Fenix L0D Seoul SSC U-BIN

[mpc]

I have replaced the Luxeon III Led in my Fenix L0D with a U-Bin Seoul SSC from Dealextreme.

Has anyone done this and posted beamshots yet ?

If not, I will post some later. I have a brand new L0D-CE to compare it to

Thanks Matt

 

[Strauss]

I haven't done this, but am interested to see the results as I have a luxIII LOD on my keyring Can you describe your process? How did you open it up?

 

[nanotech17]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=154595&highlight=NANOTECH17

post #7

 

[mpc]

I didn't have to boil my L0D. Perhaps mine had less glue on the threads.

The most important thing, is if you are going to attempt a brute force twist, keep the body screwed into the head. Otherwise you may squash the wall of the head as it is quite thin.

The emitter is just a straight swap. Avoid the wires in the head. Heat the small legs of the Lux III, as soon as the solder melts - suck it away with a solder sucker device - or you could use braid I suppose.

Put your thumb at the end of a knife blade only exposing the very tip of the blade. Insert under the Lux III and twist, be careful not to follow through as you may cut the small wires next to the emitter.

Clean out the waste thermal paste from the head.

Shorten the legs of the Seoul emitter using wire cutters. Don't make them too short - they should reach the outer diameter of the L0D head.

Cover the depression in the L0D head with a small amount of arctic alumina epoxy.


On the top of the head there are two sets of contacts, connected to two wires. One is red, the other black. If you look into the dome of the led, you will see two bond wires (gold coloured). Turn the led until the bond wires line up with the blob of solder at the end of the black wire. Press down gently on the led (not too hard) to seat it in the epoxy.

I waited 6 hours for the epoxy to harden.

Bend down the legs of the emitter until they close to (or touch) the contact around the rim of the head. Solder in place.

Gently screw the head cover back on, it should go to full tightness with no problems. The hole in the reflector does not need to be altered.

All done !

 

[EngrPaul]

Here's my beamshots:

STOCK L0D-CE

L0D Modded to USW0H, using .015" copper shim

 

[mpc]

Thanks for the beamshots engPaul.

Perhaps my L0D-CE will find its way to B/S/T
I just like the beam of the SSC more.

 

[mpc]

A quick question EngrPaul:

I think that the standard L0D with the SSC mod, is not quite as bright as the L0D-CE
I know that the reflector in the standard L0D gives a wider flood than the L0D-CE, but even accounting for this does the circuit in the L0D-CE give more current to the LED.
So would a L0D-CE modded to SSC give more output than a standard L0D modded to SSC

Thanks

 

[EngrPaul]

I have the feeling they are the same circuit, but can't be sure because I haven't made any measurements.

The CE has the advantage of a bright donut, but has dark or poor tint areas including in the center of the spot, beyond the donut, and beyond the spill. The SSC is better balanced, but in a throw test may not do as well. They are about the same on a ceiling bounce test.

The SSC I would rather have for indoor work or for walking due to it's larger diameter spill. The CE I would rather have for looking for critters in the woods with it's bright warm donut. I don't look for critters in the woods, so....

A quick question EngrPaul:

I think that the standard L0D with the SSC mod, is not quite as bright as the L0D-CE
I know that the reflector in the standard L0D gives a wider flood than the L0D-CE, but even accounting for this does the circuit in the L0D-CE give more current to the LED.
So would a L0D-CE modded to SSC give more output than a standard L0D modded to SSC

Thanks

 

[mpc]

Okay - thanks for the info engrpaul.

But..... I am convinced that the L0D-SSC is not as bright as the L0D-CE :laughing: although it is a very worthwhile mod if you have a standard L0D.

A couple of things I have thought of. I did accidentally strip a bit of the wire off the negative wire when levering off the Lux III . I did engage the the circuit without the LED in place - I know this can instakill some boost circuits. I did use a very oxidised soldering iron - hence I had to use the balance a blob on the end of the tip to get good heat transfer. Also I believe there is still a bit of a lottery on Vf values. The difference in brightness is not massive - but is noticable. Could any of the mentioned items have affected the SSC emitter and reduced its brightness. Thanks Matt

Oh - and sorry to pester with questions

 

[Mike abcd]

Here's my beamshots:
...
L0D Modded to USW0H, using .015" copper shim

I've used the .030" copper disc from the SS on other SSC mods. Does a thinner shim work better in general or is there a particular reason in the L0x? Do you make the .015" ones yourself or is there a source for them ready made?

I just found out that I can open my L0P SE without any tools so it's definitely getting modded.

Mike

 

[EngrPaul]

I use(d) a .015" shim in the AAA lights because it allows the bezel to be turned all the way down to the mid-section without a gap and be properly in focus.

 

[Vinnyp]

Sorry to butt in but can an L0d modded with a seoul work with a 10440?

 

[nanotech17]

I use my modded LOD SE SSC with 10440 with no problem.
But i use hi mode not more than 2 minutes.

 

[2xTrinity]

The CE has the advantage of a bright donut, but has dark or poor tint areas including in the center of the spot, beyond the donut, and beyond the spill. The SSC is better balanced, but in a throw test may not do as well. They are about the same on a ceiling bounce test.

Interestingly, I have always suspected that the dark "ring" that is visible in the Image of the Cree is actually an optical illusion. I ended up loading up the image in photoshop, and comparing the "shade" of gray in the dark ring to the shade in the brighter spill. Apparently in reality, the "dark" region is actually lit up at almost the same intensity as the rest of the spill, but appears dark due to an optical illusion with the contrast between the center spot, and the yellow "ring" (image of the aluminum retaining ring).

"HOTSPOT" color
"DARK RING" color
"BRIGHT SPILL" color

This is probably why I notice the "Cree Ring" effect on a white wall, but not so much when using my L0D-CE, or Cree lights, outdoors or in real-world use (where the contrast is not really as detectable).

 

[Krit]

I have my mod L0P thread here,
http://www.trekkingthai.com/board/show.php?Category=trekking&forum=7&No=90617
Sorry, not in english but many pics.

 

[nanotech17]

imagine solitaire drop in with Luxeon Rebel :naughty: