CREE MC-E heat-sink

[Britelumens]

Hi modders,



Just to share a new heat-sink that is specially made to fit the CREE MC-E emitter neatly. It is intended to drive this 4 dies emitter in 4P. However, a 2S2P configuration is also possible (below photos).


This is a small prototype run. For those is interested, please take a look at the sale thread here for more info.

2S2P soldering

Placing into the pocket

Completion

With regards,
Jo @ Britelumens

 

[Der Wichtel]

nice heatsink. Wouldn't it be better to make two more holes on the other 2 corners? Then there is more room for the 2p2s setup.

 

[Bimmerboy]

Nice heatsink, Jo. Two improvements would convince me to buy one if you make another run.

1. No milled extra pocket below the center of the emitter. Even though the MC-E's heatsink base is oriented 90 degress to it, there looks to be at least a 50% loss of metal to metal contact. Filling it with AA won't work as well as solid metal. I'd buy the heatsink with just this improvement alone.

Question: Is there a reason for this pocket?

2. Four wire holes, one in each corner for 2S2P. Heavier gauge wire could be used since you wouldn't have to stuff two of them through one hole. Granted, leads between driver and LED will be fairly short, but I still like to use the heaviest wire wherever possible... especially with the high current as compared to single die emitters. It'll also look pretty cool with leads at all four corners. :cool:

A third idea for those who'd like to make the solder connections underneath the legs as you have, would be to mill some runners along the sides to provide room for the wires. It looks as if having them underneath the legs will prevent the LED's base from contacting the sink at all. No problem for me as I'll be soldering on top, but a nice option for others.

With some tweaks, this could be the perfect MC-E heatsink!

 

[Drewfus2101]

It looks to like in the last picture, the emitter is not even resting on the sink because the wires won't let it sit down low enough. The four-hole option could fix this.

 

[StefanFS]

Two "big" holes and the emitter centered by ridges on the sides will accomodate serial, 2S2P and parallell connection.

 

[Britelumens]

Thank you to those who have contributed your ideas / comments on this new MC-E heat-sinks. Every comments will be taken into serious consideration. :thumbsup:


Here's my reply in blue;

nice heatsink. Wouldn't it be better to make two more holes on the other 2 corners? Then there is more room for the 2p2s setup.

There will be 4 holes ( replied below )

Nice heatsink, Jo. Two improvements would convince me to buy one if you make another run.

1. No milled extra pocket below the center of the emitter. Even though the MC-E's heatsink base is oriented 90 degress to it, there looks to be at least a 50% loss of metal to metal contact. Filling it with AA won't work as well as solid metal. I'd buy the heatsink with just this improvement alone.

The orientation of the second pocket was a fault as I mixed up the heat-sink orientation of the metal contact beneath the MC-E.


Question: Is there a reason for this pocket?

The reason for the second pocket space was intended for the heatsinking compound so that it would not "spill" over the 4 edges of the MC-E provided the correct amount is use. And that required a bit of work. It could have been easy for me to do without it and just merely mill out a square. But it was there to show the detail work given to design this heat-sink accordance to the MC-E architecture.



2. Four wire holes, one in each corner for 2S2P. Heavier gauge wire could be used since you wouldn't have to stuff two of them through one hole. Granted, leads between driver and LED will be fairly short, but I still like to use the heaviest wire wherever possible... especially with the high current as compared to single die emitters. It'll also look pretty cool with leads at all four corners. :cool:

The 4 holes idea was the initial thought. It is definitely more user friendly for the general public in term of choosing wiring configuration for the 4 dies with the MC-E. 2 lead holes idea for this prototype were chosen for the heat-sink to look simple and clean (the MC-E emitter is a fine piece of electronics minimization , and it is the attention of the whole light being the subject, visually it would be unpleasant to see so many item cluttering around it, holes, big gauge wires, big blob of solder etc...

Of course, the new design would be with 4 holes if this is what most people want.

A third idea for those who'd like to make the solder connections underneath the legs as you have, would be to mill some runners along the sides to provide room for the wires. It looks as if having them underneath the legs will prevent the LED's base from contacting the sink at all. No problem for me as I'll be soldering on top, but a nice option for others.

With 4 holes and a small gauge wire, it might not be necessary for the runners grove.

With some tweaks, this could be the perfect MC-E heatsink!

I believe it would be one :D

It looks to like in the last picture, the emitter is not even resting on the sink because the wires won't let it sit down low enough. The four-hole option could fix this.

If you look at the first picture in post #1, without the wires. The emitter not sitting flush with the heat-sink too ;) It was never intended to have it sitting below or flush with bigger pocket.

If you have it sitting too low, it might block out the emitting light from the dome.

With regards,
Jo @ Britelumens

 

[nailbender]

Hi Jo

I wanted to say thanks for the quick shipment, got the MC-E heat sinks and the m6. Will have to do a MC-E and see how they work.

Thanks

Dave

 

[Britelumens]

Hi Jo

I wanted to say thanks for the quick shipment, got the MC-E heat sinks and the m6. Will have to do a MC-E and see how they work.

Thanks

Dave

Hi Dave,



Thanks for updating me.

Due to the lack of room (just 2 holes for the leads), running 2P2S take slightly more effort. And you have to use a smaller wire since the only route is below the for legs like pictured. Else, 4P is perfect. Remember that the emitter does not sit fully flush. Just in case you are unaware.

Also, try to solder the emitter in advance rather soldering it inside the slot. You will have more room then.


If you have problem using it the first unit. And do not mind a short wait. I will make a revise heatsink sometime soon with 4 holes and you can send me back the unused portion and I will send you the new heat-sinks.


Let me know.


With regards,
Jo @ Britelumens

 

[Bimmerboy]

If you have problem using it the first unit. And do not mind a short wait. I will make a revise heatsink sometime soon with 4 holes and you can send me back the unused portion and I will send you the new heat-sinks.

:thumbsup:

Man, this place is so loaded with nice people, and great customer service... some of the many things that make it so nice around here.

Thanks for your responses, and for considering our feedback, Jo.

I've been thinking about this heatsink, and have a few questions if you don't mind. First, What's the outside diameter of the emitter pedestal? Is it the same as most P7 heatsinks? For example, I'd like to use the Fivemega reflector for P7 which has a 15mm hole.

When the next batch is being made, could you do one without the extra pocket under the emitter? I have to think the heat transfer would be better with solid metal contacting the emitter slug.

Speaking of the slug, does it go down far enough to contact the heatsink? It's difficult to tell from the picture if it's actually making contact. Just want to make sure since of the nice things about the MC-E is the electrically neutral slug so one can apply a super thin layer of AA.

Looking forward to my first MC-E Mag mod. :devil:

 

[Britelumens]

Hi Bimmerboy,


Yes, I have made this MC-E heat-sink pedestal just like my P7 heat-sink so that everyone can use it with Kai or FM Mag reflectors. Namely the "P7" reflector group. No headache.


For the upcoming revise MC-e heat-sink. Yes, the inner smaller pocket will be remove and replace with a flat metal surface to faciliate full contact of the MC-e heat-sink right below the emitter. So that members can use a super thin coat of premium epoxy on it to sink those heat away...!!


And will have 4 holes, so anyone can solder the legs of the emitter easily and without sweat :thumbsup:


Lastly, will have a price that will be affordable to all.



With regards,
Jo @ Britelumens

 

[Icarus]

Good job! :thumbsup: Count me in for a few sinks of the revised version.

 

[Bimmerboy]

Awesome! :rock: I'm in for two.

Thanks, Jo. :)

 

[nailbender]

Hey Jo

I put the MC-E into the sink today and will put it in the light tonight. I wired it parallel and underneath simply because it looks more neatly finished. I always wire my MC-E before attaching since it is much easier to solder for me.
If I had one wish it would be to have the large seating pocket just a tiny tiny bit larger since it is easy to drag a small amount of solder onto the ends of the contacts when tinning. Even with that I had no problem getting it to seat and yes I knew it did not sit all the way down.
Excellent product and count me in for some more of the finished product.
I will send a picture when done.

Dave

PS that is some fine soldering and wiring in that macro picture, You must have used 28ga for that.

 

[Britelumens]

Hi Guys,


The revise CREE MC-E version heat-sink is ready ;)
Here is the thread at B/S/T.



With regards,
Jo @ Britelumens


p/s: Dave, sorry I missed your post. Yes, it's a gauge 28 wire. And your "tiny bit" space request has been taken care of in this production version.
If you have problem working with the prototype, send back to me and I will get it replace for you :thumbsup: