Dorcy K2 Comparison Review

[UnknownVT]

We don't see that many K2 Luxeon based lights around since the advent of the Cree XR-E, and subsequently LumiLED's own Rebels.

This is the Dorcy 41-4297 120 Lumens 6 Watt 3AAA K2 .

Normally I don't favor 3x AAA lights - but this one is interesting - for its claimed 120 lumens output and relative compact/handy size.

Size and head -

This Dorcy has a big head - relatively - and it is capable of focussing.

It uses a 3x AAA battery holder -

but notice the tailswitch is surprisingly longer and has two contact springs - positioned in such a way to make connection with the holder end -

the outer ring is the negative, and the center contact is positive.

Why a positive contact in the middle toward the tail?

the tail-switch glows green when the light is on - to show the battery condition - and it should turn red when the batteries are low.

The switch is a clicky - but it's neither forward/tactical or reverse - it just clicks on or off - I think probably because it is an electronic switch to accomodate the indicator LEDs.

The K2 LED

How does it perform?

Pretty well - it was very bright - so bright that I thought it might rival a Fenix P3D-RB100 (rated at 200 lumens)

For all these comparison beamshots I used the Dorcy K2 on eneloops.

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 on Turbo/Max

well... it obviously isn't - but notice how bright the hotspot is - that's the advantage of a bigger reflector - it allows the light to be focussed to a pretty intense hotspot - that's why I thought it was bright.
Notice the tint - looks sunlight like - it's a lot warmer than even the nicely tinted Rebel 100.

Well actually 120 lumens is pretty bright -
100 lumens was at one time the "holy grail" for almost any flashlight - much less one as compact as this K2.

Just to put things in context - those ultra bright 2x lithium CR123 Xenon lights like the SureFire 6P, G2 and Streamlight Scorpions are about 60 lumens - this Dorcy K2 is twice that output on merely 3x AAA batteries......

But let's compare apples ...

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 on High (rated at 112 lumens)

about even - but the Dorcy K2 hotspot may have it.

vs. Fenix L2D-Q5 on NiMH and High (rated at 107 lumens)

the cooler tint of the L2D-Q5 may help make it seem brighter than it is - but I think the Dorcy K2 has this one........

vs. Fenix L2D-RB100 on NiMH and High (rated at 100 lumens)

I did this one not really for the brightness comparison but for the tint - as this L2D-RB100 I thought had a very nice tint (slightly toward rosey)

Lastly an actual 120 lumens rated light -

vs. Fenix Digital L1D Olive Premium Q5 on NiMH and Turbo/Max (rated at 120 lumens)

close - so the ratings from Fenix and Dorcy are similar - the Dorcy K2 again shows the advantage of the larger reflector in a more intense hotspot.

This is actually a pretty impressive light - despite being 3x AAA - I like the warmer/yellowish tint.

 

[jdong]

The tint is great.

One problem I have with my Dorcy 3xAAA is that regulation is a complete joke (I would suspect entirely lacking). Does that seem to be a problem on yours?
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[UnknownVT]

One problem I have with my Dorcy 3xAAA is that regulation is a complete joke (I would suspect entirely lacking). Does that seem to be a problem on yours?

Your suspicions are probably correct.

3x AAA would give nominally 4.5V on the supplied alkalines - above the Vf of the LED - which means they only need a limiting resistor, instead of any kind of circuitry.

A resistor is much, much cheaper than any electronic circuit -
hence proliferation of the 3x AAA configuration - which is "popular" with manufacturers.

Given that this is probably using only a limiting resistor -
it is likely to be very "efficient" - but this also means that one is probably better off using rechargeable NiMH - which maintain their output until depleted - unlike the gradually and noticable decline of alkalines.

 

[jdong]

I'm also pretty sure (cringe) the internal resistance of three alkaline cells after a few minutes of runtime could negate the need for a limiting resistor....

