think2x
Flashlight Enthusiast
I had this EXACT thought 3 nights ago! If Zebralight made this light in a warm tint I would buy each of my kids one to replace their Quarks and probably buy myself one as well!
Describe your perfect (not available, but realistic design) light(s). I'll start...
- Thread starter mmace1
- Start date
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I had this EXACT thought 3 nights ago! If Zebralight made this light in a warm tint I would buy each of my kids one to replace their Quarks and probably buy myself one as well!
DisrupTer911
Enlightened
I'd love a Fenix LD40 with an XM-L and Oith reflector. Warm tint & 500 lumens.
I don't like jetbeams UI in their pa40. I want a 2 button tail switch.
I don't like jetbeams UI in their pa40. I want a 2 button tail switch.
Swedpat
Flashlight Enthusiast
Something like this I would like:
Take a Fenix TA30 with it's revolving dimmer system, but add a larger reflector. Attach similar rubber handle like Fenix TK20. Drop in an XM-L warm emitter. Make it adjustable for instant changing between regulated for 2AA vs 3CR123.
4 brightness modes. 2AA: 1, 20, 100 and 300lm. 3CR123: 2, 40, 200 and 600lm.
Take a Fenix TA30 with it's revolving dimmer system, but add a larger reflector. Attach similar rubber handle like Fenix TK20. Drop in an XM-L warm emitter. Make it adjustable for instant changing between regulated for 2AA vs 3CR123.
4 brightness modes. 2AA: 1, 20, 100 and 300lm. 3CR123: 2, 40, 200 and 600lm.
On a more general level, I would like a flashlight that did more with battery monitoring. In the old days you could tell exactly what was happening with a battery just by switching a light on. The practice of regulating lights has destroyed that feedback and I want a useful substitute. I imagine a string of tiny LEDs,
maybe a mm each in diameter, laid out somewhere on the light, maybe around the head, that would light up depending on how much charge was left.
Lots of ideas are possible here. Anyway, once the flashlight always knows how many electrons are left in its tanks it could shift the brightness knob
over to a runtime dial. I would find this a lot more useful. Am I being clear here? I have in mind a ring or something that would control brightness through
runtime. If I set the light at "One Hour," the light would throw a beam bright enough to exhaust its batteries in that period of time. I could if I liked dial it to an hour, or ten hours, or a hundred hours, or whatever. I will buy something like that whenever it hits the market.
maybe a mm each in diameter, laid out somewhere on the light, maybe around the head, that would light up depending on how much charge was left.
Lots of ideas are possible here. Anyway, once the flashlight always knows how many electrons are left in its tanks it could shift the brightness knob
over to a runtime dial. I would find this a lot more useful. Am I being clear here? I have in mind a ring or something that would control brightness through
runtime. If I set the light at "One Hour," the light would throw a beam bright enough to exhaust its batteries in that period of time. I could if I liked dial it to an hour, or ten hours, or a hundred hours, or whatever. I will buy something like that whenever it hits the market.
B0wz3r
Flashlight Enthusiast
For me it's pretty simple.
A SC51c with the output and levels of an SC60w.
A SC51c with the output and levels of an SC60w.
I've mentioned it a couple times before, but my perfect light would be a 2xAA tube with side-clicky, with a spot LED on one end and a flood LED on the opposite end. Each end would have a rotary switch with four or five modes (0.3L, 3L, 30L, 300L). The rotary switch would have detents with a solid feel, and would be marked with GITD markings as well as raised bumps, so that you could select your brightness BEFORE turning on the light.
fisk-king
Flashlight Enthusiast
HDS Headlamp. Thats all.
A better "p60" standard would be nice.
I would like some standardised ledboards with "contact pins" on the backside of the board. And different types of driver pills that screws into hosts . The ledboards with 2 "pins" on its backside is plug and play with the driver pills. Plug it in and you got power with no need for soldering or messing with wires.. Since the top side of the ledboard is flat with no wires, you could torque the reflector directly on to the ledboard so it's "sandwitched" and sends heat to both the pill and the reflector. Mixing and matching with different ui's, leds and drivers would be plug and play. Just add some thermal paste and put what you want together. Almost the same as the standard p60 system, but with this standard flashoholics could mix and match leds, driverpills and maby different hosts without soldering. And the heat transfer might improve.
I would like some standardised ledboards with "contact pins" on the backside of the board. And different types of driver pills that screws into hosts . The ledboards with 2 "pins" on its backside is plug and play with the driver pills. Plug it in and you got power with no need for soldering or messing with wires.. Since the top side of the ledboard is flat with no wires, you could torque the reflector directly on to the ledboard so it's "sandwitched" and sends heat to both the pill and the reflector. Mixing and matching with different ui's, leds and drivers would be plug and play. Just add some thermal paste and put what you want together. Almost the same as the standard p60 system, but with this standard flashoholics could mix and match leds, driverpills and maby different hosts without soldering. And the heat transfer might improve.
Doubt these would pop up on the Marketplace, but you never know.
Runs on a single RCR123, can also be fitted with a 1XAA body, runs at least 3 hours at 200 lumens, High CRI 4000-4300K with a tight hot spot and wide spill, tactical switch, 2 programmable modes and quick access to the other modes (kind of a combination of 4sevens and Zebra interface) and the size and shape of a PD20.
