D10 Problems

[MManley]

I recently bought a new D10(broke my last one) and I've discovered it has two major flaws.

First, it flickers on momentary and goes from high to low and vice versa whenever it wants to and doesn't always go to high when starting it on low on momentary.

Second, the body eats o-rings.
At first I didn't think of it as a problem and wasnt too bothered by it since I just switched to the body of my other D10, but coupled with the faulty head I now consider it a problem.
The piston doesn't move very smoothly in the body ither(I have re-lubed it) and the spring is lacking in tension.

Should I just contact 4sevens about getting a replacement?

 

[Kamakazikev24]

I would do, You pay good money for that light, money you have had to earn so if your not happy with it get a replacement. I have read nothing bad whatsoever about 7777s so I am sure he will be happy to sort you out.

 

[MManley]

Ok, I'll do that then

 

[BabyDoc]

In most cases, the unpredicted switching to high or low is caused by not applying STEADY, FIRM, pressure on the switch throughout the ramping. To prevent the light from turning off during the ramping be sure you let up on the switch quickly when you are at the light level you want.

If your light was working well at one time, and suddenly started misbehaving, perhaps the contacts need to be cleaned. I strongly recommend using Deoxit RED on all the contacts. One important part of the light that is often missed in this cleaning process, is the contact that is hidden UNDER the movable ring. This contact sits on the printed circuit board under the ring. Apply a tiny amount of the dexoit Red under the ring. GENTLY press down on the ring and turn the ring a couple of times to evenly spread the Deoxit onto this contact. Wipe up the excess and let it dry for a few minutes. This should fix your switching problem in most cases.

The only reason I can imagine that the O rings are being eaten up is either you have the wrong size O rings, or they are not lubricated correctly. I strongly recommend using a thin lubricant like the lubrican oiler you get at Radio Shack. If the O ring is tight this thinner lubricant will not add to your binding problems like a thick lubricant will.

 

[Kamakazikev24]

In most cases, the unpredicted switching to high or low is caused by not applying STEADY, FIRM, pressure on the switch throughout the ramping. To prevent the light from turning off during the ramping be sure you let up on the switch quickly when you are at the light level you want.

If your light was working well at one time, and suddenly started misbehaving, perhaps the contacts need to be cleaned. I strongly recommend using Deoxit RED on all the contacts. One important part of the light that is often missed in this cleaning process, is the contact that is hidden UNDER the movable ring. This contact sits on the printed circuit board under the ring. Apply a tiny amount of the dexoit Red under the ring. GENTLY press down on the ring and turn the ring a couple of times to evenly spread the Deoxit onto this contact. Wipe up the excess and let it dry for a few minutes. This should fix your switching problem in most cases.

The only reason I can imagine that the O rings are being eaten up is either you have the wrong size O rings, or they are not lubricated correctly. I strongly recommend using a thin lubricant like the lubrican oiler you get at Radio Shack. If the O ring is tight this thinner lubricant will not add to your binding problems like a thick lubricant will.

I have to say it would be just 'nice' if nitecore could make a torch that did'nt need cleaning and lubricating all the time just to make it work.....AS IT SHOULD ANYWAY.

 

[BabyDoc]

I have to say it would be just 'nice' if nitecore could make a torch that did'nt need cleaning and lubricating all the time just to make it work.....AS IT SHOULD ANYWAY.

I believe most lights misbehave if the contacts are dirty. However, I really think that Nitecore's models that have this movable ring on a spring are more prone to erratic switching if the contacts aren't clean. The purpose of the ring was to somewhat protect the contact on the circuit board from premature wear because of the PD system. (They recently even added this ring to the latest runs of the NDI even though it is a twisty contact.) The problem with the movable ring is that it doesn't always make EVEN, STEADY contact with contact on the circuit board below it. i.e, because the ring is on a spring, it can make multiple contacts or stick when it is supposed to make a single contact causing all the unexpected switching that the OP reported (in the case of the newer NDIs the light will unexpectedly strobe). Dirt, and oxidation on the underside of the ring might be missed in a casual inspection or cleaning and add to the problem.

