direct drive sst -90 what should the amps be at tail
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Fichtenelch
Enlightened
got similar problems on mine...i could push it with an sanyo 18650 to around 4 amps, on a 3x Sub-C pack it pulls...1.6 to max. 2.5A...do i need more cells, like 4x ni-mh? i think with an ssr-90 the problems should'nt be that big, since you can't fail yourself on the reflow soldering...or getting wires soldered on the small slots.
moviles
Enlightened
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You use thick wires to do the measurement?
i would like to know which is the maximum current draw that you obtain with a battery 26650 fullcharged and the sst-90 with thick wires
I got 9 amp the first 30-60 seconds with aw 18650 imr batteries loaded at 4.23v with thick wires and doing a lot of pressure in the points of electric contact but now I want use 26650 imr batteries
i would like to know which is the maximum current draw that you obtain with a battery 26650 fullcharged and the sst-90 with thick wires
I got 9 amp the first 30-60 seconds with aw 18650 imr batteries loaded at 4.23v with thick wires and doing a lot of pressure in the points of electric contact but now I want use 26650 imr batteries
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irv_usc
Enlightened
I think what moviles was talking about is to use thicker gauge wire on the multimeter for measurement.
flashfiend
Enlightened
I'm getting 4amps in an nb drop-in w/ the 26650 but I'm holding it to the multimeter for at least 30sec. I think a lot of the output is lost to heat because it is not as bright as my nb built Mag using a 26650 which draws only about 3.2amps. There is also less resistance in the Mag setup so while I may be only measuring 3.2A at the tail, the rest of the system may be getting more. I bet you at 2.5amps, your P60 drop-in is still brighter than any of your other similar sized drop-ins.
*both my mag and my P60 use an sst-90 wired in direct drive.
*both my mag and my P60 use an sst-90 wired in direct drive.
moviles
Enlightened
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check the first post of this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=273112
Overdog got 5.85 amp with thin wires , 1x26650 and the sst-90
can someone do the measurement with thick wires , the battery fullcharged and doing high pressure in the points of electric contact?
I maybe will buy this 26650 imr batteries and I want know before the max current draw with the sst-90
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=273112
Overdog got 5.85 amp with thin wires , 1x26650 and the sst-90
can someone do the measurement with thick wires , the battery fullcharged and doing high pressure in the points of electric contact?
I maybe will buy this 26650 imr batteries and I want know before the max current draw with the sst-90
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Taking another look at this with the results I got from my experiment today, it could simply be that the module itself has too much resistance.
First, you have to PM nailbender and ask him to use thick copper wires to straight wire the emitter(it'll be limited to single-mode because of this).
Second, the inner spring in the module actually has quite a bit of resistance. It wouldn't matter in a regulated module, but it's painfully obvious in direct drive. Using the wire-spring trick to solder a thick piece of copper wire to the ends of the springs, you create a shorter and thicker path for the electricity to flow. Doing this kicked up the amperage from 3A to 5A for me.
As a warning:
You need to make very sure the switch in your tailcap can handle the high current. I've burned out my McClicky because I went overboard and did the wire-spring mod on the switch as well, which burned it out inside of 5 seconds.
You also have to realize that your multimeter test leads can be giving you a bad reading because it has a higher resistance(thin, long wires). A more accurate reading can be had with short, thick wires, but I doubt a lot of places sell those.
supasizefries
Enlightened
This was not a drop-in but I got about 9.7-9.9 amps direct driving an sst-90 using 8 eneloops configured for ~4.8V (actual was 5.2V)
Sounds like a pain to charge. But I'm guessing these squishy P60 size switches simply aren't designed to handle such a high current.
And the past month people have been telling me that heat would be the limiting factor.
supasizefries
Enlightened
I'm using FM's battery carrier so charging is simple. This is going in a Mag host.
bigchelis
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have an SST-90 3D Mag running off 4 NiMH C cells (lambda Varapower2000) which is direct drive.
With 4.1v via 3 NiMH D cells = 2.2A at the tail
It does 10A with 4 NiMH C cells, which is how it was designed.
You can use up to 6v on most of Nailbenders direct drive modules. I would try 2 CR123 primaries or get a Fivemega 3C hosts and run 3 NiMH C cells. In fact, you might be able to get the 1.6V C cell rechargeable ones..NiZn.
bigC
With 4.1v via 3 NiMH D cells = 2.2A at the tail
It does 10A with 4 NiMH C cells, which is how it was designed.
You can use up to 6v on most of Nailbenders direct drive modules. I would try 2 CR123 primaries or get a Fivemega 3C hosts and run 3 NiMH C cells. In fact, you might be able to get the 1.6V C cell rechargeable ones..NiZn.
bigC
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I'm not sure about using 2 CR123s in a direct drive setup. DD will pretty much suck out all the juice in no time at all. It's much more cost effective to use rechargables, even if you have to pay over $10 per battery and buy a separate charger for it.
Would running close to the 6v limit increase the brightness at all? Most of the references to running high output on the SST-90 makes no mention of the voltage at all. I simply assumed that running it to the rated 9A would be the most important part.
Still, the tough part is going to be finding a switch capable of handling the current.
The only potential candidate for lights in the P60/D36 size formats I found was the AW softstart switch. While it's nice that it's available, I sorely miss the simple on/off interface.
ti-force
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just wait until you install a switch that can handle the current, then make all of the necessary resistance reductions to achieve the 9+A that you're after; I think you will see just how much of a limiting factor heat can be:thumbsup:.
Well actually, 5-6 amps would have been absolute gold for me. 9 amps was only something I'd be interested in if I planned on shocking the LED to lower the Vf. But if I were able to achieve that kind of current flow with my host, then it would completely defeat the point of doing the burn-in in the first place.
Still, it's kind of interesting that nobody is mass producing custom heatsinks designed to fit the P60 head(at least none that I've seen) when you consider the fact that bigger and better LEDs are coming out each year. There's big bucks to be made there, and nobody is taking advantage of it...what the hey?
I understand that pure copper is a b*tch to machine, but even an aluminum heatsink would be a big improvement over the standard mass produced brass pill. While not as effective as the fatter heatsinks in a maglite, this does open up exciting new possibilities.
flashfiend
Enlightened
I think the heatsink exists with minor modifications, its just a matter of seeing if Moddoo will use it with any of the sst-series LED's.
If you are unsure of what I am talking about, look up Moddoo's Triple XP-G in the B/S/T forums. The heatsink he uses for that looks simply amazing. Supposedly the difficulty with the module is handwiring the 3x LED's. Well problem solved, just use one sst-series LED in direct drive.
If you are unsure of what I am talking about, look up Moddoo's Triple XP-G in the B/S/T forums. The heatsink he uses for that looks simply amazing. Supposedly the difficulty with the module is handwiring the 3x LED's. Well problem solved, just use one sst-series LED in direct drive.
flashfiend
Enlightened
I believe we do.
Do I smell another Moddoo masterpiece?
