Fenix P3D Q5 -- disappointing output

[v8unleashed]

Forgive me if my lingo is not up to par ... flashlights are not my forte.

My dad just got a P3D with the Q5 bulb. I put in two brand new el cheapo batteries (off brand, 1300mah) and turned the light on the turbo setting ... and was severely disappointed ... to say the least.

I have surefires G2 and 6P with the 120 lumen bulbs, and either of them is as bright or brighter than this "215 lumen" light. Using identical batteries, of course.)

Could this just be a bad light? Or is stepping up to a (1500mah, is it?) battery going to make this thing perform the way it's supposed to? Or is there something else I'm not getting?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Patriot]

Welcome to CPF, V8!



The P3D Q5 should be noticeably brighter that the G2 or 6P while running on 2 x 3.0 volt primary, lithium batteries, provided that your perception of output is accurate. I don't say that in a demeaning way, because sometimes it's hard for experienced eyes judge overall output, especially when comparing incandescent light to LED light. Different mah batteries will have no bearing on it's maximum output level. If you purchased it from FenixStore or LightHound, they'll take good care of you to resolve any problem with your light. Your P61 lamp assemblies in your two Surefires will throw light very well, possibly even better than the Q5, but the Q5 should output more overall light with a larger hotspot and more side spill.

Good luck.

 

[WadeF]

G2 and 6P with 120 lumen bulbs may appear brighter because of their larger reflectors producing a brighter and tighter hot spot, which should out throw the P3D with ease. However, the P3D on Turbo should have more overall output, but it's more spread out in a larger hot spot, and brighter spill, as Patriot36 mentioned.

You can try going into a small room with a light ceiling and bounce the beams off the ceiling and try to see if one makes the room brighter than the other. You could also see if one has a brigher spill than the other.

The Fenix T1 would compete better with the G2 and 6P in the throw department.

 

[Patriot]

I just took my 6P with 120 lumen lamp and my P3D Q5 into the bathroom and did a ceiling bounce test. My Q5 produces quite a bit more overall output that the P61 lamp with a ceiling bounce. Now, when just shinning at a white wall and comparing the two beams next to each other it's really is hard to tell which is brighter because the P61 lamp throws better than both my P3D Q5 and P3D Rebel. So yes, it is hard for the brain to see the difference unless you know what to look for.

To do a ceiling bounce test take to two lights into a small room and turn them on one at a time while shining at the ceiling. When they're on, don't look at the ceiling but instead look at the floor, walls, or objects in the room. Alternate one light on while the other is off, back and forth to determine the relative difference in overall light output.

Explain to your dad that a good incandescent bulb will still throw farther than LEDs if the reflectors are of equal surface area and reflectivity.

Just out of curiousity, did your dad get the smooth reflector P3D or the textured?

 

[v8unleashed]

Thanks for the quick replies. It definitely could be the case that I'm looking for a brighter hot spot. First thing I'll do when I get home this evening is compare them side by side.

But, going just by my memory, this new light doesn't seem to light up a dark room noticeably better than the surefires.

I'm just kinda glad I the problem isn't the fact that I'm not using name brand batteries for several dollars a pop.

It's definitely a nice little light. I basically picked it because of battery life. 20 minutes on a surefire is way too "task-specific" for me.

 

[Patriot]

What kind of cheapie batteries are you using..just curious.



Wade, I just looked at your gallery. Holy Cow! I recognized many of them from your reviews but I saw others that I hadn't seen before. Very nice! :twothumbs

 

[v8unleashed]

Looks textured to me.

Batteries are "Titanium PowPower"...I got them @ $1 ea from www.amondotech.com back when it still existed.

 

[WadeF]

Using the cheap batteries isn't a good idea, especially in 2 cell lights. That's a good way to turn your lights into pipe bombs and you could be seriously injured, or worse.

When using 2-cells together they should be matched (same voltage), and they should be good quality batteries.

 

[v8unleashed]

Using the cheap batteries isn't a good idea, especially in 2 cell lights. That's a good way to turn your lights into pipe bombs and you could be seriously injured, or worse.

When using 2-cells together they should be matched (same voltage), and they should be good quality batteries.

You're gonna have to expound upon that one. :thinking: I've been using cheap batteries for years and still have all my fingers and toes.

 

[roymail]

Nothing wrong with Titanium CR123's. They working good for me. :wave:

 

[Hondo]

You're gonna have to expound upon that one. :thinking: I've been using cheap batteries for years and still have all my fingers and toes.

Wade is refering to a very real phenomenon in lithium primary batteries where one cell can drive the other to "vent with flame". It will find a way to open up almost any light when it happens. The most common way for this to occur is when a light is loaded with one fresh cell and one partially depleted cell. The only thing you may want to watch is that even though you have never used any of your cells, if they have been stored for a while, some of them can lose charge faster than they are supposed to, creating a mis-match situation. The most basic test for this is to use a simple volt meter to check that both cells are at the same voltage, within a couple of hundredths of a volt or so. Best is to use a tester like the ZTS tester which applies a load to the cells while testing, and is a more reliable measure of the actual capacity of the cells.

I have some 2-year old Titaniums in the shrink wrap, and I just checked them for voltage, and they range from 3.04 volts to 3.24 volts. Could be worse, but could be a lot better. These are destined for single cell lights, where the above scenario can't happen.

 

[NA8]

You're gonna have to expound upon that one. :thinking: I've been using cheap batteries for years and still have all my fingers and toes.

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/123burst.htm

Good expound, plus links to lots of threads of interest.

PS my old Brinkman Maxfire incan had a nice beam too. The P3D Q5 will run a little longer though

 

[Crenshaw]

These are destined for single cell lights, where the above scenario can't happen.

I remember reading about someone with a P2D that exploded...oo:


v8unleashed, while the P3D is not giving 215 out the front lumens, its definetly giveing at least 120 lumens,given a 40% output loss thru the lens etc,but thats absolute worst case scenario, and its very likley giving out more like 180. If the 120 lumen surefires seem to be brighter in the bounce test, i would contact fenix about it. That said, if youre new to LEDS, it might be because your perception of the incan colour vs LED color is abit skewed. If thats the case, give it time.

oh, and if flashlights are not youre forte, they soon may very well be.
:thumbsup:
Crenshaw

 

[Hondo]

I remember reading about someone with a P2D that exploded...oo:

Quite true, although that had to be from a different mechanism causing the thermal runaway. The most common, repeatable scenario is one good cell driving current into a bad cell, and that mechanism is removed completely with the single cell application, hence one known instance vs a whole bunch in multi-cell lights.

 

[WadeF]

You're gonna have to expound upon that one. :thinking: I've been using cheap batteries for years and still have all my fingers and toes.

Looks like others have done this for me. While batteries going BOOM is pretty rare, we wouldn't be responsible flashaholics if we didn't warn other new flashaholics about this possibility, and the chances for a BOOM are greater when using cheap, no-name cells.

 

[WadeF]

v8unleashed, while the P3D is not giving 215 out the front lumens, its definetly giveing at least 120 lumens,given a 40% output loss thru the lens etc,but thats absolute worst case scenario, and its very likley giving out more like 180.

I believe Chevrofreak measured 200-205 out the front lumens with his P3D Q5 in his calibrated home made integrating sphere. Of course it's no an official reading, but he seems to have a pretty good set up.