Emisar D4

[eh4]

I would pass on the cool white HI D4 if I could repeat the process, they all will get hot pretty quick at the max, and while the cool HI really is the best option for "brightest" with least waste heat, and most light for the longest duration before overheating, for me at least it rendered the most efficient low levels unusable, tint-wise... = no fun.
That said, I can see buying more of them for messing with, along with for having spares, they're such neat lights.
I still think that the D1 is overall the sleeper "best light", but the D4 is More Fun.
I'd missed out on the Fun part before by ordering the cool HI variant, as a low lumens, warm tint fan, but the 3000K XPG3 replacement quad fixed that.

I'm looking forward to playing around with some remote head - heavy gauge wire - parallel battery caddy arrangements, to turn the D4 into a headlamp... using the 5$ 18350 battery tube as an easy sacrificial mod material.
The D4 head would make for a number of good lamp options really, kinda pricy as a 40$ lamp head, but still, lots of options...
Get an AC to DC power supply and rig it to show the driver a fully charged battery, saw and grind down an 18350 tube as an adapter and give it more heat sink, attached to one of those bendable, flexible, steel cable necks; it would make for a neat lamp, especially those ones that end with a clamp for a base, clamp it to a bamboo cutting board, it would make an awesome reading light / work light with a floody TIR optic.

 

[Agpp]

I would pass on the cool white HI D4 if I could repeat the process, they all will get hot pretty quick at the max, and while the cool HI really is the best option for "brightest" with least waste heat, and most light for the longest duration before overheating, for me at least it rendered the most efficient low levels unusable, tint-wise... = no fun.
That said, I can see buying more of them for messing with, along with for having spares, they're such neat lights.
I still think that the D1 is overall the sleeper "best light", but the D4 is More Fun.
I'd missed out on the Fun part before by ordering the cool HI variant, as a low lumens, warm tint fan, but the 3000K XPG3 replacement quad fixed that.

I'm looking forward to playing around with some remote head - heavy gauge wire - parallel battery caddy arrangements, to turn the D4 into a headlamp... using the 5$ 18350 battery tube as an easy sacrificial mod material.
The D4 head would make for a number of good lamp options really, kinda pricy as a 40$ lamp head, but still, lots of options...
Get an AC to DC power supply and rig it to show the driver a fully charged battery, saw and grind down an 18350 tube as an adapter and give it more heat sink, attached to one of those bendable, flexible, steel cable necks; it would make for a neat lamp, especially those ones that end with a clamp for a base, clamp it to a bamboo cutting board, it would make an awesome reading light / work light with a floody TIR optic.

HI is the most efficient at high levels. It is the least hot while having the highest output.
See:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55306

 

[eh4]

HI is the most efficient at high levels. It is the least hot while having the highest output.
See:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55306

Cool!

 

[iamlucky13]

Now if we can only make sense of why one would buy 5 d4's

Because Emisar doesn't make a D20.

 

[Keitho]

Now if we can only make sense of why one would buy 5 d4's

Yeah, totally. With 10 host colors, 7 LED choices, and 3 battery tube lengths, I also don't know how five could possibly be enough.

 

[aginthelaw]

Because Emisar doesn't make a D20.

Yet!

 

[easilyled]

How about behavior, or yoghurt? Looks more interesting so that's how some of us write it. And calling a flashlight torch?Thanks to the Brits, yeah?

Manual for the Minibeast: (page with diagram of user interfacej

https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4t...7.html?zenid=fe769b5827f71303914a18049c5e4016

You have to admit that at the high drive levels we like to power our lights at that "torch" is a more appropriate term than the wimpy "flashlight"

 

[MadAmos]

I received the D4 ti I ordered on Dec 31st. I got the raw version XP-L Hi V3 1A 6500k and so far I am pleased. The machining and feel are perfect. I like the flat top cut knurling and the balance is nice the weight of the Ti body works nicely with the copper head.

I have compared it to my Vihn D4 that has an aluminum body and the ramping is almost exactly the same when turned on in high with freshly charged Sony VTC6A's.

I also ordered the 16340 tube and will try it out once I get a couple high output cells, probably the Efest 700 Ma unprotected, but I am open to suggestions.

 

[Fireclaw18]

...I also ordered the 16340 tube and will try it out once I get a couple high output cells, probably the Efest 700 Ma unprotected, but I am open to suggestions.

It's not a 16340 tube. It's an 18350 tube. 18350 cells are the same width is 18650. They're slightly wider than 16340. While you could use a 16340 in the Emisar D4 with shorty tube, you're better off using an 18350 for extra power.

