fenix l1d/p2d series mod, how do you attach the emiter?

[timcodes]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me how to remove the old emitter and how to put the new one in?

I've remove the head already and want to put a q5 in it as opposed to the old cree p4.

1. how do you remove the old emmiter? use a small knife?
2. what kind of thermal compound are needed?
3. does the thermal compound have to be adhesive? since I already bought artic silver

Any info would be appriciated!

Please help.

Thanks!

 

[datiLED]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me how to remove the old emitter and how to put the new one in?

Yes. I just did a P2D Q5 mod.

I've remove the head already and want to put a q5 in it as opposed to the old cree p4.

Well, you are off to a good start!

1. how do you remove the old emmiter? use a small knife?

I used dental tools to scrape the adhesive off of the wires, and from around the emitter. Once I had the wires free of the adhesive, I pried the emitter off the pedestal with the dental tool. I unsoldered the wires, removed the LED and cleaned the area very well. Pay particular attention to the wires, as you do not want to damage them, or snap them off inside the head. ***Before you remove the emitter, make note of how it is oriented in the head. You will want to put it back in the same position so that the wires will reattach easily.

2. what kind of thermal compound are needed?

I used Arctic Alumina. It does not conduct electricity.

3. does the thermal compound have to be adhesive? since I already bought artic silver

I do not know about the Arctic Silver. I stopped using that when I began doing Seoul mods.

To attach the new Q5, mix a small batch of adhesive. (I recommend AA, but use what you feel comfortable with, and at your own risk.) Put a generous amount of AA on the clean pedestal, and goop it into the channel around the pedestal. Place the LED onto the pedestal in the same position as the original. Seat the LED into the AA. Rotate the LED back, and forth while pressing it down. Thread the reflector/lens part of the head onto the LED/bottom portion of the head and check for perfect centering of the LED. Adjust as necessary before the AA dries. You have less than 5 minutes, so work quickly. Before moving on, check to be sure that there is not continuity with the positive terminal of the LED and the head.

When the adhesive has completely cured, solder the wires to the LED. Use some paste flux and very thin solder to make the connections quickly. After testing the function of the light, mix another small batch of thermal adhesive and cover the leads. You could also use some Kapton tape on the back of the reflector to prevent a short to ground. put the light back together, and prepare to be amazed. The P2D that I upgraded with a WC tint Q5 had an average increase of 33% over the stock P4.

Good luck, and have fun!

datiLED

 

[timcodes]

Wow that was great, thanks for the response, but I have more questions!!!

I used Arctic Alumina. It does not conduct electricity.
I do not know about the Arctic Silver. I stopped using that when I began doing Seoul mods.

- artic silver is a non adhesive, it will not allow the LED to be attached to the round thing on the fenix head. I head though having this paste will distrubute the heat to the rest of the head



To attach the new Q5, mix a small batch of adhesive. (I recommend AA, but use what you feel comfortable with, and at your own risk.) Put a generous amount of AA on the clean pedestal, and goop it into the channel around the pedestal. Place the LED onto the pedestal in the same position as the original. Seat the LED into the AA. Rotate the LED back, and forth while pressing it down. Thread the reflector/lens part of the head onto the LED/bottom portion of the head and check for perfect centering of the LED. Adjust as necessary before the AA dries. You have less than 5 minutes, so work quickly. Before moving on, check to be sure that there is not continuity with the positive terminal of the LED and the head.

- if I assume I cannot use the artic silver, the adhesive will prevent the heat to be dissapated to the head of the led, which means it's not a good idea? What's an AA, is it thermal adhesive?

When the adhesive has completely cured, solder the wires to the LED. Use some paste flux and very thin solder to make the connections quickly. After testing the function of the light, mix another small batch of thermal adhesive and cover the leads. You could also use some Kapton tape on the back of the reflector to prevent a short to ground. put the light back together, and prepare to be amazed. The P2D that I upgraded with a WC tint Q5 had an average increase of 33% over the stock P4.

- when you say the adhesive must cover the leads, what do you mean?
why is it really needed?
- why do you use the kapton tape if I put the LED as before?

Thank you!!!!!

 

[datiLED]

Wow that was great, thanks for the response, but I have more questions!!!

- artic silver is a non adhesive, it will not allow the LED to be attached to the round thing on the fenix head. I head though having this paste will distrubute the heat to the rest of the head

The Arctic Silver that I used in the past was a two part adhesive. Yes, it does help to distribute the heat to the head of the light, while securing the LED in place. I would recommend getting some Arctic Alumina for LED mods.

- if I assume I cannot use the artic silver, the adhesive will prevent the heat to be dissapated to the head of the led, which means it's not a good idea? What's an AA, is it thermal adhesive?

Arctic Silver is a thermal adhesive, as is Arctic Alumina. But, Arctic Alumina Adhesive is a pure electrical insulator, neither electrically conductive nor capacitive. This is especially important when working with LED's.

- when you say the adhesive must cover the leads, what do you mean?
why is it really needed?
- why do you use the kapton tape if I put the LED as before?

The adhesive over the leads is probably not necessary. But, I am very cautious when working with other people's lights. I take extra care to avoid damage to the light, the driver, or the LED. Insulating the leads prevents any accidental shorts. The Kapton tape is further insurance against a short which could destroy the LED and/or the driver circuit.

I also take the time to check for continuity with the LED and the light. I do this several times during the reassembly process, and especially before testing it with batteries.

Take your time and pay attention to the details, and you will not have any problems.

datiLED

 

[bluecrow76]

Great suggestions/directions! I have an L2P with custom 123A body. Any reason why I couldn't do the same with this little light?