Fenix T-1 From a Tactical Perspective w/Outdoor Beamshots (GreenLED Review Added)

[NoFair]

NoFair, I didn't mean to imply the second mode was inherently bad. Lower light is definitely useful; it's the switching between modes that's problematic. The problem I found is that it's virtually impossible to switch between modes once a gun is out. From that perspective, having 2 modes doesn't add much to the light (although I recognize it's a useful feature to have to perform other tasks).

I think we more or less agree, but I actually think it is kind of nice that it is difficult to change modes while using the gun. This because the chance of it happening by mistake is much smaller. That is one of the cons with the SF U2 as a tac light, although it happens very rarely (at least with me). Have you tried some of the drills using a U2?

I was thinking of the low mode as something one uses while the gun is in it's holster.

Sverre

PS! Thanks again for the lanyard you made for me a while ago:thumbsup:

 

[1 what]

Thanks Chaps, great reviews!
Even though the only "bad guys" I see thesedays are the local dogs that crap on my footpath I agree re the grip (can only imagine what it is like with gloves) and clip issues. But a very nice light for the price. I must admit I like the solid feel as it reminds me of the early Inovas. Can't wait to stress the electronics if 4Sevens agrees.

 

[greenLED]

I see what you're saying. Trouble is, if you keep the light on "low", you won't be able to switch it to anything else once your other hand is busy. Granted the T1's "low" is pretty high anyway, so it's not going to be a huge deal anyway. Se, we we agree more than less.

NP on the lanyard!

I think we more or less agree, but I actually think it is kind of nice that it is difficult to change modes while using the gun. This because the chance of it happening by mistake is much smaller. That is one of the cons with the SF U2 as a tac light, although it happens very rarely (at least with me). Have you tried some of the drills using a U2?

I was thinking of the low mode as something one uses while the gun is in it's holster.

Sverre

PS! Thanks again for the lanyard you made for me a while ago:thumbsup:

 

[greenLED]

as for the switch failing to work, is that just after a few times on/off, or are you having to cycle it pretty fast? I noticed it wouldn't turn on sometimes, but it was only if I went On/off multiple times, pretty rapidly, say 3-4times per second and on the 3rd or 4th click.

From what you're saying, sounds like the switch was acting up before I got to use the light. I must've missed the malfunction during class then, probably because I tend to keep the switch button depressed when I want the light on (gross motor skill, muscle memory for activating twisties).

A replacement switch is on the way, so no worries.

 

[greenLED]

I've also been thinking about the issue I encountered while using the T1 behind cover and while clearing structures. I have to take a few beam area measurements and compare against other lights and will post my results later.

OK, so what I did was to calculate the beam area of different lights to compare them to the T1. I shone the lights 1m away from the wall, measured the diameter and from there calculated the area.

As you can see from the following numbers (units are m2 - no apologies to metric-impaired folks), :nana: the T1 actually has relatively tight beam (which we knew already):

PD-S 0.88
U2 0.99
T1 1.13
L1D 1.13
Gladius 1.33
GL3 2.84
A2 3.46
e2e 7.07

Obviously, with the T1 a *whole* lot of light is being distributed across a relatively small area and that's the reason why we were getting so much backlighting against walls and other cover objects the other night.

I wish I had a light meter to determine just how much more light is in the corona of the T1 compared to other lights. Maybe using the low mode would provide brightness more or less equivalent to other lights commonly used to clear structures?

So, nwo I'm not really sure the T1 is "too bright" for clearing rooms. Mainly because I don't know what the "right" brightness might be but also because I think, with the proper techniques or using the low mode, the effect of backlighting can be minimized to some extent. :shrug:


For reference, I cleared "the house" once using my e2e and I felt that was enough light to clearly see around me (the walls in "the house" were black) and to engage the threats I encountered.

 

[GBone]

Thank you for all of the wonderful information!

 

[flashy bazook]

OK, finally managed to snag a T1 and play with it. My first impressions, especially on some of the "issues" some here have noted:

--The clip manages to be both sturdy and pliable. I don't think there should be big problems with scratching, after all HA III is supposed to be pretty scratch resistant. I've pulled it up a bit a few times, which also has reduced the friction. Finally, you can actually hold up the clip as you use your hands to twist the bezel (or even use the clip to get some leverage), preventing any contact between the clip and the body of the flashlight as you twist the bezel. There is also duct tape one could put around the clip to eliminate any remaining doubts.

--The light is about as large as I expected, but lighter than I feared. No problem even in fitting into a front jeans' pocket.

--The holster is great, very good way to carry the T1 around.

--No problems pushing in the back switch with a thumb, although to push it in all the way (ie, engage the switch to the permanent "on" position) you may need to push more with the tip of the thumb at a slight angle (rather than with the joint part of the thumb and completely at a vertical position relative to the flashlight). I suppose if you had a huge thumb it might be more of an issue, for me the space between the angled standing parts is sufficient.

--Can't comment on whether the knurling is problematic, as it was dry here and I happened not to be bleeding while handling the flashlight. But if this were a big problem, one could attach some kind of tape to increase friction. The clip also helps in this, if one uses a hand hold around the clip.

Of course, Fenix should offer extra options to reduce even any small remaining issues: a different (non-tailstanding) switch component, and a non-clip version (I read that a non-clip version already exists and will be on sale soon).

But other than these "issues" the flashlight itself is pretty amazingly great in terms of output and throw, I've been going around with it in the dark and flashing things in a kind of happy stupor, kind of refusing to believe I could be getting so much output with such long runtimes in such a nice package. I especially liked putting some light at the top of tall trees 50 or more yards away and getting a nice large round spot of light there.

Unfortunately, the squirrels were hiding at the time, it would have been fun to see them react to the light!

 

[woodrow]

Mike at PTS has (or did this morning) them in stock. I cannot wait to get mine Friday. Thanks for everyone's imput. I also bought a tough chain so I could swing it around and use it to its full tactical ability.

 

[flashy bazook]

Mike at PTS has (or did this morning) them in stock. I cannot wait to get mine Friday. Thanks for everyone's imput. I also bought a tough chain so I could swing it around and use it to its full tactical ability.

:laughing::laughing::laughing: Love the idea with the chain!

Chain three T1s together and you could even have a functioning bola!

 

[greenLED]

Just wanted to update this with some pics showing the condition of the light after we were done with the class:




Those pics are of the largest scratches. As you can see, they are minor (<2mm).

The tailcap flares got kinda squished after the light was tossed across a room and it hit the concrete floor:




It's seen "one or two" more drops since, and it's looking a lot prettier now.

 

[Crenshaw]

you know, if fenix dropped the tail prongs, or at least made a tailcap option that didnt have them, and dropped the loctite, we could solve most of the other stuff on our own..

Crenshaw

 

[woodrow]

After reading all the abuse tests, I really like the tail prongs. The loctite could go though. Plus, I would pay pretty decent money for a Titanium version.

 

[JasonSw2]

On the same train of thought as ergonomics of using this light while manipulating a pistol, does it fit in the various light-clamps to attach the light to an accessory rail of a weapon, such as an M4? Does that silly non-removable clip once again get in the way?

Most of these light-clamp products state compatibility with various SureFire models as well as some other brands. Fenix is generally absent from these compatibility lists I might point out.

Check these links for examples:
(Not advertising for these products, merely serving as examples)

http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Categories.bok?category=Light+/+Laser+Mounts

The Fenix T1 quite clearly has more than adequate light-generation capabilities and runtimes to play in the tactical lighting arena. I haven't hear anyone argue that point thus far.

What seems the be the problem is a simple matter of ergonomics and
product tuning. The Fenix T2 Tactical Weapons Light (I just made that up, so don't bother beating your friendly neighborhood Fenix rep up about it) based on that same emitter and high quality manufacturing process could take a very nice bite out of SureFire's dominance in this arena.

-JasonSw2

 

[Crenshaw]

After reading all the abuse tests, I really like the tail prongs. The loctite could go though. Plus, I would pay pretty decent money for a Titanium version.

oh god not ANOTHER ti wish...:nana:

Crenshaw

 

[paulr]

I would have thought a tactical light should absolutely NOT have any GITD, to avoid signalling your location in the dark.

Also, this light has a tight beam. I'm clueless about tactical use myself but I thought Surefire had worked out that tactical lights should have wider beams. All Surefires except Turboheads are relatively floody compared to the T1. When Surefire wants throw they tend to just build a more powerful light, like the M6.

Streamlight has the Nightfighter series that has a grip ring, so obviously there are ways around this patent stuff.

The T1 just seems kind of nuts to me. It weighs 150 grams compared with 50 grams for the P3D, which has a similar battery config and similar led. What are those extra 3 ounces of metal doing?

All in all this seems like another marketroid designed light.

