TheInvader
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 109
1. Acquire drain cleaner that contains "sodium hydroxide" or "lye". This is present in most cheaper kinds. Don't get one that has enzymes or other crap in it.
2. Get a plastic cup you can throw away, RUBBER gloves, and safety goggles to prevent chemical burns.
3. A) Place enough drain cleaner, UNDILUTED, in the cup to cover the surface of the part you're deanodizing. This takes less time, and is WAY more aggressive than Solution B. I used this on my tailcap.
B) As suggested below, dilute your drain cleaner 1/20 and increase your time by a mutiple of 20. It will reduce the chance of corroding your aluminum.
4. Then, place the part you wish to deanodize. MAKE SURE ANY RUBBER SEALS ARE TAKEN OFF, including orings. It should be clean, also. Lye doesn't eat dirt, it eats aluminum and heats up too.
5. Check on it periodically with metal forceps or something to grab it with.
6. After a few minutes, the anodizing should be soft and you can wipe it away with your gloves or if it's still tough, use steel wool to scrub the anodizing off.
7. Rinse thoroughly with water for at least a minute or so.
8. You may remove your gloves and dry the part off.
It's not hard and complicated. I used this process to deanodize my Mag tailcap, so it's electrically conductive in the whole cap.
Finshed result: (threads are ugly, but I don't mind. not showing)
It used to be black. Color of the anodizing that rubbed off was actually not surprisingly purple. Now, just to find a red Mag head for my Mag85.
I'd say this probably decreased resistance too, and gave me a few more lumens. I roughened up the flat surface with 330 grit sandpaper to cover up a few marks, and it gave it some character.
2. Get a plastic cup you can throw away, RUBBER gloves, and safety goggles to prevent chemical burns.
3. A) Place enough drain cleaner, UNDILUTED, in the cup to cover the surface of the part you're deanodizing. This takes less time, and is WAY more aggressive than Solution B. I used this on my tailcap.
B) As suggested below, dilute your drain cleaner 1/20 and increase your time by a mutiple of 20. It will reduce the chance of corroding your aluminum.
4. Then, place the part you wish to deanodize. MAKE SURE ANY RUBBER SEALS ARE TAKEN OFF, including orings. It should be clean, also. Lye doesn't eat dirt, it eats aluminum and heats up too.
5. Check on it periodically with metal forceps or something to grab it with.
6. After a few minutes, the anodizing should be soft and you can wipe it away with your gloves or if it's still tough, use steel wool to scrub the anodizing off.
7. Rinse thoroughly with water for at least a minute or so.
8. You may remove your gloves and dry the part off.
It's not hard and complicated. I used this process to deanodize my Mag tailcap, so it's electrically conductive in the whole cap.
Finshed result: (threads are ugly, but I don't mind. not showing)
It used to be black. Color of the anodizing that rubbed off was actually not surprisingly purple. Now, just to find a red Mag head for my Mag85.
I'd say this probably decreased resistance too, and gave me a few more lumens. I roughened up the flat surface with 330 grit sandpaper to cover up a few marks, and it gave it some character.
Last edited:
