E2DL bezel vs. KX2C - is there a difference in circuitry?

[greenLED]

I've been racking my head about this:

The E2DL bezel and the KX2C have the same output, cell number requirements, and optics.
The E2DL bezel has no markings (other than the "hot" warning), the KX2C is engraved as, well... KX2C.
The E2DL has 2 levels, the KX2C has only one.

I'm thinking the E2DL and the KX2C are the same bezel (except for the 2 levels in the E2DL). This *might* be a potential reason why the early E2DL's were released with a single level.

I don't think the circuits are different between the 2 bezels. I'm thinking the only difference must be a "switch" (an SMT, a solder bridge, different programming?) that enables the 2 levels on the E2DL that is either disabled or removed in the KX2C.

Has anybody taken these bezels apart and compared the circuits?

Any other opinions?

 

[KDOG3]

I see on the Surefire website that the E2DL on high is rated at 1.9 hours and the KX2C is rated at 2hrs. I don't know why there is a difference there if they are the same circuitry.

 

[greenLED]

That's 0.1 hr difference.

We can only speculate whether that's one of SF's famous "updates" in runtime, or an actual difference.

:shrug:

 

[greenLED]

 

[mossyoak]

it's the same thing

 

[Dan FO]

The difference is programing, they can be programed either way at the factory ...... simple as that.

 

[Az_Tibor]

From a logistical standpoint, I would guess that the KX2B and KX2C and E2DL head all use the same circuit, and the KX1 and E1B head use the same circuit, and are just programmed to different levels. Rather than having different programming for the single-mode KX2C, it could be the same dual mode programming, with both modes set to the same 120 lm level. If both modes were the same, you wouldn't notice when it switches from mode to mode.

I've often wondered if someone who had the electronics/programming knowledge I don't have, could take a regular KX2B and reprogram one or both modes, increasing the brightness to that of the KX2C or even higher.

 

[greenLED]

Thanks guys. Do we have visual of the circuits being the same, or are we all going out of logic from what info we have?

I've often wondered if someone who had the electronics/programming knowledge I don't have, could take a regular KX2B and reprogram one or both modes, increasing the brightness to that of the KX2C or even higher.

I guess that's where I was trying to get... hack the KX2C "brains" to activate 2 levels, more levels, tweak the max/min output?
:shrug:

If somebody opens an E2DL bezel, I can try opening a KX2C.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

If somebody opens an E2DL bezel, I can try opening a KX2C.

I will take on that challenge.
Give me a few minutes....
I need to go fire up the torch and put the E2DL bazel in my holder.

Do I win a prize if I get mine open first?oo:..

Now get to that KX2C..

 

[DaFABRICATA]

Now lets see that KX2C...




This is as far as I am willing to take apart at the moment.
These newer Surefire are a lot easier to
take apart than the older models

 

[KDOG3]

Cool. Do *NOT* pull on that circuit board at ALL. Those wires are very delicate and will snap off the board with the slightest tension. Ask yourself how I know......

 

[RyanA]

It is single mode, I guess some people were using their E2dls mounted on firearms. The recoil was causing the battery to lose contact momentarily via inertia, so the light was either turning on and of or the reason for the remedy it was turning off then back on and to the low setting. Probably also to facilitate use with a momentary switch.

 

[greenLED]

I will take on that challenge.
Give me a few minutes....
I need to go fire up the torch and put the E2DL bazel in my holder.

Do I win a prize if I get mine open first?oo:..

Now get to that KX2C..

Dang you experienced modders! :nana:

My KX2C is still in the mail... another week or so.

PM me your addy and I'll see what I can do.

 

[KDOG3]

DaFAB : What was your secret for getting the top part of the head off without ripping the wires off the driver board? I just got my new E2DL today and tried to unscrew the front part of the head to adjust the focus but only the bottom portion of the bezel unscrewed. The heatsink/driver portion stayed put. Argh. I tried heating it up scorching hot with a hairdryer, letting it sit on high for a while to get the heatsink nice and hot. Nothing. Won't budge. I almost ripped the driver off like I did with an E1B awhile back so I decided to stop. The tint on this one is to die for, but the spot is more of a splotch and I'd like to correct that somehow without destroying it! You said something about a torch. You mean one of those little butane torches or something bigger? Does it damage the finish at all?

 

[DaFABRICATA]

KDOG3,
I use a piece of wood 2X4 and drill a hole in the center with a hole saw a little smaller than the OD of the bezel.
I then cut down the center so it is in 2 halves.
Cut with the grain to keep it from spliting.
Place the head in between the two blocks of wood and secure in a vise.
I use a small oxy/accetalyne torch and heat only the threads I want to separate.
Working fast helps the heat stay in the desired area.
I use a heat-resistant glove and unscrew.
It works almost everytime.
There have been a stuborn few that take a few attempts.

If the bottom separates first, push in on the bottom contact to seat it back in the heatsink.
It is much easier to get the top off first and then get the bottom off.
Once the top bezel is removed, there are slots where needle nose pliers can be used to hold the main heatsink while the bottom is unscrewed.

You do need to know when to back off, let it cool and try later.
If you heat it too much stuff can melt and all sorts of bad things.
Either I have been really lucky or my process just works.:shrug:

 

[Hitthespot]

I have both heads and the only difference was the KX2C head was much warmer than my E2DL and of course the KX2C was single mode and no teeth. I did not see any difference in brightness.

I sent my KX2C head off to Milky and had it made into a Creemator. I really like it. My next mod will be to have Milky add a higher bin led when they come available. I'm thinking an R5 or higher. Hopefully by this time next year.

Bill

 

[greenLED]

Bill, do you have the stock board from the KX2C?

 

[Hitthespot]

Bill, do you have the stock board from the KX2C?

Sorry for the late reply, I just checked this thread again. No I assume Milky kept it?

Bill

 

[greenLED]

Thanks, Bill. I sent Scott an e-mail. Hopefully we can get some pics up. Maybe he's got an E2DL circuit as well?

 

[Hitthespot]

Thanks, Bill. I sent Scott an e-mail. Hopefully we can get some pics up. Maybe he's got an E2DL circuit as well?

I would almost bet on it.

I think the programming is different, but will be shocked if the two have different circuitry. I never gave it much thought until you started this thread.

You know it's funny, I just posted in another thread how the E1B is one of my least favorite SureFires, yet the E2DL and KX2C head I own are my favorites.

Bill