First SSC P4 Maglite

[JamisonM]

I've got a 4D maglite that's sitting around doing nothing. I've already done a simple direct drive 3D maglite/P7 build so now I thought I'd try my hand at doing something a little bit different with a micropuck and SSC P4. My only problem now is understanding how to wire the micropuck for a buck configuration. When I look at this picture showing how it's to be wired, I only just understand it. To help myself, I created the below picture.

I'm guessing this is how the micropuck should be wired. Is this right? How can the LED or micropuck have two wires soldered at the same point? How can power arrive and exit the same point at the same time? My next best guess is that the orange wire is actually unused. I'm scratching my head over this one and any help would be appreciated greatly.

 

[Mr_Light]

My understanding is the MicroPuck will just act as a resistor until the Vin comes down to the Vf of the LED. This seems like a waste of a MicroPuck.
I have had good luck in this setup with the following DX driver (if you can wait a while for delivery).

3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board for Cree and SSC LEDs (4-pack) Price: $6.97
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

 

[Norm]

Look here 2009 MicroPuck

Input Voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0VDC
Output Current, 2009A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350mA1
Output Current, 2009-HI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400mA1
Operating Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -40-+85°C
Storage Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -40-+125°C

Looks like it is a boost driver, as Mr Light said you would be much better off with one of the drivers from the Chinese stores.
You probably need 750 to 1000mA to keep you happy.
Norm

 

[JamisonM]

Look here 2009 MicroPuck
Looks like it is a boost driver, as Mr Light said you would be much better off with one of the drivers from the Chinese stores.
You probably need 750 to 1000mA to keep you happy.
Norm

Supposedly, a micropuck can also be used in a buck configuration as well as several other configurations. See here. That's what I'm asking about. I understand that it won't be crazy bright, but I'm not shooting for that, plus it'll have a longer runtime than if I were to drive a P4 at those levels. It'll be a good loaner as well as nice gifts for those who still think a stock maglite is nice.

 

[LukeA]

What about a bucktoot?

I don't know though, it needs 1.5V overhead and at least 5Vin.

 

[JamisonM]

What about a bucktoot?

I don't know though, it needs 1.5V overhead and at least 5Vin.

That's what a I was thinking. 5V is a bit high.

 

[Norm]

See here.

Your wiring looks right by that diagram Jason.
Norm

 

[JamisonM]

Your wiring looks right by that diagram Jason.
Norm

I'm glade to hear that. Do you mind me asking how this works? How can there be two wires soldered at the exact same location? I just don't get it. How is the orange wire being used? Why isn't there just a single wire coming from the switch to the + leg of the LED?

 

[LukeA]

That's what a I was thinking. 5V is a bit high.

Somehow it escaped me that this is a 4D. (Most of my Mag mods are 3D, and you mentioned a 3D mod, so I guess I was in 3D mode) In that case, 5V for a bucktoot shouldn't be hard to come by.

 

[Norm]

Jason the circuit needs to see both Pos and Neg, not an unusual arrangement look here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2402623&postcount=1
All the control is on the neg side Pos needs to be common to both the LED and the circuit.
Norm

 

[JamisonM]

Thanks guys. Would any of you mind me asking for tips soldering wire to an LEDs legs? I just got done with my second P7 build and it seemed harder this go around then it was the first.

 

[SafetyBob]

Yes, I agree your diagram looks good. However, for future reference print this out or save it to your computer:

http://www.ledsupply.com/docs/MicroPuck-Applications.pdf

Just built last week two 4 D M@gs with this setup. The Cree Q5 I did actual testing on lasted 72 hours non stop and still had very usable light. I was advised to stop before completely running it dead for fear of leaking cells. I used brand new Duracell batteries for testing. I was amazed.

I prefer using Seoul P4 LED's for this project. They simply work better in a M@glight. Try putting just a little bit of sputter on the reflector to give it just a bit more spill than just a big hot spot. Particualarly if you know the light will be used indoors. If I was going to use it outdoors, I would prefer the max throw possible and that would be with a clean, shiny standard reflector.

Make sure you get the SHO version of the Micropuck if you didn't get them yet. Plenty of brightness there....

Bob E.

 

[VegasF6]

Thanks guys. Would any of you mind me asking for tips soldering wire to an LEDs legs? I just got done with my second P7 build and it seemed harder this go around then it was the first.

The usual tips around here are use 60/40 lead solder, flux, pre-tin, a good iron, etc. Those can be found pretty easy by searching.

2 things I personally have run across, and these are just my opinion, is I now only use shiny stranded copper wire. The silicone wire that comes with the boards you buy, or a some connectors I have bought, is much harder for me to solder. The other is, I was always afraid of getting the led too hot, I see a lot of warnings about it. Well, I was just being too cautious and after having an emitter lead come loose, I started cranking my iron up to 550 and I leave it on the pre-tinned wire, which in turn is resting on the pre-tinned leg of the emitter for probably a good 15-20 seconds, or at least enough for the solder to really flow. So far, I haven't noticed any diminished output, so I must be doing it right.
But, I always attach my emitter to the heatsink first, and the last thing I do is solder the leads. Lately I have been thinking I should pass the leads up through the heatsink, solder to the led, and then attach it. If you are doing it that way, I am sure you won't need as much time to heat it.

Also, I am using a adjustable soldering station that gets pretty good heat, if you have a small iron, I think I have seen people suggest a 30 watt.

Anyhow, get good and comfortable, try not to do it in an awkward position. If you have enough hands, and you never seem to, you want to apply pressure against the wire until it sinks into the solder on the emitter, and then immediately pull the iron away, but you need the wire to stay in place not bounce right off again. Blow on the hot solder and in just a few seconds you wil have a good connection.

And, some people don't like it, but I am running most of my ssc p4 mag builds with amc7135x3 boards. 3 cells alkaline, or 4 cells nimh. If possible, heatsink the chips as well, especially if approaching 5 volts or better.

Now if only I could master the ancient mysterious art of sputtering

 

[JamisonM]

Anyhow, get good and comfortable, try not to do it in an awkward position. If you have enough hands, and you never seem to, you want to apply pressure against the wire until it sinks into the solder on the emitter, and then immediately pull the iron away, but you need the wire to stay in place not bounce right off again. Blow on the hot solder and in just a few seconds you wil have a good connection.

One of the hardest things to me was getting the wire to stay in place while I soldered it to the LEDs legs. I was using 24awg wire and it's almost as big as the LEDs legs if not just a bit bigger. My first time I wrapped it around each set of legs to keep it in place. It didn't look great when I was done, but the wire stayed didn't move. I found out that if I wasn't careful I could bend the LEDs legs. Next time, I figure I'll wrap the wire around just one legs from each set. Something I just though of while writing this reply; maybe I could wrap the wire around piece of steel or some other material that is stiff and has the same shape is the two legs. Once I got the wrap how I'd want it, all I'd have to do is tin, move the wrapped wire onto the LEDs legs and then solder in place. I'll have to try that.