 

[woodrow]

I am no longer in the "guns required carry" business as I used to be, and I think the old SF 6p that I used to carry when I was is more than adequate for that type of a job....but that being said....

The T1 is a great tactical light. Better than a 6p in my humble opinion. First, if going from room to room with white walls and tight spaces...you can simply switch it to low, and have more than enough light for target identification without blinding yourself from the reflection that high mode produces. You do have to practice momentary use with the light, because it is easy to click it on until you develop muscle memory for the preasure needed for momentary only light.

Secondly, the light makes a good impact weapon with either end of the light.

The switch cannot be seen when the light is held in your hand...and it has flecks that barely glow...not like a LP glow in the dark switch.

When you need more light, the light is bright....without a narrow spot of light like the led thrower lights.

Lastly, if you drop it, you are not going to break a bulb. I always tried to discipline myself to carry a spare bulb with my 6p. 99% of the time I did. Once I did not...and knocked the light off a low file cabinet onto industrial carpet. The bulb blew and my spare was at home.

Most lights will work just fine and dandy for tactical lights if pressed into that kind of duty. The T1 is no exception to that rule, and does so better than many others. Indoors, I would leave it set to low, but having the high option is nice.

 

[gilly]

After reading all the abuse tests, I really like the tail prongs. The loctite could go though. Plus, I would pay pretty decent money for a Titanium version.

Woodrow - could you expound a bit on why you like the tail prongs?

Most excellent job on these reviews! I'm holding off on getting a T-1 to see what improvements they have in the works.

 

[greenLED]

First, if going from room to room with white walls and tight spaces...you can simply switch it to low, and have more than enough light for target identification without blinding yourself from the reflection that high mode produces. You do have to practice momentary use with the light, because it is easy to click it on until you develop muscle memory for the preasure needed for momentary only light.

Woodrow, I've been thinking about this same issue for a while, and I sort of agree with your point about low and high. "Low" is more than adequate for indoor clearing, and high would be great for outdoor, long-range threat identification. The part I'm still not convinced is with the ease of switching between levels.

I have trouble switching modes with to empty hands; I couldn't do it with a gun out. What people could do is to keep the light on "low" all the time. As I've mentioned before, the T1 is so bright that "low" is still brighter than other lights out there and plenty useful for almost all tasks. What I wouldn't want to do is get caught in a situation where I need to change modes "on the fly" - that's just not going to work easily, at least for me.


...and, yes, practicing momentary on is a good thing. Actually, after this class, I'm liking momentary switches even more than clickies. With momentary switches there's no possibility of accidentally keeping the light on while moving or manipulating a gun. In addition, if you drop the light, you don't have to worry about it lighting you up by accident. You can also forget about immediately recovering it, but that's why people carry backup lights, right?

 

[woodrow]

gilly, I like the tail prongs for 3 reasons. 1. it protects the switch in a fall, and the switch is always the weakest part of a light. So I am willing to learn to work around them. 2. It gives the light a nice reverse strike option either for people, cats (j/k ) or windows etc. 3. When going biscuit hunting at night, I can set the light on the counter with the beam pointing at the ceiling. On low it gives the perfect light for kitchen illumination without waking the whole house .

GreenLED, you have a very good point. I think you have to choose which level of light you will be using before hand. Although you could always take a second to change levels from cover. I really feel low is more than bright enough for 98% of situations in white walled homes or offices. With high being great for warehouses, nightclubs and castle basements. I do wish the switch was set up to hit momentary illumination a little earlier in the press, but I believe it still has merits over using the SF lights with Q5 drop ins. They are just too bright (for me) in many indoor situations. Just my .02 though. There are I am sure people who do dangerous stuff like this every day. I fortunately do not.

 

[gilly]

Woodrow - thanks for the details. Well put. Although you may be only one of a few that like the tail prongs, you state your case eloquently. I have yet to purchase a T-1 but will likely do so soon. I happen to be an individual who uses these lights for business on a daily basis (Trooper and SWAT officer) and can say that I have even used my Fenix L2D CE (not the Q5 or RB100 versions) on motor vehicle stops. The step down (one lower than turbo) was plenty bright enough to illuminate the interior of a car. My partner (we ride together on nights) was duly impressed with the little 2 X AA light. Along those lines, I would agree that the T-1's low mode will be bright enough for most room clearing ops. Many of my fellow SWAT officers still use older technology lights on their weapons - you'd be shocked how weak some are! A majority of our team has only 1W luxeon lights on their M-4s (which were of course "cutting edge" when they came out 2-3 years back....)