 

[Beamhead]

I have to say it would be just 'nice' if nitecore could make a torch that did'nt need cleaning and lubricating all the time just to make it work.....AS IT SHOULD ANYWAY.

I have several Nitecores a few which have been abused and your above statement is not even close to the reality I have experienced.
Do/did you own a Nitecore that caused you problems?

 

[Kamakazikev24]

I have several Nitecores a few which have been abused and your above statement is not even close to the reality I have experienced.
Do/did you own a Nitecore that caused you problems?

Yep, Had THREE!

A D20 with VERY erratic switching, would even turn itself off.

A Extreme SS GDP that stopped working, Then while off got so hot it nearly set fire to my jacket!. Link here..http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=212255

And lastly a EX10 that suffers from the same erratic switching as the first.

ALL I NEED IS A LIGHT THAT WORKS AS IT SHOULD!

Not to much to ask, or is it?

I have a Jetbeam Military on it's way and will maybe get a RA Clicky for a EDC when they reach the UK outlet.

 

[Beamhead]

Fair enough, maybe you need some of my luck.
4 NDI's, 3 EX10's and 1 D10 all flawless.

 

[BabyDoc]

Oh, forgot to mention about the piston not moving smoothly and not having enough tension.
Be sure to remove the piston and clean the old lube off the piston and off of the inside of the body tube. Pay particular attention to the flat area surrounding the button on the top of the piston and its mating area inside the body tube. Use a Q-tip with alcohol to clean this area. Any sticky lube in those areas can cause problems with the piston sticking. Use the the thin RADIO SHACK PTE Oiler lube. The less lube the better, but spread it evenly over the the piston and the O ring. Thicker silicon lubes applied to the O ring make the piston move sluggishly. If you are having problems with the piston not moving enough, be sure that you aren't using a rechargable cell other than the AW brand. Longer rechargables will cause all of the symptoms you are describing. If you are using the correct cells, loosening the head just a bit will give you more piston movement room. In addition, I found that cleaning that split ring and the contact under it may also give you more piston movement and help with correcting what you perceive as too little tension. If that ring is sticking and not springing back all the way, it will seem like there isn't enough tension against the piston.

 

[lebox97]

me too...
I have 6 flavors of nitecore lights - no issues here, I like them and I use them!

I have several Nitecores a few which have been abused and your above statement is not even close to the reality I have experienced.
Do/did you own a Nitecore that caused you problems?

 

[Kamakazikev24]

Fair enough, maybe you need some of my luck.
4 NDI's, 3 EX10's and 1 D10 all flawless.

It should have nothing to do with luck!

I think that when you pay good hard earned money for something you expect it to work.

 

[MManley]

In most cases, the unpredicted switching to high or low is caused by not applying STEADY, FIRM, pressure on the switch throughout the ramping. To prevent the light from turning off during the ramping be sure you let up on the switch quickly when you are at the light level you want.

If your light was working well at one time, and suddenly started misbehaving, perhaps the contacts need to be cleaned. I strongly recommend using Deoxit RED on all the contacts. One important part of the light that is often missed in this cleaning process, is the contact that is hidden UNDER the movable ring. This contact sits on the printed circuit board under the ring. Apply a tiny amount of the dexoit Red under the ring. GENTLY press down on the ring and turn the ring a couple of times to evenly spread the Deoxit onto this contact. Wipe up the excess and let it dry for a few minutes. This should fix your switching problem in most cases.

The only reason I can imagine that the O rings are being eaten up is either you have the wrong size O rings, or they are not lubricated correctly. I strongly recommend using a thin lubricant like the lubrican oiler you get at Radio Shack. If the O ring is tight this thinner lubricant will not add to your binding problems like a thick lubricant will.

It's eating o-rings because the space for the o-ring is not machined deep enough.
It's getting shredded to bits when I screw the head on.

I have also made sure that I apply constant pressure on the piston and I have cleaned all the contacts with red dexoit.