Desperatly looking for driver (updated kennan driver?)

martinmkd2

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HI, I jaust recived driver from kaidomain and it looks little different.

driver.jpg



It looks like that extra resistor (R27) is just parallel to the "old R2" (2R2), and together makes 0,24 ohm, for 1041mA. Is this correct?

I want to make 2 mod light. One mod ~1000mA, and other ~350mA. So I was thinking to remove this two, and connect it with simple switch for one position(1041mA), and on the other position ~0.7ohm for ~350mA. Is this ok?
It is a lot simpler that potenciometar solution, and I only need 2 mods not infinite.

One more question. Does anyone knows how much surface area does CREE R2 needs for cooling on 1000mA. Is 6300mm2 (63cm2, 9.76 in2) sufficient? Is the Aluminium Pill container from DX http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.27551.

If not, what is the max current R2 can handle with this housing?
HI, I jaust recived driver from kaidomain and it looks little different.

driver.jpg



It looks like that extra resistor (R27) is just parallel to the "old R2" (2R2), and together makes 0,24 ohm, for 1041mA. Is this correct?

I want to make 2 mod light. One mod ~1000mA, and other ~350mA. So I was thinking to remove this two, and connect it with simple switch for one position(1041mA), and on the other position ~0.7ohm for ~350mA. Is this ok?
It is a lot simpler that potenciometar solution, and I only need 2 mods not infinite.

One more question. Does anyone knows how much surface area does CREE R2 needs for cooling on 1000mA. Is 6300mm2 (63cm2, 9.76 in2) sufficient? Is the Aluminium Pill container from DX http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.27551.

If not, what is the max current R2 can handle with this housing?
Thanks
 

TorchBoy

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FWIW my board has just a single 0.22 ohm resistor where you have a 2.2 ohm resistor. Where your 0.27 ohm resistor is located, my board is marked R2, but you have more visible board markings than mine does. Maybe all mine are under the components. It looks like your inductor has suffered some damage.

Switching different resistances there is fine. And you mean "potentiometer".

If you're really worried about cooling, download Cree's thermal management PDF and have a read.
 

uk_caver

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It looks like your inductor has suffered some damage.
I seem to get a few arrive like that.
Glueing the fragments from the envelope back into place seems to work OK.
It's not as if the ferrite scraps have to be in perfect contact with the main piece, just occupying the right position in space.
 

martinmkd2

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Those scraps are ferrite? I was thinking is just plastic.
So you think is not going to work properly without the scrap ferrite?

That is correct "Potentiometer", not "potenciometar" :).
Sorry about my poor English.
 

gillestugan

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regarding the potentimeter solutin: you can easily switch the potentiometer to ordinary resistors an chose fixed currents with a switch the same way.

You get lower efficiency by using a higher R2 value but it may be easier and will regulate current independent of output voltage.
 

spun

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rf interference II

the new kai kennan solved my rf dtv problem. tried a bunch of things with the older gen kennans and no go. read of others using the PT4105 boards having rf problems with their cars which many people target this chip for because of its 12v+ handling. one said it cut out their radio channels and another said it disrupted their door locking fob. the only solution i read about was large low esr caps across the input and output. thanks gillestugan for the thorough info on the new dimmer mod, works great. and yes, when you unwrap a kennan from kai do it over white paper so you catch any broken inductor pieces. superglue works for me.
 

Bronx68

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I am also looking for led driver. Prefer a completed assembly but would consider a kit or example design.

Buck configuration
High side current sense so I can have a common ground cathode with other
drivers.
1 amp max current
DC input 6 to 32 volts
Output voltage to about 2 volts less than DC input
Analog and pwm dimming on same pin if possible
Output short circuit protection up to 15 seconds
Very much prefer external FET switch from main controller
Max current trim
 

KevinL

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Just bought one today. Wanted to reconfirm; on the bottom of the driver, the center is battery + and the ring is battery - ? I noticed someone's picture showing a very different wiring topology (driver being wired like a resistor in between LEDs!)

I'm using the standard topology, one set of connections for batt + and batt - and a separate set for LED + and LED -.
 