Which has the FURTHER benefit of initially overdriving the light and making it look really impressively bright

 

[UnknownVT]

I'm also pretty sure (cringe) the internal resistance of three alkaline cells after a few minutes of runtime could negate the need for a limiting resistor....
Which has the FURTHER benefit of initially overdriving the light and making it look really impressively bright

True, with 3x AAA the need for a limiting resistor may not even be necessary.

I have used (read - played with) this light on 3x AAA eneloops (800mAh LSD NiMH) since I got it - and it still shows no sign of dimming (indicator shows green) - the current draw at the tail was initially @ ~700mA, it is just now after some more comparison beamshots @ ~630mA - this again shows the use of rechargeable NiMH is probably preferable, instead of alkalines.

 

[UnknownVT]

Well actually 120 lumens is pretty bright -
100 lumens was at one time the "holy grail" for almost any flashlight - much less one as compact as this K2.
Just to put things in context - those ultra bright 2x lithium CR123 Xenon lights like the SureFire 6P, G2 and Streamlight Scorpions are about 60 lumens - this Dorcy K2 is twice that output on merely 3x AAA batteries......

That last paragraph sounds challenging
so is this Dorcy 3AAA LED light really as bright as a 2x lithium CR123 Xenon based light?

Let's see now -

vs. Streamlight Scorpion (2x CR123 Xenon) -

looks pretty obvious to me that the Dorcy K2 3AAA is quite a bit brighter.
The large difference in color/tint may get in the way of this judgement -
so I removed the color by deSaturation -

How about the BIG gun like a 3x lithium CR123 like the now legendary SureFire 9P?

vs. SureFire 9P 3x CR123 Xenon -

this looks closer (not surprising - since the SureFire 9P on the standard P90 lamp is rated at 105 lumens)

just to be sure, let's remove the color again -

even allowing for the SF 9P spreading out its light wider - I still think the Dorcy K2 is brighter.......

Next up - I'll compare the tints of this Dorcy K2 with the other LED lights shown in the photo.

 

[UnknownVT]

Next up - I'll compare the tints of this Dorcy K2 with the other LED lights shown in the photo.

well... maybe I'm now just talking to myself -

as promised tint comparisons - these are the tints I like the most (I tend to favor warmer sunlight like tints with an avoidance of green or blue) -

vs. Fenix P2Dce Special Edition Q2 a sunny tint but has slight blue-green.

vs. S1801 1w Luxeon 1xCR123 - this used to be my favorite tint - this is my #1 -
(my #2 may look better in real life - but seems to have more green in photos)
this comparison is more difficult due to the large difference in brightness levels -
the Dorcy K2 is probably about 4x brighter.

and repeated here as it is currently my favorite tint - a Rebel 100 in a Fenix L2D-RB100 (kind of rosey tinted) -
vs. Fenix L2D-RB100 on NiMH and High (rated at 100 lumens)

 

[BillMPL]

Interesting light. Very nice review, thank you for all the work you put into this. :thumbsup:

BTW, I'd be interested in knowing the runtime on this light.

 

[UnknownVT]

Interesting light. Very nice review, thank you for all the work you put into this. :thumbsup:
BTW, I'd be interested in knowing the runtime on this light.

I can't/don't normally do runtimes - but I reported the light drew 700mA with freshly charged AAA eneloops,
and ~630mA on the same ones with quite a bit of use.

Having these, my GUESStimate of a runtime is in the region of about ~1.25 hours for these eneloops.

This is not as efficient per lumen as the latest Crees or Rebels -
but it is very good for the amount of light and 3x AAAs.

 

[UnknownVT]

Stairway beamshot -

One can see the tight/concentrated hotspot of the Dorcy K2

Comparison specs -
Dorcy K2 3AAA: 120 lumens (my GUESStimate 1.25hrs)
Fenix L1D-Q5: Turbo Mode: 120 lumens (1.5hrs)
Fenix L1D-CE: Turbo Mode: 90 lumens (1.5hrs)
Fenix L2D-CE: Turbo Mode: 135 lumens (2.4hrs)

 

[JetskiMark]

Hello UnknownVT,

Nice review and beam shots. It looks like it might be a decent thrower. Have you compared it to any other lights for throw?

