G2Z clickie and LED recommend

phxccw

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 24, 2009
Messages
41
I have a G2Z and I need a tailcap clickie. Is there one that matches the Nitrolon tan body? Also can anyone recommend a good cheap LED upgrade?


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Member Netkidz offered a super easy DIY kit to make your twisty into a clicky.
It works very well. He was selling them in the CPF Custom BST.

He might still be making them but I am unsure.

LED? Malkoff of some type! I'd go with an LL variant because it makes the least heat.
 
REVERSE! EEEEEWwwwwwwwwwwwww
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Hey as long as it works.


I have used my DX reverse clickies for about 8 months now and they work awesome with plenty of daily use. I use the P60 P7's, MC-E, M60, and P91.

These clickies just dont quit. I purchased about 10 of them and installed them in my friends and co-workers lights. It allows you to retain the stock look on you 6P and G2 lights and they just don't know when to quit:D

EDIT: 1 out of my 6 that I use did quit.:oops:, but it was due to 4.5A of current at the tail and it took a while at that.
 
I know. $$
It is the best drop-in to buy for a Surefire Nitrolon flashlight however.

Other drop-in's have a reduced lifespan because of heat generation and build up. The M60L is bright and has a good runtime. The M60LL is less bright but there is nearly no heat made and runtime is quite long. The M60 is too hot for your light. My overall favorite is the M60WL. It has a really great tint for using it outside.

You can also get more lumens out the front of your flashlight by buying an AR coated UCL lens from flashlightlens.com. They have a size guide on the site to make sure to get the right one.
 
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I ordered these too but the clickie is too thick to allow my g2 body screw into the G2 cap with the new clickie installed. Did you guys who bought these encounter the same problem?
Yep that is what I used fir my G2Z. Only thing is that it is a reverse clicky.
 
I ordered these too but the clickie is too thick to allow my g2 body screw into the G2 cap with the new clickie installed. Did you guys who bought these encounter the same problem?

I get the stock boot from the DX clickie and cut the center protruding rubber nipple in half. It will work 100%, if you have continued problems I can get a video tutorial for you tonight.

good luck,
Jose
 
Tried that and still not enough threads. I looked at my G2Z and the tail cap is completely different. In fact, I couldn't get the tailcap guts off the G2Z.

I get the stock boot from the DX clickie and cut the center protruding rubber nipple in half. It will work 100%, if you have continued problems I can get a video tutorial for you tonight.

good luck,
Jose
 
You have to take the black threaded ring out of the tailcap first. If you have done that and it still doesn't work then look at the threads and make sure they are 100% clean. If they are clean then we need pics to better help you along.
Perhaps DX has redesigned the clicky you ordered a bit and it is now not compatible.
 
Sounds like that maybe my problem. So how do you remove the black threaded ring?

You have to take the black threaded ring out of the tailcap first. If you have done that and it still doesn't work then look at the threads and make sure they are 100% clean. If they are clean then we need pics to better help you along.
Perhaps DX has redesigned the clicky you ordered a bit and it is now not compatible.
 
Sounds like that maybe my problem. So how do you remove the black threaded ring?


I just did another one yesterday and stuck needle nose pliers in the wedges to get a grip. Then turn counter clockwise. The needle nose pliers kept sliping, so I drilled two small holes in the black threaded ring so the needle nose plier wouldnt slip as I twisted. It was tought. I had to get a visegrip to hold the tailcap and stuck the needlenose pliers in the newly drilled holes and then it came out. In that past I did about 6 of these with no tools, but this one put up a good fight.
 
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