you've all pretty much have seen it anyway. Hotlips with wires connecting to the LED leads. Maglite reflector and 5 watt LED, bin of X3T running with 5 AA batteries. Slightly brighter than my other setup [W2W] running with 6 AA batteries. The Hotlips does an excellent job with centering the LED, though with any other 5 watt LED and Mag reflector, it has the hole in the beam. Also, my soldering job isn't as pretty as some have done on here, but it is still functional. The wire to the + lead is rather normal [red wire poking through the hole and soldered to the + lead]. The - lead, though, the wire is as thick as the hole, and made of copper, then soldered to the - lead.

I'm using two of the Elektrolumen's 3AA>D holders but may switch to a 6AA holder [with one dummy AA used] for a little less resistance. This light would be VERY bright if I ran it with all 6 AA batteries, but it could be detrimental to the T fV bin of the LED. Of course, I DO have a Hotlips heatsink!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Anyway, that's the rest of the story. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
5 AA I would think is fine, 6 might kill it...or at least take some life away [how much brighter do you need it:-)anyway ]
BTW: are you running NiMh

I would love to get my hands on a X BIN, the best I have is a V Bin...
 
No, I'm running Alkies. I don't have a charger, though I may get one later down the road.

How much brighter? Well, as I understand it, the Mr. X would be much brighter than mine because of the electronics in it. Of course, I could be wrong, . . . and I've not seen any tests between the Mr. X and a direct drive X bin, but I was under the belief that the Mr. X would be a fair amount brighter. Anyone prove me wrong there?
 
Roth any chance of you getting some more Delrin to make a small run of "doohickies"? I'm interested too and are sure ther is more interest for these.

Please!!?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif (that smiley should be on it's knees begging rather bowing)
 
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