Do you know how many watt bulb?

[a4d]

Do you know how many watt bulb is in the Motor Trend 10,000,000 CP light. I know that it's an H-4, but everywhere i look i can only get it's an H-4.

 

[Cigarman]

Probably either a 55W or higher like the 130W hi/lo in the thor.

 

[roopeseta]

My 10 million thor is 90/100w h4.

 

[a4d]

Ya this does have a high low. The low is significantly dimmer then high, but only has 10 mins longer runtime. Runtime is not a concern i only use this to mess around an have fun. Just wanted to see if i could get anything brighter for it.

 

[mdocod]

most of the 10 mill versions have the 90/100 bulbs, if you want to make it brighter, you don't even need a higher wattage bulb,.... you CAN get up to a 100/160 in H4 if you look around, but more watts isn't NOT necessarily going to make it brighter when you factor in voltage loss from load.

The BEST way to make a cheap spotlight brighter is to get more voltage to the bulb. Take the thing apart and solder in some bigger wire and replace the cheap little rocker switches with some high current toggle switches. Go with something like 10-12 gage if possible. The more copper the better.

Another way to make these a lot brighter (that should be used in conjunction with improving the wiring) is to use a NIMH pack to drive it. Most H4 bulbs are designed for automotive use and aren't really all that exciting until around 14V, so they can generally handle a 12 cell NIMH pack (14.4V). Use cells that can handle the current, sub-c size or larger would be best.

Another interesting trick with these, is that they have the bulb wired in "funny" so to speak... As it is now, your low-beam is operating through the resistance of the high filament... Or so, that's how I understand it, that's why it's really dim, the advantage to the way it is wired now is it forces you to either use low or high with no option to run both filaments at the same time.... but if you want to, you can swap some wires around on the bulb and run your low beam at full brightness (it's almost as bright as the high beam just a different beam pattern) and you can also run both beams simultaneously with about a 5 minute runtime, lol.

 

[a4d]

most of the 10 mill versions have the 90/100 bulbs, if you want to make it brighter, you don't even need a higher wattage bulb,.... you CAN get up to a 100/160 in H4 if you look around, but more watts isn't NOT necessarily going to make it brighter when you factor in voltage loss from load.

The BEST way to make a cheap spotlight brighter is to get more voltage to the bulb. Take the thing apart and solder in some bigger wire and replace the cheap little rocker switches with some high current toggle switches. Go with something like 10-12 gage if possible. The more copper the better.

Another way to make these a lot brighter (that should be used in conjunction with improving the wiring) is to use a NIMH pack to drive it. Most H4 bulbs are designed for automotive use and aren't really all that exciting until around 14V, so they can generally handle a 12 cell NIMH pack (14.4V). Use cells that can handle the current, sub-c size or larger would be best.

Another interesting trick with these, is that they have the bulb wired in "funny" so to speak... As it is now, your low-beam is operating through the resistance of the high filament... Or so, that's how I understand it, that's why it's really dim, the advantage to the way it is wired now is it forces you to either use low or high with no option to run both filaments at the same time.... but if you want to, you can swap some wires around on the bulb and run your low beam at full brightness (it's almost as bright as the high beam just a different beam pattern) and you can also run both beams simultaneously with about a 5 minute runtime, lol.

Wow that would be interesting running both at the same time.
After i come back from christmas break i may give the wiring a shot. I have the soldering gun and solder, also i have 12 G auto wire in the back of my truck.