I'm pretty enthusiastic about the Dorcy 1AAA 1LED flashlight - as it gives very good performance for basically a realistic everyday flashlight price.
Please see these threads:
Dorcy 1AAA #2 (vs ArcAAA vs Ultra-G vs Dorcy #1)
Dorcy 1AAA vs. ArcAAA vs. Ultra-G
Dorcy 1AAA Beam adjustment
However recently I noticed that the tail-switch on my #1 Dorcy 1AAA (the blue one) started to become less reliable. Somtimes it would not switch ON when screwed all the way down - other times it may not switch on when the tail switch is pressed (even though the end cap is screwed down enough that the light should switch ON).
I did the usual stuff like cleaning the threads and end of the body tube where the contact is made. Undid the keyring clip and removed the tail-switch button and thoroughly cleaned the "X" shaped contacts and the spring end - using things like WD-40 and other cleaners.......
inside of the tail-switch cap and end of the body tube with battery -
and although the thing would seem to be working OK - eventually it would not light up. Oh, it was a simple fix just loosening the tail cap and using the keyring clip and rotate the button in the cap a little and the light would work fine.
tail-switch button and body tube
for a while the orientation of the button in the cap seemed solve the problem - see the faint ">" mark on the cap pointing to one end of the keyring-clip (I marked it red here) - if I got that to point roughly at the "Taiwan" marking, the light seemed OK - then it was unreliable this morning failing to switch ON when pressed or screwed down.
So from such a very simple mechanism - the spring is in contact with the "-"ve battery terminal which is connected to the "X" contact in the tail-switch, to turn ON - the ends of the "X" contacts make the electrical connection to the end of the body tube
- like I said simple and should be intrinically reliable.
So I am at a loss to why the tail-switch became unreliable.
Any suggestions?
Oh, BTW - in desperation - I tried a different AAA battery
and guess what?
the light now seems reliable - I've only just done this, so can't say for sure if this is the cure -
but it may be that the hole gouged by the spring on the "-"ve terminal/end of the AAA battery (shown in the image above) may be preventing a good contact?
Seems fairly UNlikely to me -
but I'm running out of ideas and clutching at straws.....
Please see these threads:
Dorcy 1AAA #2 (vs ArcAAA vs Ultra-G vs Dorcy #1)
Dorcy 1AAA vs. ArcAAA vs. Ultra-G
Dorcy 1AAA Beam adjustment
However recently I noticed that the tail-switch on my #1 Dorcy 1AAA (the blue one) started to become less reliable. Somtimes it would not switch ON when screwed all the way down - other times it may not switch on when the tail switch is pressed (even though the end cap is screwed down enough that the light should switch ON).
I did the usual stuff like cleaning the threads and end of the body tube where the contact is made. Undid the keyring clip and removed the tail-switch button and thoroughly cleaned the "X" shaped contacts and the spring end - using things like WD-40 and other cleaners.......
inside of the tail-switch cap and end of the body tube with battery -
and although the thing would seem to be working OK - eventually it would not light up. Oh, it was a simple fix just loosening the tail cap and using the keyring clip and rotate the button in the cap a little and the light would work fine.
tail-switch button and body tube
for a while the orientation of the button in the cap seemed solve the problem - see the faint ">" mark on the cap pointing to one end of the keyring-clip (I marked it red here) - if I got that to point roughly at the "Taiwan" marking, the light seemed OK - then it was unreliable this morning failing to switch ON when pressed or screwed down.
So from such a very simple mechanism - the spring is in contact with the "-"ve battery terminal which is connected to the "X" contact in the tail-switch, to turn ON - the ends of the "X" contacts make the electrical connection to the end of the body tube
- like I said simple and should be intrinically reliable.
So I am at a loss to why the tail-switch became unreliable.
Any suggestions?
Oh, BTW - in desperation - I tried a different AAA battery
and guess what?
the light now seems reliable - I've only just done this, so can't say for sure if this is the cure -
but it may be that the hole gouged by the spring on the "-"ve terminal/end of the AAA battery (shown in the image above) may be preventing a good contact?
Seems fairly UNlikely to me -
but I'm running out of ideas and clutching at straws.....