G&P stobe tailcap for Surefire 6P & G2

generic808

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For the life of me, I can't seem to find anything on this tailcap with the search function. Has anyone had any experience with this very inexpensive tailcap? I'd like a cheap strobe feature to mount to the back of my bike for my ocassional night rides. How does the strobe feature on this tailcap work? Is it a press on for high, and press again for strobe? Anyone? Thanks in advance.

G&P_STROBE_TAILCAP
 

ykb

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I bought one of these about a year ago but sold it soon afterwards, as it wasn't useful to me. Nicely machined though, and cheap too.

Iirc, the button activates the strobe mode, and twist-on for constant mode. I could hear a fast-clicking noise in time with the strobe.
 

FirstDsent

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I have one, and also the similar G&P tape switch for my weapon light. It is a forward clicky, not a twist-for-constant-on. If you press and release, it turns on. If you press and hold, it strobes. If it is on, press to turn off, or hold to strobe. It works very well and reliably on fresh batteries. There is a problem with it though. Once your (2) batteries drain down to around 5-5.5V, it is erratic, and unreliable and eventually won't work at all. Both of mine do this. For this reason, I added a 1-cell extension to my weapon light, and run it on 9V. No problems.

Bernie
 

generic808

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Thanks for the replies guys. I think I may go ahead and order one just because they are so cheap. So when in off or on position, I can activate strobe by holding down? Is there a way to have strobe on constantly, or is it only by holding down the switch?
 

fxstsb

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I have one, and also the similar G&P tape switch for my weapon light. It is a forward clicky, not a twist-for-constant-on. If you press and release, it turns on. If you press and hold, it strobes. If it is on, press to turn off, or hold to strobe. It works very well and reliably on fresh batteries. There is a problem with it though. Once your (2) batteries drain down to around 5-5.5V, it is erratic, and unreliable and eventually won't work at all. Both of mine do this. For this reason, I added a 1-cell extension to my weapon light, and run it on 9V. No problems.

Bernie

Even with 2 new cells mine flickered slightly. I use it on a 9v light only.
 

generic808

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I run two 3.6 RCR's so do you think I'll have the flickering problem? And can you have a constant strobe?
 

fxstsb

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I run two 3.6 RCR's so do you think I'll have the flickering problem? And can you have a constant strobe?
When the light was on steady there was flickering. When it was on strobe it strobed. In my opinion No but I don't use 2x3.6. I assume it will not flicker since the flicker so slight on 6v an non existany on 9v. Another thing I was using oune of those monster Bugout LEDs on 6v also. No constant strobe unless you mod the switch, now there is an idea!!!
 

wishywashy7

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Don't buy it. It is not durable. I managed to wreck mine in a week. The "clickie" under the rubber boot looks like a plastic springboard switch. It is very flimsy.

I have very rarely spoken badly about a product, but this one eats the cake. Hope this helps.:thumbsdow
 

flange938

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I found this worked well, but this switch is reported to drain batteries
even when turned off. in my 6P it seemed todo just that. May give it another chance in a 9 volt. What about the cheap E-Bay switches without strob ?
 

Wolfhound 9K

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I would highly recommend against this product because of it's lack of reliability. My first AI switch broke because a friend pressed the clickie button too hard - from then on I never relied on clickie switches for EDC lights. Also, it has some weird problems when the battery gets low.. when the batteries are too weak, the light will not stay on!

the manufacturing quality of the product itself is really nothing special... it is low quality, just like most cheaper G&P products. if you are using this for fun, then I would say go for it! it's cheap enough. but you couldn't pay me to EDC that G&P tailswitch because it's too unreliable for serious usage

edit: there is also no reliable lockout feature for this product
 
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lite brite

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I just bought one off fleabay...it broke 5 minutes after my unpacking it...I do however like the strike bezel I got with it. Now if the seller would only respond to my emails as to getting my $ back...
Steve
 

generic808

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Haha thaks for all the replies! I guess I'll steer clear of this product for now. Anyone have any suggestions on a "cheap" strobe tailcap? Does such a thing even exist?
 

stitch_paradox

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If you want a constant strobe function light, why not get an LED drop in with this feature instead? There's the Wolfeyes one that know. Click for on then click again for strobe, and its Q5 too. Just a suggestion.
 

generic808

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I thought about that option already, but I already have too many one-stage CREE drop-in's. I'd like a simple tailcap to take advantage of what I already have before forking over more dough. We all know how expensive this hobby can get!
 

Monocrom

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G&P does not have a good reputation for quality.... With the possible exception of their Scorpion model. I have a couple of their lights. (Should have saved my money).

The tailcap will very slowly drain the cells, if left on the light. (Even if the light isn't actually turned on). Unless you really need a strobe feature and plan on using the light on a regular basis, I don't think it's worth it.
 
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FirstDsent

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Well, ditto the broken springboard. I didn't mention it because I took mine apart and tried to mod another switch with it. I manhandled it a lot.

The weakness of this design, or any tailcap that integrates electronics, is that the switch is inherently less durable than a standard clicky. The actual switch in the AI tailcap is a small clicker-dome switch about 4mm square soldered to the integrated circuit. There is a plastic lever that takes the press from the button and reduces the throw and force to the clicker-dome switch. This is what breaks.

A standard clicky or reverse clicky is a spring loaded mechanical switch. A well made standard clicky can be very reliable.

Could this design be adapted to use an off-the-shelf reverse clicky like that used on a Nuwai Q3? You'd have to sandwich two boards to do it and match the traces.

My weaponlight with the AI tailcap uses a tape switch instead of the clicker dome, so I haven't experienced any problems with it on 9V. I'll be careful to watch for battery drain though -Thanks Flange938. A weapon light is a horrible application for a tailcap that drains batteries!

Bernie
 

DE73

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I was planning to give away this light but it doesn't work with a led module. With an incandescent lamp it works fine but with led drop in it behaves strange. Only strobe etc. The problem is the tal cap. Anyone that have modified the tail cap to remove the strobe? Or any suggestions for a very cheap replacement?
 

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DE73

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I was planning to give away this light but it doesn't work with a led module. With an incandescent lamp it works fine but with led drop in it behaves strange. Only strobe etc. The problem is the tal cap. Anyone that have modified the tail cap to remove the strobe? Or any suggestions for a very cheap replacement?
I replaced the G&P internals with leftover internals from an old Surefire Z41 tail cap. So now it works like an old Surefire Z41 that you have to twist for constant on. Ready do give away.
 

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