A coworker just got one and showed it to me this morning. I thought it was pretty decent for the $31 he paid for it. I showed him my new M6-R (3x 17670s & MN61). He asked if I would like to trade.

I found a somewhat amusing and odd review of this light here.

Regards,
Mark

 

[lumenal]

Target is carrying this light now - IIRC for $24.99.

 

[UnknownVT]

Have you compared it to any other lights for throw?

Only on a very informal casual basis.

One can see it definitely out throws any of the Fenix P- or L- series (eg: P3Drb100, L2D-Q5) this is pretty obvious since the head/reflector on the Dorcy K2 is much larger. It also out threw the SureFire 9P (3x Li CR123 Xenon)

Compared to my Dorcy 1 watt 3D (please see Dorcy 1watt 3D - huh? WoW! ) they seem to throw about the same distance (caveat my distances are limited to tree tops and there is ambient light) this is actually very good, since the Dorcy 1 watt 3D out throws my Mag 3D.

 

[kramer5150]

How is the regulation as the NiMH cells deplete? Does it do a reasonably good job at holding its color tint when the cells start to deplete?

 

[UnknownVT]

How is the regulation as the NiMH cells deplete? Does it do a reasonably good job at holding its color tint when the cells start to deplete?

I suspect as discussed earlier (please see Post #3 ) there may not be any regulation per se in this light - it may have a limiting resistor.

I have been using eneloops in the Dorcy K2 - in the range of 0.5-1.0A - the discharge curve is pretty flat until depletion - and drop off is fairly steep (please see SilverFox's NiMh Battery Shoot Out ).

So the brightness level stays about the same (eyeball only) and therefore the tint remains about the same (again allowing for human error)

 

[defloyd77]

Just imagine a TFFC K2 in this light.

 

[Quartermiler]

I got one of these lights from Target for ~$25. Being a relative noob at recent high-output LED lights, I was quite impressed. It blew away my most Bada-- light until then - My Mag 4D.

I have since acquired some more LED lights and have put a terralux drop-in in the Mag, but I still like the Dorcy for it's "searchlight in my fist" performance.

 

[Conrad_Turbo]

I bought five Dorcy 41-4297 as wedding presents and I took them out of the packages to play with them a bit... Three of them put out the same color light, one put out a very distinct white light and one other put out a quite yellow light. I'd speculate quality control at Dorcy at this point with such a variation of five lights. I have a few pictures that I can post up showing the difference.

 

[groutboy_1]

Hi guys, thought i'd throw in my 2 cent worth...i picked up this same dorcy light at a target in ma. ...have to say that this chessy little light isn't half bad...i've been edc-ing this light
for about 3 weeks now...it easily out shines, /out-throws, my q1 cree d-mini,and my q1 cree p3d...i also compaired it with a friends fenix tk10-q5, and it was nearly as bright, and
out-through the tk10...also, in another thread a member had mentioned how to i.d. the types of K2's...i checked under a magnifying glass, and it had the telltale grid pattern...
so,this light is using a K2 tffc flip-chip....i kind of like the newer K2's...the more incandecent
,yellow light output certainly does break up that monocromatic black,and white effect with less shadowing....think i might pick up one of those new 2008 t2 , 125lm inovas....

 

[nikon]

It uses a 3x AAA battery holder -

but notice the tailswitch is surprisingly longer and has two contact springs - positioned in such a way to make connection with the holder end -

the outer ring is the negative, and the center contact is positive.

Why a positive contact in the middle toward the tail?

the tail-switch glows green when the light is on - to show the battery condition - and it should turn red when the batteries are low.

Seems to me that both contacts in the tailcap would have to be negative. I'll guess that there's a negative contact at the top of the battery holder as well as the positive. That's the only way I can see for this circuit to work, since there don't appear to be any unanodized body parts to complete the circuit.