Cool white is out, Neutral is in

[somename]

I decided to experiment with the Eagletac options and got a smooth reflector Neutral white and an OP reflector Neutral white to test in my T20C2 MKII.

Comparing the neutral white modules to the cool white XP-G R5, there is a clear difference in tint. The XP-G R5 looks very blue to me. The neutral white looks like the best tint of the lights I currently own.
If anyone knows a neutral white they like better, let me know I'd be interested.

The smooth reflector does throw but has rings that seem to leave dark areas out at a distance. The OP reflector appears to throw just as far while having more flood which removes the feeling that your missing something in the dark areas.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
A few questions I do have:
Do I need to be using any grease on the threads of the modules to help with heat transfer to the light housing?

I asked Eagletac-usa to send some with my order of the 2 modules, but they didn't include any. They do have very fast shipping though, arrived in 3 days.

Do you use the same lubricant on the O-rings and on the threads?

Do you put any grease or lube on the electrical contacts where the battery + makes contact and where the tail cap contact makes the electrical connection to the body?

Is it ok for there to be 2 or 3 types of grease/lube on the light?

Can these lubricants and greases be used on all types of lights like Eagletac, Quark, and Fenix?

Once I get these details figured out I can move on to getting closer to building my first LED driver. My original incan Mag 2D is in need of an upgrade.

Thanks!

 

[TooManyGizmos]

Cool white is out, Neutral is in



NO ............... it's NOT :nana:

~

 

[Locoboy5150]

I just bought my first ever neutral tint LED light, a Fenix TK20, to try out something different compared to what I already have, lots of cool white LED lights. Cool white LEDs have their place, but for me I've learned that they're just not that great in the woods, especially compared to incandescent lights. Neutral tint LEDs aren't incandescents, but they're a step towards that direction.

As for O ring and thread lubricant, I use Nyogel 779ZC. It's available here:

http://www.lighthound.com/

If you buy it there, Light Hound has a 2% off discount code for CPF members:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=181841

I use it on all my lights from Maglite and Fenix. I don't own any, but I know some Surefire owners that use it too on their lights.

 

[somename]

Re: Cool white is out, Neutral is in my T20C2 MKII

Cool white is out, Neutral is in



NO ............... it's NOT :nana:

~

Maybe I should have included in the title I was referring to which LED tint I am now using in my T20C2 MKII.. I guess trying to keep the title short didn't help.

Thanks Locoboy5150 for the O-ring and thread lubricant advice. I think I need to clean my T20C2 MKII since the tail cap feels gritty when I am changing the battery. But I want something to reapply after cleaning.

I don't care if its $1 a tube or $15 a tube, so long as its high quality and works well in various weather conditions like hot, cool, and humidity.

We have a decent mix of weather with some days dirt blowing in your eyes from a 40 mph wind gust when its 100+F outside and other times there will be 4 inches of snow with the wind still blowing 20 mph.

So if I drop the light in the dirt or if it is dropped in the snow I want the lubricant to still do its job and allow me to clean it easily when I get back home.

Thanks for the replies! :twothumbs

 

[Henk_Lu]

In, out, whatever!

I should count all the different tints I have in my lights until now, around 10 I suppose, not counting the cool whites where I don't know teh tint because the manufacturer didn't mention it. I don't count the greenish, blueish, yellowish and violetish either.

The one that's in is the one I preffer to use at a given moment. My personal favorite for the tint is currently the SST50-4500K. That one is neutral AND white! Another one that I like best is the P4 high CRI, very special...

But, I still like the cool whites as well. They are more powerfull and new LEDs as the XP-G are white-white if you are lucky, perhaps a slight greenish tint which you only notice in a direct comparison. The tint lottery is over, if we think of the violet or green beams we saw years ago, todays LEDs are white.

As for the lubricants, I use only one on a light, I guess it is useless to try to lube teh threads with Nyogel 779 and the o-ring with 760, but you may try. I use those two Nyogels and Krytox on titanium, grease on the larger lights, 50/50 on the small ones. I have some Nano-Oil, but I didn't try it yet on a light. Some add a drop of that glitchy stuff to their normal lube, no idea if it's recommended or not. The most difficult in my eyes is to lubricate right, not too much, but enough...

 

[somename]

As for the lubricants, I use only one on a light, I guess it is useless to try to lube teh threads with Nyogel 779 and the o-ring with 760, but you may try. I use those two Nyogels and Krytox on titanium, grease on the larger lights, 50/50 on the small ones. I have some Nano-Oil, but I didn't try it yet on a light. Some add a drop of that glitchy stuff to their normal lube, no idea if it's recommended or not. The most difficult in my eyes is to lubricate right, not too much, but enough...

