Flood of the Ugly Light, test of the W200 and other thoughts!

[gcbryan]

Tonight was the 4th dive of the "ugly" light. I guess Locktite must last for 4 dives. I've never been able to move the bezel at all but at the end of the dive tonight it was freely rotating and the light was still on but flooded (salt water unfortunately).

The bezel is ridiculous as it only has about 4 threads. The board is fried so the magnetic switch does nothing. I'm returning the light. Hopefully I'll get a replacement. If so I'm using epoxy on the threads and some silicone sealant between the bezel and glass lens.

I don't have a dremel tool but for anyone who knows can something like that be used to file off the external heat fins on the ugly light?

I tried out the W200 on the dive tonight. That light is like a laser. It wouldn't make much of a primary light but it's got throw. Of course it turned itself on at 30 meters. This is one reason I hate twisting head lights but at least it didn't flood.

I am starting to agree with Packhorse more and more regarding a MC-E as a dive light. I like them and the central beam is good but the spill is just too wide. It's distracting. I'd like to see something as bright as the central beam of the MC-E and the angle is about right also but I'd like much less spill.

I do like magnetic switches, twisting is second best with tail twisting preferable to head twisting.

Why is it so hard for these light manufacturers to come up with a decent dive light?

 

[Packhorse]

Sorry to hear about the leak.

I wouldnt cut the heat sinks off. It will expose the aluminium. Actually its not that big of a deal. But you should do it on a lathe for best results.

If you think the W200 is laser like try the W300. It has a much tighter hot spot and smaller spill area.

Twist switches are simple. Simple is good. But they do tend to turn on under pressure if you dont turned them off far enough. If you have one for long enough you will soon remember " one twist to turn it off plus one twist to keep it off".

As for your last question.... $$$$

 

[gcbryan]

Sorry to hear about the leak.

I wouldnt cut the heat sinks off. It will expose the aluminium. Actually its not that big of a deal. But you should do it on a lathe for best results.

If you think the W200 is laser like try the W300. It has a much tighter hot spot and smaller spill area.

Twist switches are simple. Simple is good. But they do tend to turn on under pressure if you dont turned them off far enough. If you have one for long enough you will soon remember " one twist to turn it off plus one twist to keep it off".

As for your last question.... $$$$

I'm sure the answer to most everything is $$$ to one degree or another but in the case of the ugly light it wouldn't have been hard to make it the pretty light and the doesn't flood light.

My $16 light has a better design.

What emitter has a central spot the size of the MC-E with only a little spill?

The W200 has no spill and too tight a central beam (for a primary light). It's fine for a backup.

Isn't there any way to use a MC-E in a different reflector where you can block some of the spill and direct it to the central beam?

It's still a good light. It beats a 10W HID in usefulness but it would be nice just to reduce the spill a bit.

 

[Goldigger]

I've been looking at some of the SST-50 or 90 led mods, i was wondering what they would be like for a dive light.
The only think that concerns me is the amps they need..
But there are some good looking beam shots knocking about..

Some beam shots here of the SST-50
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=244826

 

[Packhorse]

I have a couple on '90's on order and have started on a build. Watch this space.

 

[Dennis]

Geez that sucks... Even after loctite? Did you use blue or red? I cleaned the few threads very thoroughly and used a lot of blue loctite paste on mine, we'll see how it holds up.

I just need it to hold up until better lights come out...

If none do, this is actually a pretty nice light for not a bad price. It has 3 CREE P4 LED's and uses 3 18650 LiIon batteries. If the price was this low a few months ago and I knew then what I know now, I would probably have bought a couple of these instead of the "ugly light".


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...00_Supernova_Wide_Angle_Waterproof_Torch.html

http://www.adorama.com/UWINSN5000.html?searchinfo=supernova

 

[Goldigger]

Only problem with that Intova Supernova is the wide beam.. more suited for their cameras i reckon..

 

[gav6280]

Only problem with that Intova Supernova is the wide beam.. more suited for their cameras i reckon..

And the price for lumens.

 

[gcbryan]

Plus it draws 5 amps!

Dennis, I wasn't using Locktite. I initially thought it must have had Locktite on it since it was so tight.

There's some helpful advice on another forum. I was able to clean the electronic up and it's working now. I clipped the internal spring one coil as well to help with the o-ring compression.

 

[Packhorse]

Intova is a nice light. Except its a bit wide for my likeing and too narrow for video/photos.
Probably a good high viz dive light. ( as long as you remember to put the plug back in after charging).

 

[whitenoise]

Why is it so hard for these light manufacturers to come up with a decent dive light?

I agree, thats why I came here!

Sorry to hear about your flood. For some reason everytime someone mentions "the ugly light" it does make me smile

 

[gcbryan]

I think the name is funny too. That's why I use it. I actually like the name and the light.

It's working now so it's also in some way a very robust light!

I agree, thats why I came here!

Sorry to hear about your flood. For some reason everytime someone mentions "the ugly light" it does make me smile