The good news is there is one 18350 that towers above the rest in performance. It outperforms EVERY 16340 and 18350 cell by a huge amount. That cell is the Aspire 1100 mAh 18350. It's a high-drain cell for maximum performance and its tested capacity really is 1100 mAh. It even outperforms the larger 18500 cell, and will give you performance close to that of a quality 18650.

Aspire 1100 mAh 18350s may be hard to find, but they are hands-down the best choice of cell for the D4 if you're not using full-sized 18650s.

 

[Tachead]

It's not a 16340 tube. It's an 18350 tube. 18350 cells are the same width is 18650. They're slightly wider than 16340. While you could use a 16340 in the Emisar D4 with shorty tube, you're better off using an 18350 for extra power.

The good news is there is one 18350 that towers above the rest in performance. It outperforms EVERY 16340 and 18350 cell by a huge amount. That cell is the Aspire 1100 mAh 18350. It's a high-drain cell for maximum performance and its tested capacity really is 1100 mAh. It even outperforms the larger 18500 cell, and will give you performance close to that of a quality 18650.

Aspire 1100 mAh 18350s may be hard to find, but they are hands-down the best choice of cell for the D4 if you're not using full-sized 18650s.

The KeepPower 1200mAh is readily available now too and has similar performance. Here it is...

https://www.illumn.com/batteries-ch...imr18350-1200mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

 

[MadAmos]

The KeepPower 1200mAh is readily available now too and has similar performance. Here it is...

https://www.illumn.com/batteries-ch...imr18350-1200mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Thanks to both of you I did mean 18350 but I did not know about the Aspire cells so I now have four on order that have the 1100 mAh wrappers.

The KeepPower cells look good as well and I will pick up a couple to try soon.

I plan on using 18650 cells (Sony high drain) most of the time but like the idea of the ultra compact config.

 

[Fireclaw18]

My guess is the KeepPower are just rewrapped Aspire cells.

 

[Fireclaw18]

I plan on using 18650 cells (Sony high drain) most of the time but like the idea of the ultra compact config.

If you want the absolute brightest possible performance on a full cell use Sony VTC5A. Max output will decline quickly though and after a little bit output would be higher on a VTC6.

 

[MadAmos]

If you want the absolute brightest possible performance on a full cell use Sony VTC5A. Max output will decline quickly though and after a little bit output would be higher on a VTC6.

I have quite a few VTC6A cells that I have been using with my other D4 lights so that is not a problem. I rarely use them at the highest setting just an occasional quick burst but I enjoy the ramping UI and the reliable access to the lowest setting.

 

[Mapster]

It seems as though everyone jumped on the raw Ti... I went to order one and they are out of stock :/ I hope they get restocked soon!

 

[easilyled]

The KeepPower 1200mAh is readily available now too and has similar performance. Here it is...

https://www.illumn.com/batteries-ch...imr18350-1200mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be readily available in the UK.
Do you know if illumn ships to the UK?

 

[easilyled]

My Emisar D4 Ti arrived but the extra 18350 tube that I ordered didn't. I've asked it to be sent on.

I like the light and it seems excellent value for money. Its my first Emisar of any kind.

I can't expect it to have the same feel as a custom light but the threads of the tailcap do appear to be quite gritty. Not sure if anyone else has noticed this?

 

[Tachead]

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be readily available in the UK.
Do you know if illumn ships to the UK?

No problem👍.

I am not sure but they are really nice guys so, just shoot them an email and I am sure they will get right back to you.

 

[Rifter]

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be readily available in the UK.
Do you know if illumn ships to the UK?

Not sure about the UK specifically but i do know they ship internationally as im in Canada and received an order from them just yesterday. They were even nice enough to forget to put the full amount on the customs declaration so i did not owe duty on the order. I have always had fantastic service from illumn. Would recommend them.

 

[archimedes]

....
I like the light and it seems excellent value for money. Its my first Emisar of any kind.

I can't expect it to have the same feel as a custom light but the threads of the tailcap do appear to be quite gritty. Not sure if anyone else has noticed this?

Although I don't (yet) have an Emisar in Ti, I have had many different titanium flashlights, both custom and production.

Although there are exceptions, generally the threads on the customs are rather smoother than those compared with the mass production items, and usually substantially so.

The issue is that Ti is prone to galling, and any minor imperfections (variances, tolerances, etc) in the threading will tend to "grab"

Appropriate lubrication will help, sometimes quite a bit, and normal wear does tend to "break in" the threads (at the expense of microscopic material loss, associated thread wear, and in extreme cases thread sloppiness)

I think that is mostly what discolors the lubricants as they darken ... more metal particles than actual "dirt" in many cases.

In any case, I find that the Krytox tends to darken more slowly after the first few changes :shrug: