Fenix L0D-CE Comparison Review

[Lite_me]

Xygen you are probably correct on that however it would be perfect it seems for the circuitry and limitations of this light......maybe using this same design on a 2 AAA body would hit that "sweet spot" so to speak. I am also looking forward to my LOD-CE however I am trying to hold out until the natural color is available....I have had much better results with the finish holding up on the natural versions. I am giving it a week and then if not available the stress of waiting will win me over...hehe

Robocop: Are you just waiting for them to show up on the (Fenix-Store) web site? I contacted 4sevens about the possible availability of Natural finish L0P CE's and this is what he had to say.... this was on Tue. Jan 30th....

Dennis,

I would not hold your breath. Fenix is building their own finishing plant to do all their
finishes and until then they will not be releasing new natural lights. My guess is
late February at the earliest - if they do it at all.

Regards,
David

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I ordered some Black ones.

 

[Lite_me]

Part 3 - "Practical" Stairway beamshots -

on 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeable 10440 (NOT recommended for regular use) -compared to the fabulous P1D-CE I thnk we may have a new stairway champ?

Notice that the P1D-CE has a noticeably more concentrated/brighter hotspot - so it will definitely out-throw the L0D-CE. The L0D-CE has a much smaller reflector - which spreads its light out more - hence brighter side-spill making it better for the stairway shot.

This is insane out of a single AAA light. Even at 3.7v.
I'm just thinking back when I used to carry a Solitaire around. How things have changed!

 

[Glen C]

Unknown, thanks for the stair shots. Your reviews have tipped me over the edge and I have bought one

 

[paulr]

After having it just over 24 hours I'm insanely pleased with this little marvel. It's a real technical breakthrough, even more than the L1p was. The small incandescent flashlight is now an obsolete device except for cost reasons, and even those will probably diminish pretty soon.

I ordered the L0D/CE because I had temporarily lost my L1p (now found) and needed a replacement and thought I'd try an AAA model as a change of pace. But I think it obsoletes the L1p and I don't feel much need for an L1D-CE. I think Fenix's next light should be a long-throw "turbohead" version of the L2p, using a Cree emitter and a 30mm or so reflector, with an interchangeable body tube to run on 1AA at reduced max lumens if necessary. The turbohead L2p won't need multiple modes or brightnesses since that's what the L0D-CE is for. If it's to have a dim mode at all, it should use three wideangle 5mm or 3mm leds separate from the high power emitter, like a Surefire A2.

4x7, if you're reading this, can you cancel my still-pending (and unpaid) L0D order, #9453? That's the one I entered incorrectly for snail mail payment. I later entered a 2nd order with Paypal which has been fulfilled and that's the light I'm using now.

 

[EsthetiX]

This is insane out of a single AAA light. Even at 3.7v.
I'm just thinking back when I used to carry a Solitaire around. How things have changed!

I happen to know several people who still carry solitaires around lol

 

[ernsanada]

I happen to know several people who still carry solitaires around lol

You need to flash the LOD CE at them and convert them over to the "Shiny Side!".

 

[EsthetiX]

You need to flash the LOD CE at them and convert them over to the "Shiny Side!".

...dont have one yet

 

[BobbyRS]

Hey don't slam the solitaires. I actually still have one. Of course my sons like to play with it though. I thought about swapping the bulb out for a led upgrade, but just can't seem to pull the trigger on the costs. I would rather use that money for something new.

UnkownVT, again great job on the information and pics. You are making it incredibly hard for me to resist the L0D CE. I have a Millermod L0P 3-Stage, I am still wondering if the L0D CE is still really worth the money for me to upgrade to.....

 

[UnknownVT]

Part 4 - L0D-CE on primary alkaline AAA vs. Fenix P1D-CE on primary lithium CR123A -

not exactly a fair fight... but hey -
Stingray wrote: "How does the LOD-CE compare to the PID-CE with both on primaries"
patients(sic) is a virtue - or just people detained in hospital?

L0D-CE on alkaline vs. Fenix P1D-CE on primary CR123A
both on Medium

like I said not a fair fight - obviously the P1D-CE is brighter......

L0D-CE on alkaline vs. Fenix P1D-CE on primary CR123A
both on High

as above.....

So is the Medium of the P1D-CE as bright as the high on the L0D-CE?
L0D-CE on alkaline High vs. Fenix P1D-CE on primary CR123A Medium -

in a word yes - the P1D-CE on Medium is brighter than the L0D-CE on high... but this is still crazy/amazing -
the L0D-CE is a single AAA alkaline powered light.

Notice the beam quality of the L0D-CE compared to the P1D-CE.

 

[Mike abcd]

I've done a couple of run time tests on high on the L0D CE using Maha Powerex 1000 mAH with two different batteries.

Both were fully charged on a BC-900, left on the charger for 1-2 hours after the fast charge completed and tested within 15 minutes after being removed. Unloaded initial voltage on both was 1.47 V.

Both tests gave ~66 minutes to 50%. Output dropped to about 85% in the first 8 minutes and then ran pretty flat until it started to roll off more quickly a little before the 1 hour mark.

Rough measurements; 81% at 40 minutes, 79% at 50 minutes. 77% at 55 minutes, 74% at 60 minutes, 50% at 66 minutes.

Since over discharging a single NiMH cell has very little effect on it, I kept it running in one test and found that the level started dropping a little more slowly after it hit ~30% at ~70 minutes. At 75 minutes, it was down to ~11 %. At that point, I switched it to the low setting and output dropped to ~5% of the initial high reading. At about 85 minutes it was at ~3%. At that point I took it and walked around my dark house for about 5 minutes. It was pretty dim but still enough to find your way around in doors and slightly brighter when switched to medium or high.

I got around 380 lux @ 1 meter initially but that's only a rough reading. It might be higher and I plan to check it again being a lot more careful with measuring the distance and alignment than I was in the 2 run time tests.

Based on these run times on high and some rough output measurements on all 3 levels I posted, I'd guess 3 hours on medium and 6 hours on low would be fairly safe bets.

Overall I'm impressed by both the L0D CE run times and the Maha Powerex 1000 mA AAA batteries.

Mike

 

[paulr]

Mike, I'd be interested in alkaline and L92 lithium primary tests if you have some of those cells around. Or I guess I could send you some, or donate a few bucks towards your buying some.

My own informal test with an Eneloop AAA (mfgr date 8/2006, "800 mAH"): played with the light for some indeterminate amount of time, then ran it on "high" til it was noticably dim (about 30 minutes). Then turned off the light and let it rest a little, but it was still pretty dim on all settings and got dimmer rather quickly, i.e. no long "tail" or extended operation at low power, a little bit disappointing but ok. I then put the cell on my BC900 charger (measured initial voltage: 0.86V) and it accepted 850 mAH of charge which means the cell capacity is probably closer to 700-750 mAH. Still pretty good, and the low self-discharge claim seems to be true, I probably got at least 45 minutes of "high" runtime from the 8/2006 dated cell straight from the package without my charging it up first.

I have some Titanium "1000 mAH" that I think I measured at 900 mAH while back, pretty impressive, so maybe I will switch to those (self-discharge not an issue since I expect to use this light a lot). I also have some Soshine "900 mAH" which tested at around 600 mAH, heh.

 

[Moat]

You would be stuck with that 8-10% loss on high.

Thanks, Doug. Probably not worth the 8-10% "hit", then.

My thoughts (probably erronous, for a variety of reasons!) were based on what I percieve as a "slow" (non-instantaneous) ramp-up/down of brightness, when switching on/off various 1AAA lights I own (Dorcy, ARC, Gerber), and thought it may have to do with a stored charge in the SMT caps used in those circuits (IIRC - a SMT cap soldered directly across the cathode/anode legs of the ARC's LED, for example). I might just be percieving the resistive "ramp" of the mechanical switch itself, tho - vs. the "choppier" PWM switching of, say, a LOD-CE. Or a chemical hesitation in the batteries' current delivery. Or...?

Excellent review, Vincent - makes it difficult to resist picking up one of these little dazzlers, and tinkering myself! Sorry if I dragged the thread a bit off-topic.

 

[paulr]

I'm not sure why an 8-10% hit would be needed -- does the P1D CE have an 8-10% hit? I'm presuming that the converter has a power mosfet output stage. There should not be a diode involved. Just monitor the total amount of charge going into the capacitor.

 

[Doug S]

paulr: depending on what the stock output stage looks like, you may be correct.

I'm not sure why an 8-10% hit would be needed -- does the P1D CE have an 8-10% hit? I'm presuming that the converter has a power mosfet output stage. There should not be a diode involved. Just monitor the total amount of charge going into the capacitor.

 

[Doug S]

.

I might just be percieving the resistive "ramp" of the mechanical switch itself, tho - vs. the "choppier" PWM switching of, say, a LOD-CE. Or a chemical hesitation in the batteries' current delivery. Or...?

One way to sort this out is to tie it to the end of a couple of feet of string and have an assistant twill it at a fast rate in a dark room. It should be more evident whether the PWM is a sharp on/off or not.

 

[Mike abcd]

I'd be interested in alkaline and L92 lithium primary tests if you have some of those cells around. Or I guess I could send you some, or donate a few bucks towards your buying some.
...

If I get a chance, I'll waste an Alkaline for you I don't expect it to be pretty on high though... Just be warned I only have some energizers that have been in the fridge for 2 years or more or some "off labels" I got from Advanced Auto at 24 for $4.88 that seem fine where I use them(remote controls, etc) but I've never tried to test.

I've never tried a Lithium "1.5 V" primary and am unlikely to although I've been tempted to throw a set in my SL PP 4AA Lux for emergency use only. For the EDC use the L0D CE will see, the higher capacity NiMH AAA will work well for me. I top them off a few times and then cycle them to avoid "memory effects" and always leave the house with a battery close to or fully charged.

Mike

 

[UnknownVT]

paulr wrote: "My own informal test with an Eneloop AAA (mfgr date 8/2006, "800 mAH"): i.e. no long "tail" or extended operation at low power, a little bit disappointing but ok. "

I think this is pretty typical of NiMH discharge -
they seem to be able to dump their power/current close to the peak until depleted (similar to lithium battery behavior)

paulr wrote: "I have some Titanium "1000 mAH" that I think I measured at 900 mAH while back, pretty impressive, so maybe I will switch to those (self-discharge not an issue since I expect to use this light a lot). I also have some Soshine "900 mAH" which tested at around 600 mAH, heh."

WalMart has some "off-brand" Sakar 1000mAh NiMH rechargeable AAA @ $4.95 for a pack of 4 - might be worth checking out since they are so inexpensive.

They also have the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid (low self-discharge) AA (2100mAh) and AAA (800mAh) both @ $8.95 for 4-pack.

 

[paulr]

The Soshines were somehting like $3.99 for 4 from Emilion and I expected them to be way below their specification and sure enough I wasn't disappointed. I'm still using them in my mp3 player and they're fine for that, I just have to charge them a little more often than I'd have to charge higher capacity cells, no big deal. The nicest thing about them is they came in a plastic snap case like the larger cases that Thomas Distributing sells/gives away for four AA cells. Somehow it's harder to find cases like that for AAA's. Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced the one I got with those Soshine cells. It's around the house someplace (I think) so hopefully it will turn up.

Mike_abcd, I bought a 4-pack of L92 AAA lithium primaries a while back and have used one of them, leaving three, of which I think I'd like to hold onto two (one as a backup for the L0D and one for hmm, maybe backup for the backup--originally I'd thought to put it in my Peak Matterhorn 3-led but now I'm realizing that light is pretty much obsoleted by the L0D-CE). So I'm happy to send you the remaining one if you want to test it. These have an initial voltage of about 1.7V so I'd be interested to see if they start out brighter than the NiMH cells and if they stay that way.

(further) Hmm, it would really be best if you could test an L92 on "high" to exhaustion and test another at various settings. I guess I could send two of my remaining three, or just donate towards your buying a pack. They're $8.99 per 4-pack at batteryspecialists.com including shipping.

 

[paulr]

Close-up of LED die from my L0D-CE:

 

[ratbert42]

Hey don't slam the solitaires. I actually still have one.

I use mine to carry a spare AAA for my Arc AAA-P.