VegasF6

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I am wanting to place an order for about 30 of these from DX. Before I do, can anyone confirm any changes lately? One forum report claims they may not have the AX2002 IC anymore. Posted by Desolder Nov 2010.
http://www.dealextreme.com/forums/Forums.dx/Forum.26110~threadid.755890
Under the thread "old batch was better."
I suppose I could order a few as a sample and then place a follow up order, but that is so cumbersome, and still no guarantee.
I still have some of these that are clearly marked ax2002, the attempt to scratch out the id was very, shall we say half hearted. I am not sure how to tell if I order more if they are the YB1682 IC mentioned. They are both the same package but the pin configuration is completely different....
 

VegasF6

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To reply to my own bump, this looks significant:
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?p=30908&language=en
Why is it that when the Chinese retailer actually manages to do something right, he can't leave it alone?

Hmm. Perhaps if I read all the way through first. It states that driver came from MCE WF-502B flashlight sku 44270. (Hey I think I might have that light clunking around somewhere)
Hopefully, it isn't indicitive of changes to so called "kennan" update, sku 26110
 
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Microa

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YB1682 is a 2A 380KHz Buck DC/DC Converter IC which is not the same type of IC like AX2002 designed specially of LED driver. If I were you, I wouldn't buy it.
 

HooNz

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Off topic but i felt as waste to start a new thread just for this :fail:
Could anyone figure out this ic number as it is very hard to read and might be more familiar to the experienced eye , it is either

358 in the top rh corner then-
either ez948a or e798a or 794a i have tried all the combinations but no luck.

It appears to be a low/mid power function that outputs to the main driver ic , a Td1410 to pin 5 which is very similar to the AX2002 (from pin 3 of this ic?) , i am trying to disable the "mid" at turn on.

Any assistance would be good , another few hours of poking around with a multimeter trying to figure out how it works might put me away! :faint:

Paul
 
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HooNz

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Off topic but i felt as waste to start a new thread just for this :fail:
Could anyone figure out this ic number as it is very hard to read and might be more familiar to the experienced eye , it is either

358 in the top rh corner then-
either ez948a or e798a or 794a i have tried all the combinations but no luck.

It appears to be a low/mid power function that outputs to the main driver ic , a Td1410 to pin 5 which is very similar to the AX2002 (from pin 3 of this ic?) , i am trying to disable the "mid" at turn on.

Any assistance would be good , another few hours of poking around with a multimeter trying to figure out how it works might put me away! :faint:

Paul

Not that anyone has , but the issue is resolved(as far as info is concerned) , the unmarked ic before the ez one has embedded functions in it so that is the main culprit , not the ez.
Paul
 

Microa

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That was a home made driver. Basically, it was the same design as DX's driver which only modified the IC to AX2003, 3A rated diode and bigger size inductor to handle the higher current.
 

Justin Case

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That's a big diode -- from ON Semi? I've had good success with the Toshiba CMS04 5A-rated Schottky diode. The CMS04 case is nominally 3.8mm long x 2.4mm wide. it also fits within the existing soldering footprint of the usual AX2002 boards. Assuming an ON Semi B34 diode, your diode is nominally 6.86mm x 5.84mm. The width seems like it might make for a tight fit on a 17mm board. What is your board diam? It looks bigger than 17mm (20mm?).
 

Microa

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The diameter of the board is 22mm. The diode size is SMC. Of course, you can replace it by the SMA size diode such as CMS04. I made this driver for testing and I had the diode on hand in my component boxes. The driver was quite hot when it was driven at 2.5A. I made some metal filled viases conducting the heat to the bottom layer as heat sink or thermal contact. It is a very reliable driving IC indeed.

The new home of the driver
 
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Roger555

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The diameter of the board is 22mm. The diode size is SMC. Of course, you can replace it by the SMA size diode such as CMS04. I made this driver for testing and I had the diode on hand in my component boxes. The driver was quite hot when it was driven at 2.5A. I made some metal filled viases conducting the heat to the bottom layer as heat sink or thermal contact. It is a very reliable driving IC indeed.

The new home of the driver


how much for two of them :) ??
 
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