Emisar D2 first impressions

[jon_slider]

I also use nyogel 760G.. Ive had some issues with using too much, and having it interfere with the contact between the end of the body tube and the tailcap contact ring. I now wipe off any excess on the end of the body tube and the end threads, as well as using a qtip to clean the contact ring in the tailcap.

to my eye the O ring does sit in a groove below the threads.. but I dont see very well, I could be mistaken

Ive not had any issue w Nyogel drying out and sticking to the O ring, so not sure why your O ring broke.. I hope it does not happen again

 

[sim1tti]

The O-ring does butt up right against the threads, it is not in its own separate groove like most other lights. This is a recipe for failure. I always add some lube (Nyogel in this case) when I receive the light, so O ring and threads were lubed.

I also use nyogel 760G.. Ive had some issues with using too much...I now wipe off any excess on the end of the body tube and the end threads, as well as using a qtip to clean the contact ring in the tailcap....

to my eye the O ring does sit in a groove below the threads.. but I dont see very well, I could be mistaken

Mine does not have a grove for the o-ring. Buts up against threads like @cave dave. Looking as thought the starter thread in the tail cap itself may contribute to this. Now tempted to use some fine grit on the very last bit of each thread as a proactive measure.

Maybe a bit controversial, but I prefer a tiny bit of silicone grease (Danco) over Nylogel for tailcaps. Feels a little more viscious.

 

[sim1tti]

I also enjoy sharing info.. thanks for participating

Regarding the D2, I have discovered I am able to use the Protected Button Top USB rechargeable Lumintop 14500.. which adds a recharging option I find useful when traveling.

all 4 batteries pictured work in my D2, the two on the left are button tops but no longer than 50.1mm, the other two are flat tops as short as 48.7mm:
View attachment 48558

I came across another thread where you mentioned cutting the tail cap spring to allow button-tops to fit. Will that USB rechargeable Lumintop 14500 work in your D2 if you don't cut the spring or use a shim? Are there any downsides to cutting the spring?

I enjoy my D2 and am thinking of picking up another, but really dislike how picky it is about batteries. I also wish the button was either prouder or easier to engage, but no getting around that one.

 

[jon_slider]

A shim is a good option to increase the length of the battery tube so it can fit the Lumintop 14500. The only downside is that the edge of the tailcap O ring will be visible. (but still seals)..

I ended up buying a second D2, and made no changes to sprng nor do I use a shim. I just accepted that I must use short batteries, such as the flat top Vapcel F12. I also make a habit of changing the battery by removing the head instead of the tailcap. I just keep the tailcap shut tight all the time.

 

[sim1tti]

A shim is a good option to increase the length of the battery tube so it can fit the Lumintop 14500. The only downside is that the edge of the tailcap O ring will be visible. (but still seals)..

I ended up buying a second D2, and made no changes to sprng nor do I use a shim. I just accepted that I must use short batteries, such as the flat top Vapcel F12. I also make a habit of changing the battery by removing the head instead of the tailcap. I just keep the tailcap shut tight all the time.

Thanks. I'm probably going to recoil the spring. A more zen person would accept the limitations. I'm just a little too bothered. The run times are not that great with the flattops in the D2, and that combined with its pickyness for specific cells limits how I would use it for other applications.

The nice thing about the Lumintop 14500, aside from being rechargeable, is that it is rated 4A. That's even more than the F12. Find that if using both channels at the same time, the D2 on turbo performs better with the 10A F10 than the F12.

While certainly faster for swapping the batteries, I don't like removing the head (opposed to the tail cap) for a couple of reasons.

While there are far fewer threads, making it faster, the threads on the D2 are so fine that it makes me a bit nervous because of how robust the springs are. I feel like I'm going to strip the threads on the head while it's under tension, whereas the tail cap has so many threads that I can get that initial set/unset and feel fine about repositioning my hand for the rest of the job. I do wish there were fewer threads on the tail cap and more on the head. The ratio is kind of nuts. Ideally, the threads would just be chunkier.

Also, because of the force behind those springs, I invariably trigger the flashlight on and off while putting on the head under tension. Sometimes this happens in a way as to reprogram a setting in some way.

The D2 is a really amazing light with some characteristics that make it a real standout. The issues it has have such easy fixes, seemingly.

 

[jon_slider]

The issues it has have such easy fixes, seemingly.

Ive heard that Hank will sell the head with just a brass button, instead of the spring, in order to be able to use Button tops.. but Ive never confirmed if that is true

 

[sim1tti]

Ive heard that Hank will sell the head with just a brass button, instead of the spring, in order to be able to use Button tops.. but Ive never confirmed if that is true

Could just clip the spring off. The brass button is there. No going back though, and I'm skeptical it would do much good....

The spring at the head creates more tension for sure, but compresses flush to the brass button. I'm certain of this. It seems this spring would enable using a shorter cell without preventing longer cells, but not the other way around, no? The caveat is that spring might conform around the "nipple" of a button top protected cell.

The unmodified tail spring on the other hand, does not compress flush with the mounting plate. It definitely seems to be creating a restriction. This would seem to be confirmed by your modified spring allowing for something like that Lumintop 14500.

The test would be to try a flat top or "broad-nippled" button top 14500 the same length as that Lumintop button top (50.1mm) on an unmodified tail spring cap. If it works, it means a narrow button top nipple + the head spring is a problem combo. Unfortunately I don't have a flat top that has that length. Something like a this UltraFire cell.

Do you have a cell like that? 50mm, flat top or broad-nippled button top?

 

[jon_slider]

I dont want to risk doing any more battery tests in my D2. That will be up to you. My position on the D2 Battery situation, is I use short flat tops.

 

[sim1tti]

I dont want to risk doing any more battery tests in my D2. That will be up to you. My position on the D2 Battery situation, is I use short flat tops.

I tightened the coil of the tail cap spring. It now works with a 50.1 mm long protected button top. Gotta crank it awfully hard though. Glad to know it works, but I believe you were right to also shorten the spring. Think I will do the same.

 

[sim1tti]

Shortened the spring today. @jon_slider , thanks for figuring this out. With the reduced tension, longer protected cells lock in with little effort and there is still plenty of springiness to accomodate the short flat tops.

 

[jon_slider]

Shortened the spring today. @jon_slider , thanks for figuring this out. With the reduced tension, longer protected cells lock in with little effort and there is still plenty of springiness to accomodate the short flat tops.

Congratulations! ;-)
Very happy to hear you made it work.

here is an idea I have not tested, not sure if spring height is determined by a shelf in the tailcap, of if the magnet is what supports the spring pcb..

maybe try removing the magnet in the tailcap, and check if the spring sits lower