Thanks for more information Henk_Lu!

:thinking: I was thinking the Nyogel was the other way around with 760 on the threads and 779ZC on the O-ring.

Which do you prefer to use for all purpose use on threads, o-rings, and contant points? None of my lights are titanium.

Here is what I am seeing so far:
"NyoGel® 760G is a silica thickened, medium viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease for lubrication and protection of tin-lead electrical connectors. Benefits include good water resistance. By preventing environmental and fretting corrosion, it extends the life of electrical contacts. We recommend this grease for use on the threads of all aluminum-bodied flashlights. NyoGel® 760G is a relatively "thin" grease and rated for -40°C to 135°C temperature ranges. Note that NyoGel® 760G is not conductive, but it was designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive."

-------------------------------

"NyoGel® 779ZC is silica thickened, light viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical components. It contains special additives for reducing wear of aluminum surfaces. NyoGel® 779ZC is a thicker grease that has a higher level of damping and water protection than NyoGel® 759G. It is rated for temperatures from -20°C to 125°C. It works well in the connection between the o-rings and the bezel and tailcap on the flashlights. It also works great on Nitrolon-bodied flashlights like the G2, G2Z and 8NX."

--------------------


So it seems like 779ZC is great for O-rings and threads on the bezel and tailcap, but it is not designed for electrical contacts. Where as 760 is great for the electrical contacts, but it does not mention using on O-rings.



Have you tried the DeoxIT and DeoxIT GOLD solutions?

I have noticed they mention removing and prevention oxidation on contact terminals, but I am not sure if it is safe on o-rings?

Is the DeoxIT only used for cleaning purposes, and then a grease lubricant like Nyogel is used?

Thanks for helping!

 

[paulr]

Deoxit is for cleaning and lubricating electrical contacts (switches), not threads.

 

[somename]

Deoxit is for cleaning and lubricating electrical contacts (switches), not threads.

:thanks: paulr that answers one question I had. So now I need to just figure out which of the 2 Nyogel products is the better all purpose since I will use the Deoxit on the electrical contacts in the tail cap and where the + battery makes contact.

Is one type of Nyogel better if your threads are anodized or not?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Locoboy5150]

The comprehensive grease and lube thread stuck at the top of the general discussion forum may help:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=242414

It also may confuse you with all the mind-boggling different kinds of greases that CPF members use! That's where I found the Nyogel 779ZC. Like some other CPF members, I use it on both threads and O rings and it works nicely. My Fenix TK40 has non-anodized threads on its tailcap and my Fenix LD20 has anodized threads there. It works equally well on both of them.

Here's a nice review of the different Nyogel lubricants:

http://www.cpfreviews.com/Flashlight-Care-Nyogel-Lubricants.php

It says the following about Nyogel 779ZC:

NyoGel 779ZC works well for the flashlight o-rings at the bezel and tail cap as well as on threads on flashlights.

 

[Henk_Lu]

Thanks for more information Henk_Lu!

:thinking: I was thinking the Nyogel was the other way around with 760 on the threads and 779ZC on the O-ring.

Which do you prefer to use for all purpose use on threads, o-rings, and contant points? None of my lights are titanium.

Have you tried the DeoxIT and DeoxIT GOLD solutions?

I have noticed they mention removing and prevention oxidation on contact terminals, but I am not sure if it is safe on o-rings?

Is the DeoxIT only used for cleaning purposes, and then a grease lubricant like Nyogel is used?

Thanks for helping!

Maybe, that it's the other way around... :shrug:

760 is thinner, so I use that one on smaller lights and 779 on bigger lights (read : small & big threads). The o-ring gets the same as I said. I keep it away from any contact points. Try them out and use the one which gives you the best feeling, some don't like the feeling at all.

For cleaning purposes, I use Deoxyd, the red one if there already is a lot of dirt and/or oxydation, the gold one to "seal" the cleaned surfaces and hat one alone on new lights. On Twisties you feel a huge difference, they don't flicker anymore at the exact point contact engages.

I clean threads usually with a dry cloth (I use "kitchen-paper" to be honest, but real cloth is recommended), if they should be really dirty, you can ue alcohol, remove the o-ring before you do. Deoxyd can't be wrong, but it's not a thread-cleaner and you would use large quantities, I don't see a point in there. It should be safe on o-rings, but I limit its application to contact points.

There is a thread about lubricants and their use, a huge thread, you may want to study some of it... :wave:

 

[1 what]

I've made a number of P7 bike lights and use them in the bush (Woods).
I'm currently hooked on warm white. It depicts the range of greens much better in my eyes and looke much more 3D than cool white which looks brighter but "flat".